cwhota

I would appreciate input on the product
3 choice here around the same price

Albins 4.0 ( 8 32 )
Porsche oem 3.88 (9 35)
Guard 4.125 ( 8 33)

I 'd like to ear about the Albins
Thanks

On Pole

I had the Porsche Motorsport 4:00 R&P in my 996 and 997GT3s. If I had to do it again, re-gear 3-6th gear.

Here is some 996 GT3 info;

Option 1
Install existing 5th gear into 6th gear position and replace 3,4,5th with aftermarket gears.

Aftermarket gears are available in race finish; normal usage noise will be more audible than that of the stock Porsche street car gears. While 3-5 will sometimes exhibit a whine or hum, the 6th gear will remain quiet for top gear freeway driving and fuel saving cruising.

Re-Gearing Top Speed Chart
Gear MPH
6 171.8
5 146.3
4 121.9
3 101.1
2 79.6
1 45
$3900, includes parts and labor. May require shipping charges.


Option 2
Remove and replace 3.44:1 (31:9) stock ring and pinion with 4.00:1 (32:8) ring and pinion.

Replacing the ring and pinion of the GT3 transaxle with a 4:1 ratio unit retains the original gears and will not result in abnormal noise. Net effects are remarkably similar to changing and replacing transmission shaft gears with highly regarded reliability. TRG uses the Porsche Motorsports 996 RSR ring and pinion set for best quality.

Gear MPH
6 172.6
5 147.9
4 122
3 94.8
2 68.5
1 38.7
$4250 includes parts and labor. May require shipping charges.

For the best advise call Brain @ 513-484-2396

AudiOn19s

Marc, your car already has 4:1 in it right? Been in there for awhile though is it showing signs that it needs replaced?

mobonic

What would yeild faster acceleration?

4.125 R&P

or

Re-gear 3,4,5 with stock R&P

P.J.S.

Similar to on pole... 4.0 in my former 996-3
Did the whole whammy on my RS - 4.125 and 1st thru 4th gears revised

Another option that exists today and is worth considering IMHO if you are just going to do ring and pinion is the 3.89 ring and pinion out of the 3.8RS - this is a nice street/track compromise

Edit: the 4.125 from guard is a very nice piece

Mvez

I agree re-gearing is the most ideal, but the OEM 3.89 achieves almost the exact same top speeds as the re-gear you've outlined above. 4th gear I believe is a bit more flexible with a top speed of about 128ish with the R&P.

I can't help but feel the 4.0 and 4.1 is just too short (without a re-gear also) for most DE drivers, hence why the 3.89 is a nice plug and play option, probably overlooked by most of us with the 3.44. I have one waiting to be installed once my warranty expires next year.

FFaust

Yeah, it's showing signs

NJ-GT

3.44:1 stock R&P, place 5th into 6th, re-gear 3rd-4th-5th.

TRAKCAR

Same with RS?

NJ-GT

Similar, except that moving the 1.06 from 5th to 6th is too short for the RS on 335 RA1, the car would top at 157mph. Instead, use a 1:1 ratio for 6th, essentially re-gear 3rd through 6th.

Also, remember you use a 1" shorter tire, and you shift the Aero Beetle like a Diesel truck.

cfjan

Rad, you would be a good person to ask since you have a lot of experience w/ autoX.. the idea of re-gearing 3-5 and move 5 to 6 is good for track I believe to space all the gears closer, but the fact that you can't change the first 2 gears means the 2nd gear is still very tall for autoX use.. (unless you are lucky enough that the local autoX runs at a pretty large space) I think most of the time I am at 4-5k rpm in the 2nd gear.. I guess ideally both R&P + re-gear...

NJ-GT

For AutoX, the GT3 needs a short 2nd gear, so the the R&P is the best choice.

However, you need to consider the club, class and driving level to make this change. In SCCA AutoX, a change in R&P from 3.44 to 4.0 would move the car from Stock to Super Street Modified, a class that would require major changes in a GT3 to make it competitive, so it is better to stay with the 3.44:1 and run in Stock class. PCA and NASA AX are less punishing with the R&P upgrade.

In the 997 GT3 with the SCCA, moving to the 2010 GT3 RS R&P (3.89:1) gets the car classed in Super Street Prepared, where the car is competitive.

Re-gearing is always best, I went R&P because I wanted a 70mph 2nd gear and develop the car for SM2 (now called SSM).

The best mod is a new main shaft and new gears from 2nd through 6th, with the R&P that better matches the new gear set. This is expensive ($13k-$15k on parts, shipping, and labor).

cfjan

Thanks for the insight. I am just running the car at local PCA autoX, not really competing at SCCA or anything like that. Definitely not looking to spend $15k on a transmission mod.. !

TRAKCAR

Are you saying I shift so slow that I negate all advantage of regearing?
Just go for a 4.0 ?

TRAKCAR

That's only 10k off from shipping my motor to FVD to make it a 4.0...