No catylitic converter NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!!!
03-07-2019, 08:08 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No catylitic converter NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!!!
So I own a 2010 GT3 and I bought it in early 2015 as a CPO car had about 26k miles on it at that point NO OVERREVS period .So I assume not driven very hard.Has been used as a track car only for four seasons.Engine has been faultless a couple of check engine lights that cleared immediately but that’s it .
Today my tech was removing the side mufflers to install bypass pipes.The right Cat is gone,the housing is still there.BUT NO CAT !
And as I said NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.
So first question is anyone experienced this exact situation before ?
Second question what are the downsides of running say 1 event like this with one Cat?
Third question any idea how the car would NOT be THROWING A CHECK LIGHT?Especially since it was CPOed and I haven’t flashed it?
Anything wrong with running the car with,say ,200 cell CATS on both sides without a flash?thanks in advance HOM
Today my tech was removing the side mufflers to install bypass pipes.The right Cat is gone,the housing is still there.BUT NO CAT !
And as I said NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.
So first question is anyone experienced this exact situation before ?
Second question what are the downsides of running say 1 event like this with one Cat?
Third question any idea how the car would NOT be THROWING A CHECK LIGHT?Especially since it was CPOed and I haven’t flashed it?
Anything wrong with running the car with,say ,200 cell CATS on both sides without a flash?thanks in advance HOM
03-07-2019, 08:25 PM
#2
You can run the car cat-less, catted (200 or 500) without any flashing needed. When cats are not present the car will typically throw a CEL when driving at low revs as the airflow is slower. if the car is driven on the track, let's say, it is possible to go through the entire day without a CEL. One can also flash the ECU and remove/disable/adjust O2 sensor parameters that would get rid of such a condition.
Stock cats are very dense and get very hot at the track, so it is not unusual for the to fail/disintegrate, which is likely why you see one side being gone. Why only one said failed vs. the other or both, who knows. You are likely OK to drive the car for now, but I would make a decision on the ultimate setup you want and get that installed (i.e. race setup - no cats, 200cell sport, or oem).
Stock cats are very dense and get very hot at the track, so it is not unusual for the to fail/disintegrate, which is likely why you see one side being gone. Why only one said failed vs. the other or both, who knows. You are likely OK to drive the car for now, but I would make a decision on the ultimate setup you want and get that installed (i.e. race setup - no cats, 200cell sport, or oem).
03-07-2019, 10:29 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
^^^
spot on. When i had the cup car 100cell cats on mine if i had it in track i could go a weekend no cel.
Cruise down the 405 for 30 mins. Cel.
spot on. When i had the cup car 100cell cats on mine if i had it in track i could go a weekend no cel.
Cruise down the 405 for 30 mins. Cel.
03-07-2019, 11:09 PM
#4
Former Vendor
I was initially thinking about 100 cell
03-07-2019, 11:24 PM
#5
with the cup headers, I believe the CEL comes from the 1 less o2 sensor compared to oem header. You should be able to get an o2 bung to to avoid the CEL.
03-08-2019, 06:10 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
I have both o2 sensors.
200 cell may or may not trip a warning. Spacers May or may not help
the 109 cell are not efficient enough to pass the differential test between the pre and post cat
cobb tune deals with this tho.
200 cell may or may not trip a warning. Spacers May or may not help
the 109 cell are not efficient enough to pass the differential test between the pre and post cat
cobb tune deals with this tho.