How to, Center Lock
08-09-2018, 01:18 AM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
How to, Center Lock
hi, I have a 2010 gt3 997.2 and just wondering if there is some decent videos and or ez instructional info to learn how to use and maintain my cl
wheels?
rhanks in advanced
helimini
wheels?
rhanks in advanced
helimini
08-09-2018, 07:53 AM
#2
This one is pretty good but please confirm your torque specs... this is for a 991 but it is generally the same. (991 components are not physically interchangeable with 997s)
..
here are some pointers.
1 only tighten and remove the wheel off the ground with a helper putting his or hers foot on the brakes.
2 purchase from suncoast ....
wheel alignment tool so that you won’t scratch calipers https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/CLTOOL.html
thiis is the mandatory grease. https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/04302000.html
cap removal tool https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU99XCLCC.html
3 search the threads for the proper large format breaker bar and torque wrench combo. $350 ish
4. You have to regresse the races of the center lock each and every time with a thin layer of the above mentioned grease or it will make a clicking noise.
5. When tightening to the specified torque... you then back it off about a 1/4 a turn or less so that the center of the lock pops back out flush. Then the wheel is “locked”... if it doesn’t do that then retighten and back it off again as it might take a couple of tries. ( if you take the cap off your wheel now... you should be able to push in the locking mechanism to get an idea of what you will look for)
hope this points you in the right direction and I am sure others will chime in.
oh lastly.... if you ever get your wheels redone, make sure the painter or powder coater does not paint on the inner and outer “races” of the wheels like my guy did!
Cheers.
here are some pointers.
1 only tighten and remove the wheel off the ground with a helper putting his or hers foot on the brakes.
2 purchase from suncoast ....
wheel alignment tool so that you won’t scratch calipers https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/CLTOOL.html
thiis is the mandatory grease. https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/04302000.html
cap removal tool https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU99XCLCC.html
3 search the threads for the proper large format breaker bar and torque wrench combo. $350 ish
4. You have to regresse the races of the center lock each and every time with a thin layer of the above mentioned grease or it will make a clicking noise.
5. When tightening to the specified torque... you then back it off about a 1/4 a turn or less so that the center of the lock pops back out flush. Then the wheel is “locked”... if it doesn’t do that then retighten and back it off again as it might take a couple of tries. ( if you take the cap off your wheel now... you should be able to push in the locking mechanism to get an idea of what you will look for)
hope this points you in the right direction and I am sure others will chime in.
oh lastly.... if you ever get your wheels redone, make sure the painter or powder coater does not paint on the inner and outer “races” of the wheels like my guy did!
Cheers.
08-11-2018, 10:31 AM
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
08-11-2018, 11:07 AM
#5
You know... I know there is a lot of hate towards centerlocks.. but I for one find them to be just fine and haven't been faces with any serious maintenance issues. Get the right lube, big enough breaker bar... you can even figure out just how much you have to hang on the wrench to put the right amount of torque on it and not even need to be doing it with surgical precision.
Also get the small tool that is used to pop out the cap.. the other end of it is key... I saw some people actual twisting the centerlock to make the inner toothed lock to pop out... hat's the wrong way of doing it. If you press on the locking pin with that tool it has a good 10 degree free twisting range allowing you to align the teeth and pop it back out.
Also get the small tool that is used to pop out the cap.. the other end of it is key... I saw some people actual twisting the centerlock to make the inner toothed lock to pop out... hat's the wrong way of doing it. If you press on the locking pin with that tool it has a good 10 degree free twisting range allowing you to align the teeth and pop it back out.
08-11-2018, 12:48 PM
#6
08-11-2018, 04:03 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
You know... I know there is a lot of hate towards centerlocks.. but I for one find them to be just fine and haven't been faces with any serious maintenance issues. Get the right lube, big enough breaker bar... you can even figure out just how much you have to hang on the wrench to put the right amount of torque on it and not even need to be doing it with surgical precision.
But there are two scenarios where they suck:
Getting a flat while on a road trip. Small tire/mechanic shops don't know what to do for you. Its happened to me and I carry the tools in the car at all times.
Changing tires at the track. It takes twice as long as twice as many people to change the damn things.
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11-01-2018, 07:26 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
This is a great thread. Helpful to a first time CL owner like myself,.. although I have not actually removed mine yet, and need to get a wrench first. So I thought I would chime in here & ask...
Aside from hearing rumors that Precision Instruments was discontinuing their PREC4D600F36H ... although I think I may still be able to find it / buy it through some distributors that may have it. ECS Tuning had it on back-order for a lot of guys recently (hence why some are thinking this one is going away)...
The combo (breaker bar / torque wrench) seems to be around $470.
Anyway,... Has anyone heard of the SUNEX 40600 ?? Any experience with it? It's a click type. A buddy on mine is at SEMA and was able to see it in person. Said the numbers are etched on, seemed like good quality.
https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools...iABEgIEsvD_BwE
Thanks,
=Steve
Aside from hearing rumors that Precision Instruments was discontinuing their PREC4D600F36H ... although I think I may still be able to find it / buy it through some distributors that may have it. ECS Tuning had it on back-order for a lot of guys recently (hence why some are thinking this one is going away)...
