TheBruce

With the help of @Wayne Smith Im dropping my oil pan this weekend for the first time and appreciate any tips and recommendations. I cant find instructions to remove/reinstall the pan in the Workshop Manual?, nor any definitive DIY guides. I'm going off a few videos from Jake Raby as well as some scattered posts.

Here are the supplies I have:

1. Loctite 5900 sealant from Porsche
2. 10mm socket to remove the 13 perimeter bolts
3. Razor blade and scotchbrite pad to remove the old sealant
4. CRC Brakleen to clean the inside of the pan
5. 10 liters of Motul 5w40, filter, crush washer

Here is what I know:

1. You should leave 2 perimeter bolts threaded to hold the pan from falling when you pry it. Only pry from the designated spot.
2. Remove the rubber windows from the baffle before cleaning the pan
3. Use razor blade and scotchbrite pad to remove the old sealant. Wipe denatured alcohol to prep the flange.
4. Remove any debris from the pickup tube
5. Clean the pan with brake cleaner
6. Torque the perimeter bolts to 7 ft lbs in a cross pattern from the center

Open questions:

1. How big of a bead of sealant should you lay down?
2. Should you lay the bead down closer to the outer lip of the flange so it doesnt drip into the pan when you tighten it down?
3. Should you clean the inside of the sump too, or just the pan?

Thx in advance!

jeffm

Unfortunately I don't have any tips for you, however, why are you removing the oil pan?

Quadcammer

I dont like a razor blade on that surface. i used a brass bristle brush with some mineral spirits and it cleaned up in no time

steved0x

Brass bristle brush for me too. I have dropped my pan twice (986 Boxster), first time I used the Loctite, it was very hard to squeeze out of the tube, I have heard to submerge the tube of Loctite in warm/hot water to maybe soften it up and make it easier (unless you have the little gun that looks like a small caulk gun, I was never able to find one). This first time I dropped it was to install an X-51 style baffle. The second time I did it, was to install an LN 2 QT Deep sump, and this time I used Reinzosil sealant, much easier to apply than the Loctite and the tube came with a metal key which when turned disperses the sealant evenly. I attempted to use a 1-2mm bead but it was more like 2-3 mm. I went on the center of the flange for my bead, and to the inside of all of the bolts.

The Reinzosil was only around $10'ish from Amazon, if I were to drop the sump a 3rd time and I had a free tube of Loctite, I would still buy the Reinzosil again. Squeezing the Loctite was the toughest part of the job.

A tip to make the reinstall of the pan easier, get some M6 threaded studs maybe 30-45mm long, I got mine by getting some low grade M6 bolts at Lowe's and then I got them to cut the heads off using the chain link cutter in the section that sells chain. I used 3 spaced evenly around the sump, you can then slide the oil pan cover up these 3 studs and it will line up perfectly and you don't have to worry about smearing the sealant when you go to line it up the start the bolts.

Good luck, it is definitely a DIY level project.

Steve

TheBruce

Awesome! Many thx all.

@jeffm - I found some unfriendly looking aluminum shavings in my filter after my first oil change last week. Never fun. I posted here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...er-debris.html

The theory is it was left over shavings from the machining processes that just hadnt been flushed out. My local Indy's concurred with Jake Raby's reply:

The Blackstone report came back normal so hoping to prove Jakes hypothesis by pulling and cleaning the pan.

@Steved0X - yes, the Loctite tube I have comes with a plastic plunger so I hope that solves your issue. Great tip on the M6 studs and running the sealant inside the bolts.

@Quadcammer - Jake Raby used a razor blade in his videos but I think your approach might be safer for the uninitiated.

I will post the steps we take after the deed is done.

Devil Boy

This DIY has steps regarding removal and installation of the oil sump pan.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post10244928

TheBruce

@Devil Boy - thats what I was looking for! This clarifies the perimeter bolts are E10 Torx. I read in another post they were 10mm.

mattyf

Unrelated to aluminum shavings, but you might try and peak at the cylinder walls while you're in there.

TheBruce

@mattyf - thx! I had this on my list of questions, but forgot to ask. Can you get a clear look at them or do you need a scope?

Porto911

Hello,

Didn’t want to start a new thread on this. Anyone know if the original plastic baffle would fit on a new OEM oil pan? Apparently we can order theses without the baffles and purchase baffles by themselves. I’m doing my research and some have said these oil pans have changed a little over the years of production but very little ( to little to make a difference?)... I’m also looking at the X51 kit but are not available in Canada right now, major back order.

TheTorch

You need a scope. I have a $25 Amazon endoscope if you need one fast -- I believe I am not far from you (Peninsula), and would be glad to drop it by Wayne's.

I think threading it into each cylinder can be a bit tricky, from what I've seen on Raby's videos.

Phrog Phlyer

I found the Locktite a bear to lay down an even bead, especially once the tube was less than full. So, the next time I did the pan I bought these - - I put the whole tube of locktite in the syringe and used them without the tips. It made a perfect size bead and it was lot easier to control. Made the job much easier.