what products and procedure you guys use for DETAILING 997?
11-04-2016, 10:49 PM
#31
Drifting
Even a direct drive Flex 3401 random orbital would have a difficult time burning paint. If you have ever held a rotary and random orbital to paint for a short period of time, you would know the difference in heat they generate. I own a Flex 3401 orbital and a Flex PE-14 rotary.
No, the Porter Cable 7424XP is NOT worth getting. If you want cheap, you can get a Harbor Freight dual action polisher for a third the price (if you have a good coupon code) but it has probably 40% more power. Be sure to replace the backing plate that came with the machine since they are not true and will eat up your foam pads. And make sure you grease the gear mechanism with high temp wheel bearing grease prior to using it. The reason i don't like using these cheap orbitals is because they're very buzzy. After hours of polishing, you will lose feeling in your hands.
I have a Flex PE-14 rotary to make quick work of the compounding process, the Flex 3401 for polishing and finishing, and the Rupes Nano for the tight areas. That setup is able to handle any type of paint i may come across.
I have a Flex PE-14 rotary to make quick work of the compounding process, the Flex 3401 for polishing and finishing, and the Rupes Nano for the tight areas. That setup is able to handle any type of paint i may come across.
Harry knows what he's talking about and you have a great stable of polishers there my friend
11-05-2016, 04:04 AM
#32
Track Day
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Edmonton Alberta
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Just started using AutoGlym products.. they seem ok.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Detailing/A...Ee4aAmAb8P8HAQ
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Detailing/A...Ee4aAmAb8P8HAQ
11-05-2016, 10:54 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
RodH -
There are a ton of great videos that can help. I like Larry's at AMMONYC (https://www.ammonyc.com/det-categories/drive/) as well as the Junkman:
The Junkman has a series of 4 videos (over 2 hours total) that explains in detail how to correct car paint. He uses a Porter (though he also owns better quality DA polishers). His point is that technique trumps the tool. Sure that there is some truth to that but also think you get what you pay for so am not trying to debate Porter versus Flex versus Rupes.
In the video he is able to do a pretty good job correcting paint on a car hood that he stands on and scratches all up with his boots (it is his beater car - so he was just doing it to prove a point of how to get out scratches)
I would really suggest watching some of his videos, he is pretty entertaining though a bit long winded. But you will learn a lot. He even has a video on how to watch his videos...sounds a bit crazy but was worthwhile.
thanks
There are a ton of great videos that can help. I like Larry's at AMMONYC (https://www.ammonyc.com/det-categories/drive/) as well as the Junkman:
The Junkman has a series of 4 videos (over 2 hours total) that explains in detail how to correct car paint. He uses a Porter (though he also owns better quality DA polishers). His point is that technique trumps the tool. Sure that there is some truth to that but also think you get what you pay for so am not trying to debate Porter versus Flex versus Rupes.
In the video he is able to do a pretty good job correcting paint on a car hood that he stands on and scratches all up with his boots (it is his beater car - so he was just doing it to prove a point of how to get out scratches)
I would really suggest watching some of his videos, he is pretty entertaining though a bit long winded. But you will learn a lot. He even has a video on how to watch his videos...sounds a bit crazy but was worthwhile.
thanks
11-06-2016, 12:24 AM
#35
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Naples, Florida
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My wife wife thinks I'm crazy for using a leaf blower...
well...scratches and swirl marks make me crazy. This is like a support group. "Hi, my name is Justin...and I'm a
thank you all all for being here
well...scratches and swirl marks make me crazy. This is like a support group. "Hi, my name is Justin...and I'm a
thank you all all for being here
I only wax/sealant once a year. The trick is to not touch the paint that much and you will not have swirls or scratches to remove.
I washed it once every other week.
1. Blue Clean AR383 pressure washer to spray off all the dirt and dust off the car.
2. Foam with Chemical Guy's Honeydew Snow foam car wash
3. Microfiber sponge to wash the car, use a water bucket to rinse sponge, use a different sponge for the wheels.
4. Rinse with pressure washer
5. Use Toro electric leaf blower to dry the car.
6. Use microfiber cloth to dry hard to reach spots
This whole process takes 35-40 minutes, I do most of my drying with a leaf blower, this helps with swirls.
