Doug H

IMS? Sucks brother. Was this a 997.1 3.6 or 3.8?

capman71

It is a Carrera S 3.8. Gen I.

UPDATE: It is back again at the workshop. Same problem with cylinder 3. So, one oil separator change, one engine rebuild and two piston changes in 2000 km...
...AND, btw, the large water pipe wasn't properly attached after the first cylinder change, so I dropped all water on the highway after 200 km. - Weird thing is the specialist I use is very well regarded in my area.

capman71

Hi, it is a Carrera S 3.8, Gen I. Loved the car - despite the battery issues and Navi being a bit erratic - until the scoring and subsequent cylinder 3 issues.

911 Cabrio 4S

Hello,

May I ask how much it cost to replace or fix engine.

911 Cabrio 4S

May I ask the cost of the PPI and bore scoring.

capman71

I was quoted DKK 100'000 (Euro 13'500) incl. IMS replacement; paid a bit less as the garage initially had overlooked the problem and just changed the oil separator.

jerryrocks

Please include details of your car and engine if it failed (997.1 or 997.2) and when. I purchased my 2006 C2S in 2019 from a dealer in Virgnia. One previous owner in Baltimore. I noticed white smoke and high oil consumption and was able to contact the PO once I received the title. He told me he had the engine rebuilt in 2016 and gave me the name of the mechanic. I then spoke with the mechanic and he sent me the complete service history, including the $30k for the rebuild. Sent to L&N for boring it out to 4L and new coatings. All new internals. The PO then mostly had the car sit for three years (2k miles). I had my mechanic do a leak down and everything checked out, save the oil consumption of about a quart every 200 miles. I then used liquimoly (both oil and gas treatment), along with a couple of quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil and a triple treatment of Seafoam. Drove it hard. I mean hard. Took it on the 5 between San Diego and OC right after the lockdown and averaged 125 with plenty of changes in RPM. Changed the oil after 2k on the change in January of this year and am now burning a quart every 500. White smoke only once since the latest change. Will continue to change every 2k with LiquiMoly oil and gas treatments.

I do not know what caused the original failure at 33k miles. My guess is lack of driving and too many long periods of inactivity. She's a bit of a rescue in that I had to replace the headlamps, tires, windshield, AOS, alternator, plugs, bonnet paint, paint restoration, ceramic sealant, window trim, etc. Runs too good to believe. Black/Black, PASM, PCCB, PSE, 16 way full leather, factory short throw, and of course lobster fork 19's. Just turned 38k miles on the chassis with almost 5k on the motor. This is my 5th 911 and is by far my favorite.

Lucky the PO took care of the rebuild needless to say. He sold it to CarMax as it kept throwing the CEL. Turned out to be the valve lift hydraulic solenoids. The PO was 500 away from having a sound car.

Charles Navarro

If you have paperwork for what was done for the install of the new engine before you took ownership, I'd recommend looking at fuel trims. If they are off by more than 5%, that's likely not helping the oil consumption issue. I would also smoke test the engine to look for vacuum leaks as small ones can affect fuel trims but not cause a CEL.

More than likely, bore scoring is what took the original engine out. There is a serial number on the block that we can use to trace who we did the block for and when, if you did want to know. We likely have photos of the block when it came in.

The biggest issues we see is that shops focus on the internals and the longblock itself and then skip changing injectors, MAF, primary o2 sensors, etc. - all of which affect fuel trims and can cause damage to the new engine, as new engines are extremely susceptible to fuel washdown. The other big mistake is shops either don't break the engine in right or switch to synthetic too soon. Both happen often enough that we had to come up with what we call a "corrective break-in procedure" to try to undo the damage caused. It can take thousands of miles to get the rings to seal up and get oil consumption back into what I would consider an acceptable range without having to pull the engine apart to de-glaze the bores and re-ring it.

jerryrocks

Thanks Charles - where on the engine block can I find the serial number? I can provide you the VIN here - WP0AB29906S740897. I already have been provided (by you) the corrective break-in procedures.

Charles Navarro

We do not typically receive the VIN when doing blocks. Depending on how long ago the block was done, you might be able to find the serial number on the chain well area on the bottom of the block where the IMS shaft is. The other location is up on the part of the block casting where the starter goes. That one will be very hard to get to.

997ajk

997.2 - 55k miles / 90k km
C4 PDK 3.6 9A1, Southern Ontario Canada with alot of cold starts, since stored outside and daily driven.
Motor replaced by Porsche

T4S

Here are some photos, sorry for delay all. Had cylinder 1 scoring and replacement engine done. I opted for new injectors but I'm reading above the need to change the o2 sensor - and what is MAP?
I am experiencing abnormal smokey starts and idle isn't as steady as you'd expect. About 850 miles driven - pulls smooth and runs better than scored.

Charles Navarro

We recommend replacing the injectors, primary o2 sensors, and mass air flow sensors. It's also a must to have the engine smoke tested to ensure you don't have any vacuum leaks that could lead to over-enrichment that can wash down the cylinder bores.

The shop putting the engine in should have also done a vehicle handover before first start to wipe out all the learned adaptations prior to the failure.

MaksymKramarenko

No failure.
997.1 c4s 2006
Ukraine, so +30C summer -30C winter (not the last one), moderate humidity.
65k km
no winter rides.

Sporty

Yakshimyish