Drew_K

In anticipation of going to out of town events, I trailered my GT3 to a local autocross for a trial run. Tow vehicle is a 2013 F250 diesel and trailer is a 24 foot aluminum Intech; I also use an Equalizer hitch.

Loading the GT3 is a breeze with the remote control winch on the trailer. I installed Rennline tie downs and I HIGHLY recommend these. They seem very solid and work with the hook style straps or the clip type. My tie down method was to criss cross in the back using the rear Rennline hooks. I also strapped down one rear wheel going straight back as a backup. In front, I went straight back from the front Rennline tie downs and an additional strap on the front bumper tow hook.

The tie down process went fine but now I'm wondering if I should load the car rear end first instead? When driving to the event, I noticed that the trailer swayed a bit more than I expected. Not bad but it almost seemed worse than when the trailer is empty.

The tongue weight on my 4500 lb trailer, when empty, is 600 lbs, which is just about right (13%). I checked the tongue weight with the GT3 in the trailer and it was only 400 lbs, so the rear engine bias actually reduced the tongue weight. Granted, I haven't loaded up the trailer with my tools and other gear yet, which will add more weight to the front.

For the trip home, I pulled the GT3 way forward in the trailer and that brought the tongue weight back up to 600 lbs, but that's still low and it makes the space at the front of the trailer unusable. The trailer definitely pulled better like this though.

I'm going to load the car backwards next time and check the tongue weight again, but I noticed that everyone seems to load their 911's forward. I'm surprised I haven't read more stories about unstable trailering.

If I end up having to put the car in backwards, I'd like the ability to use my winch. Anyone know of a simple rear tow hook solution?

F1CrazyDriver

I have done both ways ( front end forward / back end forward )
I preferred the front end of the car facing forward. The back end forward felt twitchy to me. I used a 2007 F250 King Ranch w tow package, with trailing the handful of times i have done it.

tcsracing1

I gave up on the Rennline tow hooks.
I use an axle/wheel strap through each wheel and then rachet them down in a cris cross pattern.
Keep the weight even as possible over the trailer axles. Keep im mind the car is rear engine weight biased.
Trailex 8045.
Dodge ram 2500.

KaiB

Your tongue weight should be greater than 700 pounds. (10% min, pref 15%)

With your truck, I would prefer to see closer to 800. Let the poor truck do some work. I run mine at a shade over 1K; trailer, hitch and truck all dead level.

Do you have the Equalizer(TM) hitch set up according to the instructions included with it?

85Gold

Pull car further onto the trailer to increase tongue weight. Problem solved. If it is a Trailex then I believe you can move the axels rearward to add more tongue weight without having to pull the car all the way forward.

Peter

Drew_K

KaiB: Agreed - I'd like to get my tongue weight in the 800-1000 pound range.

85Gold: The problem with pulling the car all the way forward is that it takes up the space in the front of the trailer, where I plan to store stuff. Not a big deal on an open trailer but storage is a big reason why I got an enclosed. Appreciate the input though.

85Gold

Dyslexia didn't read the enclosed trailr part of the post. Once you load the front with tools and spare tires you should be fine.

Peter

allans

I have the same trailer and truck. I pull my car in forward with the "balance point" of the car centered between the dual trailer axels. I believe the balance point of the car is about 6-10" behind the the drivers door. Works very well. Allan

stujelly

I was going to say that. As for backwards if it is an open trailer, think about doing 70 backwards in your car. Not necessarily a good idea with a wing

DC640

no issue with alignment? somehow i fear that but technically, alignment shouldnt move at all with a little tug.

I just use the jack point hole and stick up a double J hook as tie down... Front, I have rennline tow hook thing...

drl

Wait - what? You place an open J-hook into the jackpoint hole?

GTEE3

I don't think you want to tow w/ a compressed suspension...better to tie down via the wheels, like the over the tire straps the Quality (Intercity, etc) car carriers use.
Preferably would like some wheel tow rings like the Cup cars

Reid55

A little more weight in the front will likely help but equally important is to maintain a level towing after you situate your weight. Tongue too high or too low will typically result in squirrely handling (including the dreaded white-knuckle fish-tailing experience). Set weight than adjust with height with proper hitch.