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Just got home and snapped a pic of my setup. My assumption: vacuum comes from the top line. Right line goes to a metal pipe which goes to the exhaust actuator. That line is capped. But what’s with the open port at the bottom? Also. My solenoid is not electrically connected.
The open nipple at the bottom is for outside air to "replace" the vacum when the electrical actual goes to open the flaps. This is how it should be. If your actuator is not electrically connected then it is always letting the air get to the solenoids but blocks off the top line that is eventually the intake manifold vacuum. This actual can fail (mine did) and let air into the manifold and affect drivability.
One point about this. 1st verify that your solenoids are actually working... meaning they are sealed and can hold vacuum. 2nd, when the engine is running put your finger on the exposed nipple. If you feel your finger being sucked on (insert dirty joke here) that means this actuator is letting air into the system and needs to be replaced.
The open nipple at the bottom is for outside air to "replace" the vacum when the electrical actual goes to open the flaps. This is how it should be. If your actuator is not electrically connected then it is always letting the air get to the solenoids but blocks off the top line that is eventually the intake manifold vacuum. This actual can fail (mine did) and let air into the manifold and affect drivability.
One point about this. 1st verify that your solenoids are actually working... meaning they are sealed and can hold vacuum. 2nd, when the engine is running put your finger on the exposed nipple. If you feel your finger being sucked on (insert dirty joke here) that means this actuator is letting air into the system and needs to be replaced.
I like it I can confirm that with the cable disconnected I am having my finger sucked on. So this means the solenoid is broke? I assume plugging the line that delivers vacuum to the solenoid should make the car run smoother? Do you by any chance have insight on the vacuum in the crankcase? Should I feel it at the oil filler cap at idle (I know I keep
asking this question... )
Hey OP.. yeah with the actuator disconnected, you should not feel anything at the nipple, that tells me that the actuator is letting unmeasured air into the system. For the time being you can use duct tape or similar to block the nipple at the bottom off to prevent air going into the system until you get a new unit.
Please note that these actuators are widely used on other cars, the Porsche one runs 200+ new. I got a $20 off of ebay, works fine.
Thanks noro! Last night I had no chance to test it. I am hoping to have some time tonight or tomorrow. Plan is to plug the vacuum line that goes to the solenoid. This should tell me if this was the problem that I am facing. I will also be ordering a new solenoid and appreciate your comment!
Well that was not it. I went ahead and unplugged the vacuum line providing the vacuum to the solenoid. Plugged the line with a rubber cap and took it for a quick ride. Still same issue, lumpy idle and hesitation, cold and warm. Since it was late I did not want to wake the neighbors so I drove it slow and I could feel it hesitating strongly around 2000rpm. Even at 3000 rpm I can feel it if I am light on the throttle. Going on with my search for the vacuum at the oil cap... what else could I check?
With my Durametric hooked up no misfire data was showing up. I also checked at the oil filler and no vacuum detected.
Originally Posted by tractorguy77
Checked the battery. Seems to be ok. I would greatly appreciate if someone could check with their durametric what misfire data they collect. Also if anybody has an idea on what other data I should take a look at. Thank you very much!
When you say solenoid, do you mean the metal thingies at the exhaust or the electrical actuator with the metal nipple at the bottom? What exactly did you disconnect/plugged? Did you remove the other side of the top rubber line at the actuator and plug the plastic black piping leading to the manifold area of the engine.
In any event if you are detecting vacuum buildup at the nipple, that piece is not working properly.
When you say solenoid, do you mean the metal thingies at the exhaust or the electrical actuator with the metal nipple at the bottom? What exactly did you disconnect/plugged? Did you remove the other side of the top rubber line at the actuator and plug the plastic black piping leading to the manifold area of the engine.
In any event if you are detecting vacuum buildup at the nipple, that piece is not working properly.
Noro, thanks for checking back. Sorry that my explanation was not clear... I could do a better job in german ... anyhow. I mean the electrical actuator. I disconnected the vacuum line that connects to the top of the actuator. Then I plugged the line. Tomorrow i will put a gauge on the line to see if there is vacuum build up. Do you by any chance know the value to expect?
Good morning i was wondering about running Techron. Will give it a shot. Here a pic of what i am witnessing. The ignition counter misfire detection is counting up and then I see misfire on individual cylinders. They reset at some point.
06-27-2018, 09:46 PM
I like it 
So this means the solenoid is broke? I assume plugging the line that delivers vacuum to the solenoid should make the car run smoother? Do you by any chance have insight on the vacuum in the crankcase? Should I feel it at the oil filler cap at idle (I know I keep
that was not it. I went ahead and unplugged the vacuum line providing the vacuum to the solenoid. Plugged the line with a rubber cap and took it for a quick ride. Still same issue, lumpy idle and hesitation, cold and warm. Since it was late I did not want to wake the neighbors so I drove it slow and I could feel it hesitating strongly around 2000rpm. Even at 3000 rpm I can feel it if I am light on the throttle. Going on with my search for the vacuum at the oil cap... 