Once a year, I do all the above but
7. Claybar
8. Rinse with pressure washer
9. Swirl remover with orbital polisher
10. Seal with Klasse auto sealant by hand
Before the leaf blower method, I used to dry with a huge microfiber cloth and I would have to remove swirls twice a year. I also think it's important to invest in a pressure washer. Your normal hose and a nozzle isn't enough pressure to blast all the dirt and grime off the car. And when you go to wash it, that dirt will cause swirls. I've been able to keep swirls off my car for the last couple of years. It used to drive me crazy.
I washed it once every other week.
1. Blue Clean AR383 pressure washer to spray off all the dirt and dust off the car.
2. Foam with Chemical Guy's Honeydew Snow foam car wash
3. Microfiber sponge to wash the car, use a water bucket to rinse sponge, use a different sponge for the wheels.
4. Rinse with pressure washer
5. Use Toro electric leaf blower to dry the car.
6. Use microfiber cloth to dry hard to reach spots
This whole process takes 35-40 minutes, I do most of my drying with a leaf blower, this helps with swirls.
Once a year, I do all the above but
7. Claybar
8. Rinse with pressure washer
9. Swirl remover with orbital polisher
10. Seal with Klasse auto sealant by hand
Before the leaf blower method, I used to dry with a huge microfiber cloth and I would have to remove swirls twice a year. I also think it's important to invest in a pressure washer. Your normal hose and a nozzle isn't enough pressure to blast all the dirt and grime off the car. And when you go to wash it, that dirt will cause swirls. I've been able to keep swirls off my car for the last couple of years. It used to drive me crazy.
11-06-2016, 01:16 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
We kind of LOL because my dad gave me the cheap seats buffer back in the day (my dad is a partner at a few car dealerships, so on occasion the connection pays off, and no, Porsche isn't one of them) and one day he came over and gave me this weird looking blower/dryer device that someone was trying to market. It uses an extremely powerful weed eater barracuda blower with this "air wand" attachment. The attachment has a piece of felt on the end so it doesn't scratch paint if you contact the car. Ironically I have had this unit kicking around for about 10 years and have never used it, but I will soon. The things is crazy powerful
11-06-2016, 02:46 AM
#37
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
RodH -
There are a ton of great videos that can help. I like Larry's at AMMONYC (https://www.ammonyc.com/det-categories/drive/) as well as the Junkman:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP-eAddv2sk
The Junkman has a series of 4 videos (over 2 hours total) that explains in detail how to correct car paint. He uses a Porter (though he also owns better quality DA polishers). His point is that technique trumps the tool. Sure that there is some truth to that but also think you get what you pay for so am not trying to debate Porter versus Flex versus Rupes.
In the video he is able to do a pretty good job correcting paint on a car hood that he stands on and scratches all up with his boots (it is his beater car - so he was just doing it to prove a point of how to get out scratches)
I would really suggest watching some of his videos, he is pretty entertaining though a bit long winded. But you will learn a lot. He even has a video on how to watch his videos...sounds a bit crazy but was worthwhile.
thanks
There are a ton of great videos that can help. I like Larry's at AMMONYC (https://www.ammonyc.com/det-categories/drive/) as well as the Junkman:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP-eAddv2sk
The Junkman has a series of 4 videos (over 2 hours total) that explains in detail how to correct car paint. He uses a Porter (though he also owns better quality DA polishers). His point is that technique trumps the tool. Sure that there is some truth to that but also think you get what you pay for so am not trying to debate Porter versus Flex versus Rupes.
In the video he is able to do a pretty good job correcting paint on a car hood that he stands on and scratches all up with his boots (it is his beater car - so he was just doing it to prove a point of how to get out scratches)
I would really suggest watching some of his videos, he is pretty entertaining though a bit long winded. But you will learn a lot. He even has a video on how to watch his videos...sounds a bit crazy but was worthwhile.
thanks
11-06-2016, 02:51 AM
#38
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
RodH -
There are a ton of great videos that can help. I like Larry's at AMMONYC (https://www.ammonyc.com/det-categories/drive/) as well as the Junkman:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP-eAddv2sk
The Junkman has a series of 4 videos (over 2 hours total) that explains in detail how to correct car paint. He uses a Porter (though he also owns better quality DA polishers). His point is that technique trumps the tool. Sure that there is some truth to that but also think you get what you pay for so am not trying to debate Porter versus Flex versus Rupes.
