docdrs

Had my PDK clutch oil service done today. I had the day off so I watched the P Tech , Fred, do the service. Here is a brief synopsis with a couple of pics.

Now, only 4 litres of oil was used.... he probably let it drain for about 25 minutes. You will not get any more out as it is in the cooling rad and tubes to and from the unit, and residual oil in the pan. This makes sense to me and why there is so much confusion about the volume required for this process. If the pan is replaced then you will get closer to the 5 litres. Also a fair bit of oil is wasted during the filling of the PDK due to over fill coming out of the fill hole.

Driving the vehicle afterwards the shifting seems a lot smoother, although I only drove 4 kms home.

6 litres, new drain and fill plugs were put out for the service. The old ones looked fine but they do this perhaps not because the have to but because they can.




Removal of under panel



Draining oil then install new drain plug. Oil looked new



tape applied to protect pan seal



static refilling of PDK , the oil fill hole is quite difficult to get to and the pump he used had a 90 degree elbow fitting on the end of it to get to the hole.



engine running and running of PDK thru gears then engine off

filling PDK again



engine running and running thru gears again then engine off

hook up PIWIS, start car, bring PDK up to 30 degrees ( about 4 minutes) place car in PDK FILL MODE and add Pentosin to finish PDK fill till running out of the fill hole and then replace new fill plug. This PIWIS process took no more than 5 minutes as stated in procedure list



Procedure took about 1.5 hours

ask Fred 1 million questions about car

It was noted that I had had a transmission over temperature code on the PIWIS..... Fred said it was probably due the cooling valve sticking and not opening. He showed me the valve and solenoid and said they were fine but he has seen then stick and needed replacing. Keep an eye on it and if it occurs again they can change it. He wasn't to worried as it occurred at an RPM of 1450. and about 300 kms ago. I think it happened on a very cold, wet day in December and maybe it had to do with ice?????

3Series

How much did you pay for that service?

docdrs

227 labour
189 parts
54 tax

canadian $

cool flash

Thanks for the photo documentation of the process.

I think with proper equipment this makes for a decent DIY.

CF

porscheralph

Was that in US or Canadian $$?

Cbst09

This process sounds very similar to the process for a drain and fill with my Subaru CVT fluid. The subaru procedure calls for draining the fluid and then filling till it drips out of fill hole. Then running the car and cycle through the gears and get tranny up to around 90 to 120 degrees F and then adding more fluid till it begins running back out.

With my Subaru what I did was what I call a cold drain and a cold fill. I drained out exactly 5 1/2 quarts. Replaced drain plug and was able to fill up with 4 1/2 quarts before fluid began spilling out. I then started the car up and with my foot in brake pedal I cycled through the gears PRND with the car still idling I was able to re-open the fill plug and install the remaining 1 quart of fluid.

So, my point is that I removed exactly 5.5 quarts of fluid and replaced exactly 5.5 quarts of fluid. Both were cold so the thermal expansion of fluid is not a factor.

Something tells me that we are making the PDK fluid change more complicated than it is. so hypothetically if we drain the fluid and measure 4 quarts. Install 3 quarts and then idle car briefly and cycle through gears and open fill plug and add exactly 1 quart more. What would be wrong with that? Yes it is only a partial drain and fill but we could always repeat the process after a tank of gas to get another dilution with new fluid. here is the video I made of the cvt fluid change along with a cameo appearance of my C4S

snake eyes

May I ask why your tech did not follow the PI from Porsche of America fully?
You did not replace the PAN and FILTER -which it clearly states..

I WOULD BE WORRIED buying used PDK 997.2 because everyone is shortcutting this in the name of saving a nickle...

just stating a FACT.

3Series

That's just for a certain year. What I've read on here (which is prob false LOL), you replace the entire pan because the drain bolt won't go back in properly. In that case, the filter won't get changed but its not necessary.

Someone posted pics of there old filter with high miles 60k plus and it was in good condition.

3Series

Probably. There just aren't enough DIY'ers that are willing to gamble $15k on a tranny.

Sawborg

Nice documentation OP.


On my 2009 997.2, the pan and filter get replaced at 120K miles, while the 60K mile service is just a fluid change.

