adi_d

Oh man, you are ready to step up your game and get a vehicle that requires a massive amount of "lubrication" Joking aside, couple of things to think about consider:

- FAL is not a bad option to have, but it will fail on the track due to heat. It costs ~12k to replace. On the flipside it takes like 2 hours to take out and save for later...so either way you are fine.
- Pinned coolant lines are nice to have and must for the track. If your car does not have it, it will cost ~4k to do. Once you are doing that job you will also then say let's replace water pump, thermostat, drive belt, sparkplugs, etc., etc. etc. so another ~4k easily.
- LSD is absolutely a must to extract the performance. That is another ~3k job and often people replace clutch, flywheel, etc. while doing that, so really more like ~$4.5k.

If the car has been tracked it is not a problem as long as you have an understanding of the maintenance performed. Here are some examples:

- Every 4000 track miles the center lock hub assembly and various parts need to be replace, preventatively, costing around $2.5K.
- My axles failed/leaked after 2 years and 50+ track days, with a replacement cost of ~2k.
- OEM front calipers had to be rebuilt twice, as the pucks crack, and the seals crack from the heat. Eventually replaced with steel pistons and heat resistant seals. Figure ~$1.5K after 30 track days or so.

Obviously not an inclusive list by any stretch, but just to give you an idea of maintenance costs if driven fast. You are clearly not going to do as much track time as in my use case, but it is an older car and over time it will require all these things to keep it safe and reliable on the track. It is also very likely that you will start going faster and faster just because of the car itself.

As for street use, for me, it has been marginally useful at best. Going on a breakfast drive Sunday morning and that's about it. Modern Porsches like GT4, 991 GT3 etc. are far far superior. The real problem for me with this car on street has been the transmission...it is just not smooth or that fun to operate, especially at low RPMs. On the track it is epic. I am not trying to be critical, as I love my car to death, but there are certain realities you have to deal with regardless.

To me the stress about finding the perfect car and ensuring ultimate reliability is kind of silly overall. You are buying a performance vehicle that is older, and if driven hard, will need to be maintained accordingly. Just be aware of the major/common costs and decide if you are ready to absorb them. If so, then get and enjoy the car, if not, then why stress yourself out?

Hella-Buggin'

Hey Adi,

Thanks for the in depth and honest breakdown.

You working today? Swing by for a beer / cocktail so I can ask you more annoying questions.

flsupraguy

Nothing wrong with a 997.1 gt3

mooty

most ppl who can afford to really track the car, 30 days a year say.. then they have the pocket to maintain the car well. don't let that scare you
it's those who track 5 days a year are the car I fear most

but to see if a car has a lot of track time?
put on lift.
see bottem of side skirts
take wheels off, see and feel the rash on wheel liners.
no one replace those things. and a seriously tracked car will have rash all over those area.

oh and if the red calipers are now Bordeaux, it's tracked to hell

superfast02911

Sent you PM. I've got a .1 with welded lines on a newish 3.8 motor, roll bar, Euro buckets, Guards LSD, and more. Ask Mr. Mooty 'bout it.

pissedpuppy

^^^ here's your answer ^^^

ur not gonna find a 10+ year old GT3 w/delivery miles - all have been driven, many have been driven hard

or you can buy a new GT3, this way you are guaranteed to have your peace of mind