lowbee

Quicker way maybe to disconnect the battery, then step on the brake so as to drain any residue electrical charges. When the brake lights are no longer lit, you are done.

Psymon

This might be useful. My post is #6. There are a few other posts on similar issue.

For my case, the problem went away by driving it very hard like a proper sport car. Now I can't even remember I used to have this problem!

John@Fabspeed

These cars have a tendency for poor throttle response, which in some cases is further accentuated by a sensitive ECU that is having trouble adapting to an increase in airflow from intake upgrades. We have a phenomenal tuner that can fully optimize the ECU mapping for significantly improved throttle response and any upgrades that have been done to the car. A nice chunk of unleashed hp/tq is the cherry on top haha. Also, as of recently we can now tune your vehicles without the need to remove and send us your ECU as well. Check out the details here.

If anyone is interested in making this happen please give me a shout and i'd be happy to go over the details with you, and get you set up with forum member pricing

Petza914

For anyone having this issue on a 6MT car, there is a switch on the clutch that retards the advance timing of the engine as it's being let out to prevent people who aren't good with a clutch from stalling their cars. Not only can you hear the engine change sound, but you can feel a difference right at the end of the travel when letting it out. I'm assuming that anyone with an MT car does not have their clutch fully out at the 800-1,000 RPMs being referenced here.

To test whether disabling this switch will eliminate your issue, it's easy to remove from it's holder above the clutch pedal. Then just tape it in the pressed in position and drive the car. If it works, you can leave it taped up like that or make a more permanent modifications by drilling the end out of a quick connect splice, putting in both wires that run to the switch, and splicing them together. Mine has been permanently bypassed for 3 years and it makes our clutch/engine behavior much more direct feeling, almost like a cable actuated one.

riggzee2

my car is a Tip S...
Seems more prevalent in sport mode

lowbee

Wow, thx for this. It's news to me, where exactly is this switch ? A picture or link would be appreciated.

DC911S

Are you talking about the switch that does the lockout that prevents the starter from engaging unless the clutch is pressed in?

motopix

It's not the same switch as I have my clutch switch taped shut and the car still won't start without clutch in.

motopix

Just look at the top of your clutch pedal and you can't miss it. You pull the switch by rotating it 90 degrees CCW. I've had mine taped for about a year and would not go back.

Petza914

As these guys have said, it's a different switch and does not effect the starting nor the cruise control functionality. On .2 cars I've heard it does create an error code though, which is why I said for .1 with MT.

Wasserkühlung

Interesting never heard of this before. Can anyone actually confirm this switch changes timing advance? Kind of off topic for OP's original discussion but I may have a go at it.

Petza914

This was actually figured out by a guy on his Cayman 987 on planet-9 and his initial investigation was because his car sounded different (and not in a good way) when he would pull away from a stop. In working with his Indy, they figured out that the timing being retarded from this switch is what accounted for the different sound. It's such an easy thing to test to see if you like what it does, you should give it a go.

Pete

motopix

I had that same odd sound when pulling away and through search found the planet-9 talk and some threads on here too. Some people complain it makes it easier to stall and I can see that as it did take a bit more concentration while re-learning the engagement but after a bit you never think about it again.

jchapura

Hey Pete, is the switch you're talking about the green-circled one in my pic?


Is the switch normally-opened or normally-closed (in the clutch depressed position)?

Petza914

yes, the green circled one. The switch is closed when the clutch is fully out and that's when the car runs like it should. When you push in the clutch the switch extends out so that at the engagement point, you don't stall the car. By the time the pedal makes contact with the switch at the very top of the stroke, the clutch is already fully engaged.

To test the functionality, twist the complete switch assembly 90 degrees which will release it from the bracket/mount, then just tape it in the pressed in position and go for a drive. If you like it, tape it more permanently or splice the two wires together with a quick connect splice (the kind you squeeze with a plier).