ShakeNBake

Can someone point me to a track alignment for the RS that is still workable on the street? I'll be putting toe links on, and figured I'd have the alignment adjusted since they have to do it anyways.

TIA

997gt3north

Use <SEARCH> function - type in <alignment>

mdrums

Tires, track, skill level/run group?

TRAKCAR

What Mike said ^^

ShakeNBake

Excellent advice [search] - I searched, and it's hard to find something specific to the RS. I'm somewhat familiar with alignments and suspension setup - but I was hoping someone has some art to apply.

Like I said, the car will be driven on the street, but is really, ultimately, the track car in the family. The only street driving is to and from the track, and maybe the odd weekend drive in the hill country.

I'm an AI instructor for PCA - but this is my first 911, so something a little forgiving and stable vs. sharp is probably the way to go. I'll grow into it - but I want to be educated with other experiences rather than using my own engineering logic. So far what I see is that the rear suspension has a good camber curve, so you can get away with lower camber (and a little positive toe to increase stability), but the fronts are typical struts with poor roll/camber coupling so you have to run a lot of negative camber to increase grip. Much like my old E46M3 (E90 is far superior in the camber curve regard).

ShakeNBake

(18" with R1s to begin with...but I will experiment)

TRAKCAR

OK I have not driven the R1's.

Assuming they are like R6, this is my setup for my daily driver. Only change I would make it tiny toe out front for dedicated track car:

Camber f -2.5
Camber r -2.5 I run -1.7 for RA1
Caster I kept stock, I don't need to rotate struts, but added pucks to move wheels forward so they barely touch fender liner.
Ride height is OEM -10 mm with factory rake. If you drive smooth tracks only you can lower more.

Sway bars full soft front and middle rear
Toe:
Zero front
2mm in each side rear.


I left everything identical between r6 and ra1 except rear camber...


Hope this helps.

Also have Motorsport LSD, cup lip and more wing angle with gurney flap. Fwiw..

997gt3north

Based on the above 3, I would put your alignment specs somewhere between full track and track / DE setup - going to assume we are NOT talking Mich Slicks alignment specs


Full track
-2.8 front camber with 1mm per side toe out
-2.3 rear camber with 2mm per side toe in
-10mm ride height with factory rake (personally I think rear should be dropped more to increase rear grip - others support this theory - some do not)

Combo track / DE setup
-2.3 front camber with zero toe
-1.7 rear camber with 2mm per side toe in
-stock ride height to 10mm lower


If getting up your driveway isn't an issue, I would use the Combo setup with the 10mm lower ride height. The above setup will work with R6s and PSS drive to the track tires and basically is a typical setup run by many with small variations.

Nick Wong

Your "full track" spec, plus the caster pucks for more caster, is basically what I have. Strangely enough, Ohlins actually specifies a lower ride height, measured fom the wheel fenders, but I found it virtually undrivable without scraping plastic in Chicago.

997gt3north

I run lower than -10mm but don't do too much street driving - plus, as I noted above, I have reduced the factory rake to lower the rear even more - but I run 19s which are generally taller than 18s that many use on the track - as an example, the spec 18" Hoosier that most seem to run basically lower the entire car by almost 1/2 an inch versus the 19" spec tires.

Nick Wong

Just an FYI, if you want to increase weight on one corner you have to lift it, not lower it. At least that's how it works for karts!

drdrank

Thanks. I think I had positive camber on mine. Oopps

ShakeNBake

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I've started to compile it here (feel free to edit) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...zY0WGZrZ3BHakE

Serge944

Correct. This is how I corner balanced my 996.