Alignment specs
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
interesting that porsche has changed the rear camber setting from -2 to -1 40' according to a service document posted on rennteam. probably to reduce understeer.
#4
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What else did this service bulletin say?
Running more negative camber in the front and less in the rear? Isn't it more common to run more negative camber in the rear? Can someone explain this change to me?
Running more negative camber in the front and less in the rear? Isn't it more common to run more negative camber in the rear? Can someone explain this change to me?
#5
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Originally Posted by Unitah
What else did this service bulletin say?
Running more negative camber in the front and less in the rear? Isn't it more common to run more negative camber in the rear? Can someone explain this change to me?
Running more negative camber in the front and less in the rear? Isn't it more common to run more negative camber in the rear? Can someone explain this change to me?
For racing you run more camber in the front than rear..(almost) always.
Street cars need to understeer to be safer for the average user. This is not the optimal performance setup though.
Cheers
#6
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the service bulliten explains in details how to do the alignmnet. the specs are what was given in the manual. i think for the track setup porsche recommends -2/-2.5 front/rear. there was an old post here with detailed alignment specs.
#7
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Originally Posted by doc2s
the service bulliten explains in details how to do the alignmnet. the specs are what was given in the manual. i think for the track setup porsche recommends -2/-2.5 front/rear. there was an old post here with detailed alignment specs.
The recommended settings above are not a racing setup. For serious track driving I would go with -2.5 Fr and Rr. the same, these cars understeer, but it is about personal preferences and driving styles.
Trending Topics
#8
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
agreed.
this has been posted by pentium on rennteam. these are the street values. see the note at te end.
The following values relate to the empty weight, i.e. full fuel tank/fluid reservoirs, vehicle with tools, but without driver or additional weights.
· The toe-difference angle value is also influenced by the vehicle height. For this reason the measured result must be evaluated accordingly. No action is necessary in the case of small deviations from the toe-difference angle’s required value as long as the value to the right and left is almost the same.
Wheel alignment values
911 GT3/911 GT3 RS (997)
RoW/USA
Front axle
Toe unpressed (total)
+ 6' ± 2'
Toe difference angle at 20° lock
- 1° 50' ± 30'
Camber (with wheels in straight-ahead position)
- 1°20' ± 5'
max. difference, left to right
10'
Caster
8° ± 30'
max. difference, left to right
40'
Rear axle
Toe per wheel
+ 13' ± 2'
max. difference, left to right
5'
Camber 1)
- 1°40' ± 5' 1)
max. difference, left to right
10'
1) Altered camber value on the rear axle which is also valid retroactively (from start of production). Previous value: - 2° ± 5'.
this has been posted by pentium on rennteam. these are the street values. see the note at te end.
The following values relate to the empty weight, i.e. full fuel tank/fluid reservoirs, vehicle with tools, but without driver or additional weights.
· The toe-difference angle value is also influenced by the vehicle height. For this reason the measured result must be evaluated accordingly. No action is necessary in the case of small deviations from the toe-difference angle’s required value as long as the value to the right and left is almost the same.
Wheel alignment values
911 GT3/911 GT3 RS (997)
RoW/USA
Front axle
Toe unpressed (total)
+ 6' ± 2'
Toe difference angle at 20° lock
- 1° 50' ± 30'
Camber (with wheels in straight-ahead position)
- 1°20' ± 5'
max. difference, left to right
10'
Caster
8° ± 30'
max. difference, left to right
40'
Rear axle
Toe per wheel
+ 13' ± 2'
max. difference, left to right
5'
Camber 1)
- 1°40' ± 5' 1)
max. difference, left to right
10'
1) Altered camber value on the rear axle which is also valid retroactively (from start of production). Previous value: - 2° ± 5'.
#9
Hey Guys,
I just picked up my new GT3 today. After 50 kms it was already in the shop getting ready for the track. I took it to a very well respected shop in Toronto to have a baseline set-up put on it for the track. We were all shocked to learn that we couldn't get more than -2 in the front!!
This shop set-up my 996 GT3 previously and has experience with Cup versions of the GT3. That being said this was their first trip under the new 997 GT3.
Can someone help me out? Rightly or wrongly so I was under the impression that the 997 had more adjustability than the 996. I'm disappointed because I would prefer to run more camber up front.
I've been following this post and it doesn't seem that many people have them set up for the track yet. If you are a Porsche specialist with an opinion I will gladly hear from you as well.
All that said guys....after 200 kms the car seems very different from the 996. I wont offer my opinions yet as I haven't really DRIVEN the car but it sure is good lookin'
I just picked up my new GT3 today. After 50 kms it was already in the shop getting ready for the track. I took it to a very well respected shop in Toronto to have a baseline set-up put on it for the track. We were all shocked to learn that we couldn't get more than -2 in the front!!
This shop set-up my 996 GT3 previously and has experience with Cup versions of the GT3. That being said this was their first trip under the new 997 GT3.
Can someone help me out? Rightly or wrongly so I was under the impression that the 997 had more adjustability than the 996. I'm disappointed because I would prefer to run more camber up front.
I've been following this post and it doesn't seem that many people have them set up for the track yet. If you are a Porsche specialist with an opinion I will gladly hear from you as well.
All that said guys....after 200 kms the car seems very different from the 996. I wont offer my opinions yet as I haven't really DRIVEN the car but it sure is good lookin'
#10
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
There are some "washers" you need to buy and if you want aggressive camber then you need to rotate the struts. I think there was a thread discussing the washers, run a search, I am sure you will find more info.
#11
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are they "washers" or milled aluminum spacers? If they are the spacers you are talking about, they come in 1mm, 2mm, 5mm and 10mm increments (I think)...
#12
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
unitah,
are you planning a trip to the track any time soon?
+1 to what unitah said. go to http://www.carnewal-europe.com/main.htm and look under the suspension section for 996. you will see a picture of the camber shims. i was told that you could order through a delaer.
are you planning a trip to the track any time soon?
+1 to what unitah said. go to http://www.carnewal-europe.com/main.htm and look under the suspension section for 996. you will see a picture of the camber shims. i was told that you could order through a delaer.
#13
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Originally Posted by Unitah
Are they "washers" or milled aluminum spacers? If they are the spacers you are talking about, they come in 1mm, 2mm, 5mm and 10mm increments (I think)...
#14
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Set -3 in the front, nice. If you could get in there with a vernier caliper and figure out what thickness spacers (camber shims, whatever they are technically called), that would be great!
Now, I am a bit confused, what is the purpose of "turning the shocks"? I am assuming you mean rotating them 180 degrees? Does this achieve more offset, or camber, or what?
Yes, I have my first Autocross on April 1st. Then first track event April 14 and 15 at Pocono with MetroNY PCA. By then, I have to have the alignment done, full cage installed, motor mounts, LWFW / clutch, and hopefully get that pesky exhaust system off the car!!! hahaha Oh, and graphics package installed, don't want to forget that.......... we are a sick bunch..........
Now, I am a bit confused, what is the purpose of "turning the shocks"? I am assuming you mean rotating them 180 degrees? Does this achieve more offset, or camber, or what?
Yes, I have my first Autocross on April 1st. Then first track event April 14 and 15 at Pocono with MetroNY PCA. By then, I have to have the alignment done, full cage installed, motor mounts, LWFW / clutch, and hopefully get that pesky exhaust system off the car!!! hahaha Oh, and graphics package installed, don't want to forget that.......... we are a sick bunch..........