In the video he is able to do a pretty good job correcting paint on a car hood that he stands on and scratches all up with his boots (it is his beater car - so he was just doing it to prove a point of how to get out scratches)
I would really suggest watching some of his videos, he is pretty entertaining though a bit long winded. But you will learn a lot. He even has a video on how to watch his videos...sounds a bit crazy but was worthwhile.
thanks
There are a ton of great videos that can help. I like Larry's at AMMONYC (https://www.ammonyc.com/det-categories/drive/) as well as the Junkman:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP-eAddv2sk
The Junkman has a series of 4 videos (over 2 hours total) that explains in detail how to correct car paint. He uses a Porter (though he also owns better quality DA polishers). His point is that technique trumps the tool. Sure that there is some truth to that but also think you get what you pay for so am not trying to debate Porter versus Flex versus Rupes.
In the video he is able to do a pretty good job correcting paint on a car hood that he stands on and scratches all up with his boots (it is his beater car - so he was just doing it to prove a point of how to get out scratches)
I would really suggest watching some of his videos, he is pretty entertaining though a bit long winded. But you will learn a lot. He even has a video on how to watch his videos...sounds a bit crazy but was worthwhile.
thanks
i did find this graph to help with the confusion (although I bought some groits polish that says it's a light swirl remover and of course that product isn't listed on this graph and the product on this graph isn't listed on the groits website, so it looks like I may need to go back and return it and get McGuires 105 and 205 and then do some more research for the final stages to wax and seal the paint
11-07-2016, 01:54 PM
#39
My wife doesn't think I'm crazy, she's used to my craziness. My neighbors definitely think so, they are not as passionate about cars as I am. I left a step out of my washing routine. I used a california squeegee to remove all the water before I dry it with a leaf blower.
11-07-2016, 03:26 PM
#40
Mothers Clay, Blackfire detailer is great, along with Blackfire carnuba, finish off with some super 777 synthetic. California blade is good for wicking water quickly.
11-15-2016, 11:38 AM
#41
There are a million ways to properly detail a car; pick your own poison.
I live in deep south Texas with year-around heat, year around bugs and year around sun. We can drive our Pcars 365 days a year down here.
I put roughly 6,000 miles on the car per year.
1. Yearly: take the car down to the clear coat by using clay bar with lube, Rupes random orbitals and then wash and wax.
2. When needed, Pinnacle clay bar w lube then re-wax
3. Monthly or so - wash with chemical guys wash (any good "soft" car wash works)
4. If needed, Pinnacle Clay bar with Mothers "Spray Detailer" for lube
5. Wash again to rinse off lube
6. Blow dry with Red Devil blower and super absorbent car dying cloth
5. Wax with either DoDo Juice Supernatural, Collinite 476S Wax or P21S (of these waxes, DoDo Juice Supernatural looks the best, Collinite is the longest lasting and P21S looks great and does not leave white wax residue on black plastic or rubber.)
Keep shifting...
I live in deep south Texas with year-around heat, year around bugs and year around sun. We can drive our Pcars 365 days a year down here.
I put roughly 6,000 miles on the car per year.
1. Yearly: take the car down to the clear coat by using clay bar with lube, Rupes random orbitals and then wash and wax.
2. When needed, Pinnacle clay bar w lube then re-wax
3. Monthly or so - wash with chemical guys wash (any good "soft" car wash works)
4. If needed, Pinnacle Clay bar with Mothers "Spray Detailer" for lube
5. Wash again to rinse off lube
6. Blow dry with Red Devil blower and super absorbent car dying cloth
5. Wax with either DoDo Juice Supernatural, Collinite 476S Wax or P21S (of these waxes, DoDo Juice Supernatural looks the best, Collinite is the longest lasting and P21S looks great and does not leave white wax residue on black plastic or rubber.)
Keep shifting...
11-15-2016, 12:44 PM
#42
mezerna sealant - once/twice a year.
