My Sharkwerks Center Exhaust Install - 997.2
03-19-2016, 08:59 PM
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My Sharkwerks Center Exhaust Install - 997.2
Bought a never-installed Sharkwerks center exhaust from a fellow RL member and installed it this past week on my 997.2 2010 Carrera S. My car also has PSE (always on - no electronics installed).
I read most of the center exhaust swap posts on the 997 forum to prepare for the install. Many of the posts for the 997.2's are from when the cars were new to the owners. This point is notable because many of the posts didn't have to deal with corroded fasteners like I did and what I did to avoid this issue going forward.
My car is a 2010 with 25k miles on it. Miles and age conspire together in a detrimental manner on Porsche stock (i.e. steel) exhaust fasteners.
The three fasteners between the cat flange and the center exhaust flange on each side plus the two fasteners on each of the coupling sleeves between the side exhausts and the center exhaust (total of 10 fasteners) were all corroded. Despite using PB Blaster, 8 of the 10 snapped in half immediately, one rounded off without snapping and one nut actually came off. See pics of the broken fasteners. The one that rounded off was one of the four coupling sleeve nuts. I had to use my Dremel and various cutoff blades and carbide tips to finally cut the "nut" from the bolt.
Once I finally freed the stock center exhaust, I had to deal with the 6 splined and pressed in bolts in the cats flanges. To get access to these fastener heads, I had to undo the two nuts securing the side exhausts and was able to rotate the side exhausts in a way to allow access to the cat flanges. I basically rotated the tips straight down. I know I could have removed the side exhausts (and should have in retrospect), but there is enough room in the rear fender cavities (even with PSE) to rotate them.
With clear access to the bare cat flanges, I used my BFH (big f_____g hammer) to hammer out the splined studs. You can't be bashful with these bolts - gotta whack them out.
With the prep finally done, I had to figure a way to re-fasten the SW center exhaust to the cat flanges. I bought some high quality ARP stainless fasteners (good stuff) and ARP 12-point stainless nuts for the job. I bought a pack of ARP 761-1003 stainless M8 x 1.25 30mm length hex head bolts and a pack of 771-1005 stainless M8 x 1.25 40mm length 12pt head bolts. The nuts are ARP 400-8310 12 pt stainless nuts. About $100 worth of fasteners - good stuff costs. The reason I needed 2 different length bolts is because there is a bracket that ties together the side exhaust with the bolted flanges between the cat and center exhaust - locks in the 3 pieces together so they don't rattle or touch each other. These brackets are sandwiched between 2 of the 3 bolts on each side. The longer bolts are needed to clear the extra thickness of the brackets. When you do the work, you will see. NOTE - in the pics below, the shiny copper flange gaskets show the ARP bolts all in place from the cats toward the rear - that was before I realized the brackets would force me to use longer bolts and turning the bolts the opposite direction.
The stock splined and pressed-in bolts are inserted from the cat toward the rear of the car. These 2 longer 40mm bolts won't fit because of clearance issues with the cat pipes, so I simply turned the bolts around to feed from the rear toward the cats.
I liberally applied copper anti-seize to all fasteners including the new replacement coupling sleeves to avoid a similar corrosion fate if I ever need to remove the SW unit. Note that I did not replace the stock OEM fasteners that come with the coupling sleeves as access to the bolt heads would be very difficult.
Note that regarding the metal gasket between the cats and the center exhaust, I had a pair of same size diameter racing copper gaskets that I used instead of new OEM flange gaskets. Also, the strap brackets shown in the pics below are not used with the SW center exhaust and should not be in the pics.
Pics are below. I suppose many who now want to replace their center exhausts may have a similar experience with corroded and broken fasteners.
The SW center exhaust coupled with the PSE has a noticeable sound, particularly if you get on 1st - 4th gears in the 3,500 - 5,000 rpm range. In minivan/date mode - straight PDK shifting, the sound is quite normal.
Al
Atlanta
I read most of the center exhaust swap posts on the 997 forum to prepare for the install. Many of the posts for the 997.2's are from when the cars were new to the owners. This point is notable because many of the posts didn't have to deal with corroded fasteners like I did and what I did to avoid this issue going forward.
