bgoetz

Yeah I don’t think anyone needs to tell you but that looks bad, like don’t drive until fixed bad. If you scoped from both the top and bottom and didn’t see some serious scoring you are not looking hard enough or you spun a bearing. A 3rd radiator, low temp thermostat, and X51 baffle are minimum entry for track time on these cars.

rtl5009

that oil has the cylinder soup color. once you get that level of metal it is just killing everything.

advrider1967

I have a theory, and its based on my own experiences with my 2009 C2 Base PDK with 65K. You have an injector that is not closing. DFI injectors with "higher miles" can hang open and you will get massive fuel washing of that cylinder, misfires on every stroke, clogged (or melted) CAT etc. The failure of the injector is abrupt, and without warning. Iv'e seen this in Porsches, Mercs, VWs- anything with DFI. The telltale will be to examine the injector in the cylinder that set the most misfires. The tip will be black and furry vs one that closes, which will be light grey/tan. The leak can be so bad, the DME will set codes for rail pressure too low!

As you probably know by now- you are looking at a complete engine/overhaul. Once all that metal, aluminium or not, has been pumped through the engine, you cannot trust any part inside the engine. Budget for 6 new injectors as well. A serious bummer, and my heart goes out to you.

thesandog5

Thanks for the feedback. I was just wondering if there were other early indicators. I will do the bumper removal and check more closely. I have scheduled an LN Engineering Low Temp thermostat for install in a couple of weeks. The water pump was already replaced by the previous owner at 74K miles. Enjoying the drive almost daily!

997ajk

Have a friend with bore scoring in a 2016 Cayman 981 (base 9A1 motor) - just out of warranty with 80K + km - misfire and scored bore , followed all recommendations.

Cold weather seems to have alot more of these issues then warm weather countries - I wonder if our 91 octane is also to blame.

Flat6 Innovations

Thank winter blend fuels… This years there’s 40+ different blends in the lower 48 states.

Carreralicious

When you say winter blend fuels, do you mean the ethanol mixed fuels, and if so, does using something like Injector Defender every so often help negate that potential damage?

Flat6 Innovations

Nope, fuel blends change in the late fall and spring. We see huge differences in engine output and emissions as soon as the fuel changes. I can smell the difference on the dyno to the point that we can pinpoint to the week that it has changed.

Engines will instantly change when it comes to their BSFC and fueling values. Ethanol is just one ingredient in modern fuels, and isn’t even the worst.

Carreralicious

Thanks, so if there’s recommended oil to use for our cars, is there a recommended gas brand, or are we basically SOL regardless of brand used? 😁

rtl5009

Shell 93

Flat6 Innovations

Brand doesn’t matter… She’ll seems to be the most stable, but it all sucks.

Nine9Se7en_YYC

In my (very) short tenure of ownership with my '05 C2 I've noticed more carbon (soot) on the left exhaust tip than the right...considerably more. Initially I had hoped it's just condensation as it looked like it was "watery" and the byproduct of a garage queen not stretching its legs on a regular basis, but I'd rather be sure so the car is back at the dealer to be scoped. Especially since this only happens on the left side. I've taken it to the dealer as they have agreed to investigate this further and cover costs of diagnosis since I only took delivery <4 weeks ago.

Some back story: This particular car came to me through my local Porsche Centre in Calgary and was inspected prior to my taking delivery. The IMS Bearing was replaced by the previous owner last spring and a borescope was completed at that time showing no concerns. It only just rolled over 20K Kms; I've managed to take advantage of warm weather and dry roads to put ~1250 KMs on since my purchase. I've ONLY taken the car out when the temps are warm...er (-5c is the lowest I've driven the car) and have been VERY cautious to follow the guided warm up procedure - ie: never rev past 3k until the oil is up to 90c/200f, no lugging the engine, etc. As well, in my ownership i've only run 94 octane; though I appreciate its a winter blend.

As for Oil consumption, it's a bit more difficult to tell but here are the facts: When I took delivery, the oil level was on the lowest bar but still within operating threshold. I checked the level a few more times while parked on the same flat area and put small amounts of oil (200ml at a time) until the level was full; doing this took 1 Liter of 0w40. Since getting the oil level up to the top, I've added another ~800ml in the 1250Kms that I've driven to keep the oil topped up. Which, as we all know is within the tolerances according to Porsche (up to 1.5L per 1000Kms), but this amount of consumption doesn't really sit well with me. If a technician scopes the car, checks plugs/coils and confirms no issues - then I'll be okay with it.

The oil consumption isn't "obscene" compared to some other owners, so I wouldn't be as concerned about this on its own. But coupled with the continued carbon/soot on the left exhaust tip, I'd rather know if there is any scoring at this point and if so, what is the severity of it. Will post and details or pics of the cylinders once I have more intel.

Thanks!

Nine9Se7en_YYC

So, I spoke with the dealer who chalked up the soot on the left exhaust tip to the AOS which they say is causing the engine to burn oil. Recommendation: Change out the AOS and spark plugs.....oh, btw there is scoring on Cyl #6. Way to bury the lead, Porshce Center X! 👌🏽

I then spoke to my indy Porsche gurus here and had a different recommendation after showing them the borescope pics. Change plugs due to the vintage at the next service with them and they will also do a deeper inspection to see if there are any preventative recommendations to minimize further scoring. As per many other members here and my own go-forward plan, I'll continue to drive and enjoy the car while planning for a rebuild in the coming years. I'm exceptionally cautious for warming the car to oil operating temp and will change plugs and install a low temp t-stat at the next service. Of course, I'll also continue to track/record oil consumption.

I'm not going to let this sour or sully my experience with the brand or my first Pcar. It drives so well (for now) and is such a joy to own, I'm happy to wrap my head around the price to rebuild in the next few years as I intend on keeping this car for the long-term.

Here's a pic of Cyl #6, along with what looks like some "light" scoring on #4 and #5 as well possibly?

Lateralgrip

Life is short. Mechanical S&!t breaks wether at 24k or 98k etc. My car made it to 98k miles and no bore score or ims instead she had a main bearing failure and put a hole in the block. Luckily I bought a warranty. Unfortunately now I wait until she is back on the road.

Enjoy!!

roadie13

Kudos for your positive attitude! But isn't the Porsche dealer who sold you the car going to step up to the plate and offer to buy the car back or some other
compensation?
Many would consider a total engine rebuild close to a total loss of the car, financially.