Grio's Wax - 4-6 times a year.
Grio's Spray Wax - After every light wash.
303 Protectant interior - Satin finish.
Meguiar's Ultimate interior - for slightly more shine.
Wheels(rubber) - coverall. it's a deep lasting silicone. silicone does not harm your rubber.
I'm still looking for a wheel alloy sealant. People seem to like the Armorall one, so I'll probably give that a go next year.
Grio's Wax - 4-6 times a year.
Grio's Spray Wax - After every light wash.
303 Protectant interior - Satin finish.
Meguiar's Ultimate interior - for slightly more shine.
Wheels(rubber) - coverall. it's a deep lasting silicone. silicone does not harm your rubber.
I'm still looking for a wheel alloy sealant. People seem to like the Armorall one, so I'll probably give that a go next year.
11-16-2016, 05:46 PM
#43
Instructor
I had the car professionally paint corrected in the spring, and have been trying to maintain this finish. After the correction, it was sealed with CQuartz. The wheels were also sealed, so they are much easier to clean than they used to be.
This full routine is done if the car has gotten wet, and the dirt and brake dust has dried on it. If the car is only dusty and hasn't gotten wet, I cheat. I just pressure rinse the wheels, rinse the rest of the car, foam the whole car (including the wheels) and then rinse. When I do this, I dry the whole car using the blower and will only use towels on the jambs. I can get away with this "quickie wash" about half the time.
I use:
My process is as follows:
This full routine is done if the car has gotten wet, and the dirt and brake dust has dried on it. If the car is only dusty and hasn't gotten wet, I cheat. I just pressure rinse the wheels, rinse the rest of the car, foam the whole car (including the wheels) and then rinse. When I do this, I dry the whole car using the blower and will only use towels on the jambs. I can get away with this "quickie wash" about half the time.
I use:
- 2700psi gas pressure washer (with the correct tip)
- MJJC foam cannon (same as the one Chemical Guys sells under their brand)
- three buckets with grid guards (soap, water, and wheels)
- two chenille wash mitts (one for bottom 6-12 inches of the car only, another for the rest)
- GardenHome compact blower (same as the Chemical Guys VX6 blower but red)
- large "Nevada Desert" waffle weave drying towel,
- Wheel Woolies (version "B" with the longer handle for the medium brush),
- smaller, cheap chenille mitt for the wheel faces,
- bunch of cheap MF towels for door jambs, under the engine hood, and the wheels.
- generic tire dressing sponge
- rags
- Meguiar's Gold Class wash in the foam cannon
- Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss in the wheel bucket
- CarPro Reset in the cash soap bucket
- Chemical Guys Speed Wipe quick detailer to lubricate the drying process
- Chemical Guys VRP to dress the tires and the little plastic spoilers under the car
My process is as follows:
- rinse wheels
- spray wheels with foam cannon, rinse
- lightly scrub with Wheel Woolies, mitt, rinse
- spray entire car with foam cannon, let soak for 5 minutes, rinse
- two-bucket wash, rinse
- dry with waffle weave towel and Speed Wipe, hitting all nooks & crannies, badges with the blower
- dry jambs, etc with cheap MF towels
- blow tires & wheels dry with a little help from cheap MF towels
- dress tires with VRP, wipe dry with rags.
11-16-2016, 08:54 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I had the car professionally paint corrected in the spring, and have been trying to maintain this finish. After the correction, it was sealed with CQuartz. The wheels were also sealed, so they are much easier to clean than they used to be.
This full routine is done if the car has gotten wet, and the dirt and brake dust has dried on it. If the car is only dusty and hasn't gotten wet, I cheat. I just pressure rinse the wheels, rinse the rest of the car, foam the whole car (including the wheels) and then rinse. When I do this, I dry the whole car using the blower and will only use towels on the jambs. I can get away with this "quickie wash" about half the time.
I use:
My process is as follows:
This full routine is done if the car has gotten wet, and the dirt and brake dust has dried on it. If the car is only dusty and hasn't gotten wet, I cheat. I just pressure rinse the wheels, rinse the rest of the car, foam the whole car (including the wheels) and then rinse. When I do this, I dry the whole car using the blower and will only use towels on the jambs. I can get away with this "quickie wash" about half the time.
