Saru385

got some Cup 2's coming in next week to replace my not so old Pilot Sport PS2's.
i swear, i'm going to start charging the county for cleaning up screws and nails with my tires...

first time going with the Cup 2's so will be interesting to see how different they feel.

bweSteve

Subscr

I'd also be interested in hearing what you both think of the Cup 2's on your cars, given that's all I've ever driven on mine (hearing so much on the PS4 S's now,.. so it has me interested).

=Steve

RAudi Driver

I've got the Pilot 4S on every single car I own. They are an amazing tire. I was trying to get the car out this am but family duties came first. Maybe next weekend and I'll report on what differences I feel. Pros and cons.

Back on topic, figured out I'm going to install a GT2 rear sway and adjusting the front stock bar one or two from soft setting. Also some LCA inners all the way around. Maybe thrust arms too but I'm leaving the dog bones stock for the time being.

cgfen

I would ask you to consider a "track-focused" alignment prior to spending $$ on parts.
I have all stock bits on my 6 gt3 and with a good alignment by Adam @ Vollig AutoWerks you may find it to be scalpel-like enough.
At worst you've spent $300 for an alignment to experiment.

Taking the compliance out of your chassis bit will resort in a more "terrible street ride" than alignment settings, though my / your car does/ will tramline.

Have fun

Craig

RAudi Driver

since tires were just put on I was going to take it down to Darrin at West End and have him align again and another corner balance. I though, why not take the opportunity to install a few parts to help the old girl out. I don't want to kill the tires so a track focused alignment isn't the best more for me at this time.

Appreciate the advice though.

911rox

This!!!

If you are running MPS Cup2s, they will be heat cycled and rubbish WELLLLLL before you "kill" the tyres. I'm running full stock components, very aggressive alignment and till recently my times were as fast as the fastest local Porsche club guys at my local tracks... They have since gained time on race compound semis (on 18s) whereas I'm still running cup2. The car handles like a scalpel on and off the track. I'm yet to bin a tyre corded as they are cooked and rubbish well before missing inner shoulders.

I don't get why people race out to change every suspension component on their car before they've maximised the potential of what they have... I get the gt2 sway bar but as the cgfen said, go to a good race shop that knows how to set up a gt3 and get an alignment. It might take a couple goes to get it the way you want it and neutral but I bet the standard components are more than up to the task...

Tom@TPC Racing

My opinion is to start by thoroughly checking the existing suspension parts to see if any item(s) need immediate attention. If all good, then I first mechanical mod I'd do as an upgrade is adjustable rear toe links because OEM rear toe link is non-adjustable and can move around on its rubber bushing that results in rear toe distortion. Rear toe is an essential element to stability and grip.

As the adjustable rear toe links, there are many choices from many prominent vendors. Here's my shameless pitch... It is of my opinion that we here at TPC Racing make damn good rear toe links for 997 GT3/RS - our version is "derived" from the design of the Porsche Motorsport 2011-2013 IMSA GT3 Cup updated version for 997.1 Cup with the provision to optimize toe curve for street car ride height range- designed byand for GT3 owners. Link: https://www.tpcracing.com/product/pr...ble-toe-links/
And I think we are the only company that have tested and published the rear toe curve for those who finds this info useful to tune the balance of their car.

bweSteve

Tom!! ... I've BEEN to your shop,... I've SEEN you guys work,.... How the HECK do you have the time to do all the work that Michael pulls into the shop AND help us all out here on Rennlist with your posts???!!!

You my friend, must need very little sleep.
=Steve

Tom@TPC Racing

We work like we race. FLATOUT ALL DAY.

RAudi Driver

Thanks Tom, I'll check out the links this weekend. Possibly order a set for the car.


Appreciate all the feedback.

Saru385

Got my car back today. Got the Cup 2s on it now. When I first drove off I thought man, the sidewalls must be much stiffer cuz ride feels really firm. Then I realized that the PASM was in sport mode. Which then made me wonder what went on during the road test...

anyway, will see how much difference I feel between these and the Pilot Sport 2s. Which means, I should probably do something other than freeway driving this weekend!



And here’s what killed my rear tire. Sort of wondering if someone put this behind my tire on purpose...

ugotgrossed

is there a prefer back rd w/lots of turns around tri valley location?

HarmonyJim

As a different opinion on suspension components, I changed out everything on my 2007 RS for the RSS full Tarmac-Series components (as well as their engine mounts), and I found the car to ride actually BETTER than before the changes. I was initially expecting it to beat me to death over any bumps, but figured it was a fair price to pay to eliminate all the rubber suspension bushings. Not only was every bit of 'play' removed, but over bumps it was more compliant. I can only surmise that the oem rubber bushings 'bind' upon suspension movement, and thus eliminating the rubber allows the suspension to actually compress and extend as designed. I have since added Tractive/DSC, GT2 sway bars, trans mounts, and a transmission modified to 997.2 RS specs. To this day it feels far more comfortable than stock, but the shocks and controller may have a huge influence in this. Do be careful with a street/track alignment - that one change almost ruined the entire package, making the car damn near undriveable. It searched all over the road instead on tracking straight, and literally drove me nuts. I just didn't need the steering THAT sensitive and the turn-in so much more 'sharp'. Think seriously about this before you waste $300 on an alignment you won't be happy with. Now I just need to increase the car's rake to 997.2 RS specs, and I should be good!!

Spyerx

my car is 100% monoball everything (cup and ERP parts) and Ohlins TTX. It's 'firm" but actually quite compliant. Its been a while since I've driven a stock one. I do remember it being quite 'soft' the .2 cars are quite a bit different.

First mod:
proper alignment - btw, proper alignment means ride height, camber, caster, roll center, bump curves, toe, etc. It's expensive. But, when done right, totally changes the car.
rear toe links to lock it in (with tom here)
GT2 rear bar or run rear bar full stiff front middle, this depends on setup and your driving style, but .1 bar was softer than later gens

Second mod:
shocks / spring rates - Ie a trackitve setup or ohlins R&T singles, but keep spring rates modest.

Third mod:
Everything

Likely you could do second model level for close to 4k, probably a bit more though.
everything

Tom@TPC Racing

Regarding rake, the factory 997.1/RS has 25mm rake. The factory 997.2/RS has 35mm rake. I would consider spitting the difference to like 29-31mm. My personal experience has been 3mm change of rake is a noticeable difference. Too much rake will cause the rear to get loose. Ideal rake for a car depends on spring rates, driver preference, and other things.
Sorry to be off topic from the title of this thread.