Oil Level Indicator
#1
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Oil Level Indicator
On my very long road trip I noticed that the oil level indicator was slightly over two bars unless going up or down a hill. It would then fluctuate. Educate me.
#4
Sir Thomas Lord of All Mets Fans
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Navy Horn... Try to get into habit of checking oil when you fill up. That usually takes care of the hot, stationary and level requirements...T
#5
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I don't have a 997.2 and my oil measurement system is different so I'm only guessing here...
Usually oil needs to be measured on a flat surface because the oil can move away from the sensor.
I would imagine a corner would have the same effect.
On the 997.1 the oil needs to be to temp and the car off. It varies a bit but if you get in the habit of always doing it the same way, you'll get a better picture of what's going on. I always do it when I get gas.
Usually oil needs to be measured on a flat surface because the oil can move away from the sensor.
I would imagine a corner would have the same effect.
On the 997.1 the oil needs to be to temp and the car off. It varies a bit but if you get in the habit of always doing it the same way, you'll get a better picture of what's going on. I always do it when I get gas.
#7
Idk why but there seems to be a controversy over when to check the oil. All my life everyone always checked oil warm, but allowing enough time for it all to drain back into the crankcase. So, at the end of a gas fillup.
The booklet that came with my RND M96 engine says: "Only perform checks of the engine oil level with the engine at ambient temperature. If the oil is checked when warm it will not show an accurate level and the engine can easily be overfilled with oil "
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#8
RL Community Team
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Correct. 997.1 oil level should be checked with the engine cold before you leave the garage each time. Readings taken during a fuel stop will read either too high (since the oil swells up when warm) or too low if it all hasn't returned to the crankcase. Checking it hot and ending up with too much oil will kill your AOS in no time.
The DFI engine aredifferent and need to be checked warm.
The DFI engine aredifferent and need to be checked warm.
#9
confused yet navy? I know from your previous post you have a 2010 car, which makes it a 997.2.
my original post still holds: engine/oil to operating temp, engine idling, car stationary, level surface. I like to keep my crankcase at the full (all bars showing) but NOT overfilled-of course.
once I get one bar low (approx. 1/2 quart) I add a little at a time until I get that last bar showing, and no more.
I will idle, check and if it shows full, I will wait to double check about 30 seconds. sometimes the indicator will show full but if re checked it will go to final settle point and read one bar low. if it does this I will TRIPLE check, to verify this lower reading. it always stays consistent at that point (i.e., one bar low) if it were to jump back up, I would be distrustful of the gauge.
this system works for me. I am a little **** regarding fluid levels in my cars, esp. the expensive ones.
do you have the owner's manual?
my original post still holds: engine/oil to operating temp, engine idling, car stationary, level surface. I like to keep my crankcase at the full (all bars showing) but NOT overfilled-of course.
once I get one bar low (approx. 1/2 quart) I add a little at a time until I get that last bar showing, and no more.
I will idle, check and if it shows full, I will wait to double check about 30 seconds. sometimes the indicator will show full but if re checked it will go to final settle point and read one bar low. if it does this I will TRIPLE check, to verify this lower reading. it always stays consistent at that point (i.e., one bar low) if it were to jump back up, I would be distrustful of the gauge.
this system works for me. I am a little **** regarding fluid levels in my cars, esp. the expensive ones.
do you have the owner's manual?
#10
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Is there a particular brand of oil that you like, and when/how much do you add, etc.?
#11
Sir Thomas Lord of All Mets Fans
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Originally Posted by Petza914
Correct. 997.1 oil level should be checked with the engine cold before you leave the garage each time. Readings taken during a fuel stop will read either too high (since the oil swells up when warm) or too low if it all hasn't returned to the crankcase. Checking it hot and ending up with too much oil will kill your AOS in no time.
The DFI engine aredifferent and need to be checked warm.
The DFI engine aredifferent and need to be checked warm.
T
#12
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That's what this forum is for. So elieviate small panic attacks ;-)
i like Motul XCess 8100 5w/40. Prepare for this thread to go to 13 pages now btw.
adding it depends on you. Some cars burn more oil than others. Some run harder on twisty roads so lower levels are needed to avoid AIS issues. I like to keep mine right in the middle and only add a 1/4 quart at a time. Some people wait until the add oil light come on and then they add a full quart.
i like Motul XCess 8100 5w/40. Prepare for this thread to go to 13 pages now btw.
adding it depends on you. Some cars burn more oil than others. Some run harder on twisty roads so lower levels are needed to avoid AIS issues. I like to keep mine right in the middle and only add a 1/4 quart at a time. Some people wait until the add oil light come on and then they add a full quart.
#14
I am in a warm/temperate climate, at first I used just mobil 1 0w40. now I use about 50/50 mobil 1 5/50 and 0/40. there are a lot of choices/preferences. check on recent posts, there are tons regarding this.
I was sure confused about how you were checking oil LEVEL on the fly! makes sense now.
I was sure confused about how you were checking oil LEVEL on the fly! makes sense now.