My car is a 2010 with 25k miles on it. Miles and age conspire together in a detrimental manner on Porsche stock (i.e. steel) exhaust fasteners.
The three fasteners between the cat flange and the center exhaust flange on each side plus the two fasteners on each of the coupling sleeves between the side exhausts and the center exhaust (total of 10 fasteners) were all corroded. Despite using PB Blaster, 8 of the 10 snapped in half immediately, one rounded off without snapping and one nut actually came off. See pics of the broken fasteners. The one that rounded off was one of the four coupling sleeve nuts. I had to use my Dremel and various cutoff blades and carbide tips to finally cut the "nut" from the bolt.
Once I finally freed the stock center exhaust, I had to deal with the 6 splined and pressed in bolts in the cats flanges. To get access to these fastener heads, I had to undo the two nuts securing the side exhausts and was able to rotate the side exhausts in a way to allow access to the cat flanges. I basically rotated the tips straight down. I know I could have removed the side exhausts (and should have in retrospect), but there is enough room in the rear fender cavities (even with PSE) to rotate them.
With clear access to the bare cat flanges, I used my BFH (big f_____g hammer) to hammer out the splined studs. You can't be bashful with these bolts - gotta whack them out.
With the prep finally done, I had to figure a way to re-fasten the SW center exhaust to the cat flanges. I bought some high quality ARP stainless fasteners (good stuff) and ARP 12-point stainless nuts for the job. I bought a pack of ARP 761-1003 stainless M8 x 1.25 30mm length hex head bolts and a pack of 771-1005 stainless M8 x 1.25 40mm length 12pt head bolts. The nuts are ARP 400-8310 12 pt stainless nuts. About $100 worth of fasteners - good stuff costs. The reason I needed 2 different length bolts is because there is a bracket that ties together the side exhaust with the bolted flanges between the cat and center exhaust - locks in the 3 pieces together so they don't rattle or touch each other. These brackets are sandwiched between 2 of the 3 bolts on each side. The longer bolts are needed to clear the extra thickness of the brackets. When you do the work, you will see. NOTE - in the pics below, the shiny copper flange gaskets show the ARP bolts all in place from the cats toward the rear - that was before I realized the brackets would force me to use longer bolts and turning the bolts the opposite direction.
The stock splined and pressed-in bolts are inserted from the cat toward the rear of the car. These 2 longer 40mm bolts won't fit because of clearance issues with the cat pipes, so I simply turned the bolts around to feed from the rear toward the cats.
I liberally applied copper anti-seize to all fasteners including the new replacement coupling sleeves to avoid a similar corrosion fate if I ever need to remove the SW unit. Note that I did not replace the stock OEM fasteners that come with the coupling sleeves as access to the bolt heads would be very difficult.
Note that regarding the metal gasket between the cats and the center exhaust, I had a pair of same size diameter racing copper gaskets that I used instead of new OEM flange gaskets. Also, the strap brackets shown in the pics below are not used with the SW center exhaust and should not be in the pics.
Pics are below. I suppose many who now want to replace their center exhausts may have a similar experience with corroded and broken fasteners.
The SW center exhaust coupled with the PSE has a noticeable sound, particularly if you get on 1st - 4th gears in the 3,500 - 5,000 rpm range. In minivan/date mode - straight PDK shifting, the sound is quite normal.
Al
Atlanta
Last edited by AMG5PT4; 03-19-2016 at 09:21 PM.
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Darkboyz68 (01-04-2022)
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03-20-2016, 01:07 PM
#8
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Why did you have to take out your instrument cluster to change the center exhaust (first picture)? I am really surprised how weathered and corroded things are in your engine compartment with as new and as few miles your car has on it. I bought a used Sharkwerks crossover last summer and it only took me about 25 minutes to remove the center muffler and install the crossover. My car has PSE and is the same year and milage as yours and there isn't a corroded bolt or part in sight. I guess I am lucky,,,for once. Glad it all worked out for you and you are enjoying playing with the different exhaust options while driving about. It really is a nice option to have ones car pretty quite and at the push of a button enjoy Porsche's symphonic flat six. Cheers
03-20-2016, 02:40 PM
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Why did you have to take out your instrument cluster to change the center exhaust (first picture)? I am really surprised how weathered and corroded things are in your engine compartment with as new and as few miles your car has on it. I bought a used Sharkwerks crossover last summer and it only took me about 25 minutes to remove the center muffler and install the crossover. My car has PSE and is the same year and milage as yours and there isn't a corroded bolt or part in sight. I guess I am lucky,,,for once. Glad it all worked out for you and you are enjoying playing with the different exhaust options while driving about. It really is a nice option to have ones car pretty quite and at the push of a button enjoy Porsche's symphonic flat six. Cheers
Regarding the cluster comment - that cluster is from my 1984 Mercedes W126 AMG.