I use:
- 2700psi gas pressure washer (with the correct tip)
- MJJC foam cannon (same as the one Chemical Guys sells under their brand)
- three buckets with grid guards (soap, water, and wheels)
- two chenille wash mitts (one for bottom 6-12 inches of the car only, another for the rest)
- GardenHome compact blower (same as the Chemical Guys VX6 blower but red)
- large "Nevada Desert" waffle weave drying towel,
- Wheel Woolies (version "B" with the longer handle for the medium brush),
- smaller, cheap chenille mitt for the wheel faces,
- bunch of cheap MF towels for door jambs, under the engine hood, and the wheels.
- generic tire dressing sponge
- rags
- Meguiar's Gold Class wash in the foam cannon
- Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss in the wheel bucket
- CarPro Reset in the cash soap bucket
- Chemical Guys Speed Wipe quick detailer to lubricate the drying process
- Chemical Guys VRP to dress the tires and the little plastic spoilers under the car
My process is as follows:
- rinse wheels
- spray wheels with foam cannon, rinse
- lightly scrub with Wheel Woolies, mitt, rinse
- spray entire car with foam cannon, let soak for 5 minutes, rinse
- two-bucket wash, rinse
- dry with waffle weave towel and Speed Wipe, hitting all nooks & crannies, badges with the blower
- dry jambs, etc with cheap MF towels
- blow tires & wheels dry with a little help from cheap MF towels
- dress tires with VRP, wipe dry with rags.
I actually have a few good Waffle Weaves and MF towels that are supposed to arrive tomorrow. Still looking for a good car wash solution, so thanks for your suggestion. I don't have a high pressure washer, but I do have a compressor and some type of gun that mixes water, the compressor air and soap. I have had it for over 10 years but only used it a few times. I think it will kind of do the same thing. Dusted off my leave blower tool.
I am leaning towards CQuartz, any opinions there?
11-17-2016, 02:56 AM
#45
Im a simple man. I take the car to the self car wash, drop in a few bucks and use the spotless rinse. Never use the brush.
When washing at home, I have a spigot that puts out stupid high pressure. Ill rinse it down, let sit 5-10 minutes. Spray it down again with the high pressure hose and then hit with the leaf blower.
We have two Jags, a Range Rover, the 997 and a Testarossa. All white. White hides a lot of blemishes across the board. Once a year, I will clay bar mild buff and wax.
The TR is on a lighter wash schedule......once or twice a year.
Interiors get simple water with Meguires Leather cleaner and microfiber cloth for glass. Plastic parts get a little Armour All interior cleaner to keep moist.
Engine compartments are mostly some watered down Simple green in a spray bottle or that stuff that smells like oranges and water.
Main thing is, I really try to avoid touching the paint whether its washing or drying. High pressure water and a leaf blower. Anytime you physically touch the paint by anything besides a cutting or polishing compound...its gonna leave a mark, period. I learned a long time ago that you want to go from the least aggressive to aggressive regarding products.
Cars......Water and the mildest of detergents. Gophers in the back yard.......Thermite their godless souls back to extinction Carl Spackler style.
When washing at home, I have a spigot that puts out stupid high pressure. Ill rinse it down, let sit 5-10 minutes. Spray it down again with the high pressure hose and then hit with the leaf blower.
We have two Jags, a Range Rover, the 997 and a Testarossa. All white. White hides a lot of blemishes across the board. Once a year, I will clay bar mild buff and wax.
The TR is on a lighter wash schedule......once or twice a year.
Interiors get simple water with Meguires Leather cleaner and microfiber cloth for glass. Plastic parts get a little Armour All interior cleaner to keep moist.
Engine compartments are mostly some watered down Simple green in a spray bottle or that stuff that smells like oranges and water.
Main thing is, I really try to avoid touching the paint whether its washing or drying. High pressure water and a leaf blower. Anytime you physically touch the paint by anything besides a cutting or polishing compound...its gonna leave a mark, period. I learned a long time ago that you want to go from the least aggressive to aggressive regarding products.
Cars......Water and the mildest of detergents. Gophers in the back yard.......Thermite their godless souls back to extinction Carl Spackler style.