DIY Brake Calipers, Need Your Help
#1
DIY Brake Calipers, Need Your Help
Guys, I've decided to do some work on my front brake calipers which are from my 2011 GT3 with PCCB brakes. Most of the dust boots are shredded, and some of my yellow ceramic discs have fallen off. My question is specifically how do you get the old dust boots off? I may not even replace them, but I want to know how to remove them. Does the entire piston need to come out of the caliper to remove the dust boots. I DID FIND ONE RELATED DIY THREAD on the topic, but could really understand the process from the description. Thanks in advance for your help.
#2
Rennlist Member
I replaced a set of boots once on a M3
and my recollection is you need to remove the pistion. I think I hooked up an air compresser (w/ a rubber nozzle) to the fitting that accepts the brake hose line and blew out the piston. Once it is out, the boot can easily be removed/replaced. It is seated in some grooves. Getting the piston in straight took some time.
Of course, you will be bleeding the system for air once all back together.
Hope that helps.
Of course, you will be bleeding the system for air once all back together.
Hope that helps.
#3
YOU DO NOT NEED TO OR WANT TO REMOVE THE PISTONS! I wish I saw this thread earlier as I just replaced the dust boots on a set of 997 PCCB calipers this morning and could have taken some pictures. It's not a difficult job. You need to insert a sharpened pick between the dust boot and the body of the caliper and gently pry it out. Once the outside edge of the dust boot pops out you can grab it and pull the dust boot off. The inside edge of the dust boots fits in a groove underneath the ceramic insert. It obviously helps if the pistons are partially extended when it comes time to fitting the new dust boots. Use a lubricant when fitting the new dust boots and they will slide over the ceramic inserts easier.
#4
Absolutely perfect, followed your instruction and it worked perfectly. I think the reason I was confused is that the calipers were probably painted after the dust seals were installed, and I couldn't tell if they were actually part of the caliper. They protruded from the body of the caliper a bit, so I gently tapped on the outside of the dust boot ring with a very small screwdriver. Once they broke away from the caliper wall I was able to pull them right out. Thanks again!
#5
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There is another seal for brake fluid that will eventually need to be replaced if you get the brakes hot enough to shred the dust boots. For that, you need to pop out the pistons as matrog described, and then carefully pick out the seal from its recess in the cylinder wall. Lubricate with brake fluid to re-insert. I found that one of those pistol-grip gluing clamps is very useful for getting the piston back in place.
You can use the same clamp (or two) to help keep in place the pistons you don't want to come out. Use the minimum pressure you can get away with. It's kind of messy...
One more thing... I found it hard to obtain those inner seals. Porsche only had the dust boots. You can get them from GMG or StopTech.
Jon
You can use the same clamp (or two) to help keep in place the pistons you don't want to come out. Use the minimum pressure you can get away with. It's kind of messy...
One more thing... I found it hard to obtain those inner seals. Porsche only had the dust boots. You can get them from GMG or StopTech.
Jon
#6
Rennlist Member
The guys at Paragon Products can hook you up as well with the parts. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer. They are great to work with and verified all my supplied part numbers with their own catalogs prior to shipping.
#7
Be sure to reinstall the ceramic disks. If you track the car you will go through dust seals quickly - the heat destroys them and the ceramic disks will fall out when changing pads.
Re "ceramic disks or pucks" falling out - I found the solution in this thread post #27 - ordered the "spiders" from Orbit and have used them 3 years on GT3 and Cayman race car with GT3 front brakes - no more pucks falling out. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/g...caliper-2.html
Re "ceramic disks or pucks" falling out - I found the solution in this thread post #27 - ordered the "spiders" from Orbit and have used them 3 years on GT3 and Cayman race car with GT3 front brakes - no more pucks falling out. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/g...caliper-2.html
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#8
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Copying a very helpful email here from Zeckhausen for your reference. No affiliation, just excited to get the project started. This weekend actually.
Took this Youtube video as a reference:
-----------
Joost,
This should make it easy for you. Start here:
http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...8_774_436_2256
The front calipers have 28/30/32mm pistons, while the rear calipers have four 34mm pistons. So the kits listed at the link above are appropriate for your rebuild requirements. You need one kit per caliper.
When rebuilding calipers, many folks simply use brake fluid to lubricate the pressure seals. We suggest caliper assembly lube instead (not to be confused with caliper slide pin lube or engine assembly lube!) which is more slippery than brake fluid, making it easier to assemble the parts without tearing pressure seals. We carry the same fluid that Centric Parts uses for their caliper rebuilding process and that StopTech uses to assemble their big brake kits. It's available here:
http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...ducts_id=15352
Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Parts are in stock for same-day shipping.
Sincerely,
David Zeckhausen
President, Zeckhausen Racing
(800)222-8893 x1
www.zeckhausen.com
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Took this Youtube video as a reference:
-----------
Joost,
This should make it easy for you. Start here:
http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...8_774_436_2256
The front calipers have 28/30/32mm pistons, while the rear calipers have four 34mm pistons. So the kits listed at the link above are appropriate for your rebuild requirements. You need one kit per caliper.
When rebuilding calipers, many folks simply use brake fluid to lubricate the pressure seals. We suggest caliper assembly lube instead (not to be confused with caliper slide pin lube or engine assembly lube!) which is more slippery than brake fluid, making it easier to assemble the parts without tearing pressure seals. We carry the same fluid that Centric Parts uses for their caliper rebuilding process and that StopTech uses to assemble their big brake kits. It's available here:
http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...ducts_id=15352
Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Parts are in stock for same-day shipping.
Sincerely,
David Zeckhausen
President, Zeckhausen Racing
(800)222-8893 x1
www.zeckhausen.com
-----------
#9
Great video! I have purchased rebuild supplies from Zeckhausen for years - they have been very helpful and great to deal with.
One caution, video mentions using "grease" on seals, pistons and dust boots for assembly. Use only rubber friendly, silicone based lube or grease - often supplied with seal kits as in the video, or sold separately as Brake Assembly Lube. Petroleum based greases (axle grease) can cause the seals to deteriorate.
One caution, video mentions using "grease" on seals, pistons and dust boots for assembly. Use only rubber friendly, silicone based lube or grease - often supplied with seal kits as in the video, or sold separately as Brake Assembly Lube. Petroleum based greases (axle grease) can cause the seals to deteriorate.
#10
+1 on Dr. Zech, he hooked me up with some hi-temp boots and new inner seals. Vast depth of knowledge.