snake eyes

The below procedure posted in other thread is WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE.
-
Drain the PDK transmission fluid, replace the drain plug if possible (the Factory installed drain plug is plastic).
Replace the PDK transmission pan and all the pan bolts. Note: The PDK transmission oil pan incorporates the filter assembly. All the PDK Transmission oil pan bolts (6.00mm x 25.00mm) are of aluminum construction. It is recommended to always replace aluminum fasteners as a general rule, to never reuse them.
Torque all the aluminum oil pan bolts to 24.0” In-Lb. (24.0 Inch Pounds).
Place masking tape on the seam of the oil pan to the transmission, directly under the fill Plug area to keep oil out of the Crevice/Seam mating area (The masking tape length should be roughly 6” long).
Static fill the PDK transmission with fluid until it runs out of the fill-plug hole, leave the fill plug off for now.
Connect a suitable scan tool and then set it up to monitor the PDK fluid temperature. Attention: Hot oil can scold!
Start and run the engine in “Park”, immediately add fluid if it is not running out of the fill plug hole, carefully maintain this fluid level throughout the whole fill process.
Cycle the shifter through all shift modes of R-N-D at least once, pausing for 1-2 seconds in each mode.
Move the shifter selector into “Park” mode.
Closely monitor the PDK fluid temperature. When the PDK fluid reaches the temperature of 30°C (86°F), you must command the vehicle utilizing a scan tool into the transmission “Fill mode”. The scan tool will not enter the “Fill Mode” until the PDK transmission oil temperature reaches 30°C (86°F), BUT at no higher than 40°C (104°F). PLEASE NOTE; this process must be expediently followed because the “Oil Fill” mode ends sharply after 5 minutes.
Now fill the PDK fluid while the transmission is in the “Fill Mode”. Put the PDK fluid fill plug in and torque it to 26.0’ +/- 2.0 Ft-Lbs. (26.0 Foot Pounds) while the engine is still running.
Remove the previously applied tape and then clean all the residual fluid off of the exterior surfaces.
Turn the engine off.
Reassemble the car as per the Workshop Manual in PIWIS TSI Online.
As a recommendation only, it is best to check the rear wheel alignment on the Mid-Engine Sports Cars due to having the Chassis Strengthening Plate removed for the PDK fluid service.
NOTE: The Porsche factory recommended Service Interval for the PDK transmission fluid is every 60,000 miles. It might be advisable to recommend this service every 40,000 miles for a healthier transmission and also for better shifting characteristics.

NOTE: Consult with PIWIS TSI Online for any additional needed information.

Transmission Pan/Filter Kit PN: 9G1.321.025.00 (This kit includes the drain plug and all the oil pan bolts)

Transmission Fluid PN: 000.043.207.29 (Usually requires roughly 4.5 – 5.5 Liters)

Cbst09

"Drain the PDK transmission fluid, replace the drain plug if possible (the Factory installed drain plug is plastic).
Replace the PDK transmission pan and all the pan bolts. "

So in the first step you replace the drain plug then in the 2nd step you replace the transmission pan. Why replace the drain plug if you are dropping the pan and replacing it anyway? Are you only replacing the pan if the drain bolt were to not go in properly?

I'm not trying to be difficult, but if the primary rationale for replacing the pan is because the drain bolt may not go in properly, why would one need to replace the pan if the drain plug did wind up going back in properly besides the integrated filter which is usually clean anyways? Usually it is pretty easy to determine if a drain plug is stripped or leaking.

Believe me, I am not trying to take shortcuts or risk a 15k transmission just for kicks. I just want to learn more about this since just a small handful of rennlisters have gotten this done. Sometimes the Porsche way is a lot more complicated than it needs to be. If it were up to Porsche every brake pad replacement would involve replacing the pads, rotors, dampers, sensors, and caliper bolts. It can certainly be argued that a brake pad replacement could involve less than the full monte and still be safe and effective. Proper brake fluid flushes would require a PIWIS to activate the abs to bleed the abs system. Have we found through our collective knowledge over the years that there are ways for DIYers to get the job done another way? Sure, and that's all I am hinting at, drain 4 quarts and replace 4 quarts.

dgjks6

Holy crap this is a long thread.

So I bought a Porsche 997.2 repair manual. 8000 pages of glorious information. They describe all procedures in there. There is a section on replacing the pan. There is also a section on changing just the fluid. It does not differentiate when to do which.

The owners manual says 6yr/60K PDK clutch oil change.

The repair manual describes this in a section as "Changing ATF". It calls everything ATF - but in the description is the pdk clutch fluid along with the fill procedure involving the tape and the PIWIS. The only warning it gives is that if the car has not moved in 5 years the clutch fluid must be changed. Nothing about changing the pan.

So my conclusion is the pan does not need changed when you change the clutch fluid (or as Porsche calls it ATF)

StormRune

The directive appears to address just the drain plug and isn't in the manual since the directive to change the plug in early PDK production models came out as a service bulletin after the service manuals were written. Maybe the plug isn't available separately from the pan? I dunno. EDIT: The drain plug is available separately for about $17.

It only appears to apply to cars with PDKs built prior to August 2009, although it isn't clear how long those PDKs continued to be put in cars. Here is the stripped down text of the service bulletin:

A modified oil drain plug was installed in the ATF pan as of the beginning of August 2009.
Modifications and identifying features:
- Material: aluminum (previously steel),
- unpainted, waxed surface (previously painted black),
- Tightening torque 15 Nm (11 ftlb.) +3 Nm (+2 ftlb) (previously 22 Nm/16 ftlb. + 3 Nm/2 ftlb.).
- Marking on plug head: 15+3 (= tightening torque).

Date of Introduction: Beginning of August 2009, as of transmission numbers:
CG100 1012163
CG100 2 002938 (with limited-slip differential)
CG130 2 011700 (with limited-slip differential)

Edit/Followup: I've poked around a little more this morning and found a post by Wayne Smith in another thread that seems to explain the early pan swap a little more possibly:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post12661798

Glyndellis

dgjks6 - would you advise from where you bought the 997.2repair manual? I've been looking for a repair manual and haven't found anything other than one for a 997.1