The combo (breaker bar / torque wrench) seems to be around $470.
Anyway,... Has anyone heard of the SUNEX 40600 ?? Any experience with it? It's a click type. A buddy on mine is at SEMA and was able to see it in person. Said the numbers are etched on, seemed like good quality.
https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools...iABEgIEsvD_BwE
Thanks,
=Steve
04-22-2019, 11:12 AM
#10
I would bet that any tractor trailer supply type shop or even harbor freight will have a breaker bar and suitable torque wrench.... I know we feel like we need the "precision tools" for our cars... but this isn't really necessary for these wheels. You just want to get to the general recommended torque settings and you will be fine. The nuts have a locking system that will not allow them to back off. The torque just makes sure that the wheel is "set" properly onto the spindle.
something that I would recommend doing is getting some pipe wrap for the breaker bar as it would be easy to hit the side of the car with it!
and lastly.... use the proper grease spread evenly over the nut and back hub as instructed... and if your wheels click when driving, then you didn't spread or add enough grease.
Cheers!
something that I would recommend doing is getting some pipe wrap for the breaker bar as it would be easy to hit the side of the car with it!
and lastly.... use the proper grease spread evenly over the nut and back hub as instructed... and if your wheels click when driving, then you didn't spread or add enough grease.
Cheers!
04-22-2019, 04:32 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
I recommend getting used to taking your CLs apart, cleaning and greasing with the Optimol paste only, wouldn't substitute it. There are stickies on how to do this.
I've posted before that some tire places try to "crack it open" with the wheel on the ground(not allowed)an indie place that had no optimol(didn't bother asking what on earth they used)
So early on I decided to remove wheels at home myself-I've also posted that a bad o-ring on the caps will allow moisture in, get new o-rings if yours are faulty.
Considering that many shops wouldn't care about proper torque, greasing, dismantling of the locks, I'd say get used to doing it yourself. Once you're used to it, no issues, and you're confident your wheel isn't gonna fly off.
Most importantly, ask yourself who took them off and put them on last, and how long ago? There are cases of people posting that they can't loosen their locks.
So even if you're not changing tires, it's good to take them off, clean and re-lubricate once in a while. I had my wheels re-balanced btw, noticed vibration at high speed, a weight probably flew out, not uncommon-
I've posted before that some tire places try to "crack it open" with the wheel on the ground(not allowed)an indie place that had no optimol(didn't bother asking what on earth they used)
So early on I decided to remove wheels at home myself-I've also posted that a bad o-ring on the caps will allow moisture in, get new o-rings if yours are faulty.
Considering that many shops wouldn't care about proper torque, greasing, dismantling of the locks, I'd say get used to doing it yourself. Once you're used to it, no issues, and you're confident your wheel isn't gonna fly off.
Most importantly, ask yourself who took them off and put them on last, and how long ago? There are cases of people posting that they can't loosen their locks.
So even if you're not changing tires, it's good to take them off, clean and re-lubricate once in a while. I had my wheels re-balanced btw, noticed vibration at high speed, a weight probably flew out, not uncommon-
04-22-2019, 05:24 PM
#12
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Does everyone really fully clean and re-grease the nuts every time they come off the car? As someone who autocrosses, there's a decent chance of having the wheels off frequently and cleaning all the old grease out took me about 3 hours and made a huge mess. I don't mind inspection and making sure there's some grease left, but starting from scratch every time seems pretty high effort if they are not contaminated with dirt.
04-22-2019, 11:59 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
I would re grease, not a complete cleaning every time. But you can notice the grease hardens up after a while, and this depends how frequently the car is driven. What worries me is the moisture inside, if the o-rings are old-
04-23-2019, 09:29 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Does everyone really fully clean and re-grease the nuts every time they come off the car? As someone who autocrosses, there's a decent chance of having the wheels off frequently and cleaning all the old grease out took me about 3 hours and made a huge mess. I don't mind inspection and making sure there's some grease left, but starting from scratch every time seems pretty high effort if they are not contaminated with dirt.
Thx!
04-24-2019, 12:07 AM
#15
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
i think I found references searching here or google. The answer is to tap them upside down on a piece of wood and the cones fall out. The only trick is squeezing the snap ring into it’s groove on the cone washer while you push it back onto the nut for reassembly. There is a document on rennlist that I used for instructions on grease application. i used the search term “optimol”. Going from memory; the threads receive liberal grease, and every other potential sliding surface receives .1 to .2mm very light application. The stainless thrust washer goes in dry, but the surfaces it slides agains are supposed to be coated. There are 3 holes on the cone washer and they are to be filled 2/3 with optimol. I think that’s it... but it’s worth searching for the document. I’ll try to post the link tomorrow if that’s helpful.