Al
08-25-2016, 12:33 AM
#10
Very timely post for me. I currently have the tips removed, sleeve clamps loosened, muffler clamps loose, and 2 of the 6 Cat splined studs sheered. Have special wrench on order to remove (sheer) the top studs, and the final 2 studs aren't 13mm like the other two. In fact, 11mm is too small and 12mm is too large.
Exhaust was much easier (and even less rusty) on my '02 C2.
The studs are in a bath of PB until wrench comes in. Thanks for the parts list
Exhaust was much easier (and even less rusty) on my '02 C2.
The studs are in a bath of PB until wrench comes in. Thanks for the parts list
08-25-2016, 08:53 AM
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MC,
I bought one of the dogleg ratchet wrenches talked about on other posts re: removing the top Cat nut. If you have any corrosion at all, the dogleg wrench from Craftsman won't break the nut free. I have a set of E-Z Red metric wrenchs:
http://www.ezred.com/product/5-pc-ex...ad-wrench-set/
I recall the fasteners (nuts) were 12mm? The E-Z Red wrenches are extra long and the additional torque from the long handle easily sheared/loosened the nuts. Look at it this way - the money you save DIY pays for the tools! Highly recommend these wrenches. I also used PB Blaster but most of my fasteners snapped anyway.
Use high quality stainless fasteners and Copper anti-seize.
Good luck.
I bought one of the dogleg ratchet wrenches talked about on other posts re: removing the top Cat nut. If you have any corrosion at all, the dogleg wrench from Craftsman won't break the nut free. I have a set of E-Z Red metric wrenchs:
http://www.ezred.com/product/5-pc-ex...ad-wrench-set/
I recall the fasteners (nuts) were 12mm? The E-Z Red wrenches are extra long and the additional torque from the long handle easily sheared/loosened the nuts. Look at it this way - the money you save DIY pays for the tools! Highly recommend these wrenches. I also used PB Blaster but most of my fasteners snapped anyway.
Use high quality stainless fasteners and Copper anti-seize.
Good luck.
08-25-2016, 11:20 AM
#12
AMG;
I've got one of these coming: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HBAIDG/...279120_TE_item
If that doesn't work, I guess I'm removing bumper / side mufflers to cut it out. Not looking forward to hammering the splined bolts out.
I've got one of these coming: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HBAIDG/...279120_TE_item
If that doesn't work, I guess I'm removing bumper / side mufflers to cut it out. Not looking forward to hammering the splined bolts out.
08-25-2016, 01:14 PM
#13
My install was fairly easy, I sprayed the existing fasteners with penetrating oil and was lucky enough to use the existing pressed in hardware. Those half moon ratcheting box wrenches would have been a godsend tho. My issues were the oem exhaust hangers, after I removed them, it was clear sailing. Took some finageling to get the new crossover pipe installed but all is good now!
08-25-2016, 02:37 PM
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Hopefully the half moon wrench will do the job. The ARP fasteners I mention, above, are 12pt, so the wrench should be good for that hardawre as well.
Al
Al
08-26-2016, 04:21 AM
#15
Just finished the install. Removed the bumper and had to use nut removal sockets to get the top nuts off. Bolts hammered out not too badly. Dealer provided new bolts. 30mm only... Forgot I check, so a couple new bolts tomorrow to finish it off.
Other than that, no problems. The SW pipe, where it is clamped, is not as snug as the Speedtech X I put on my 996. Not a real issue, just an observation.
Could be louder... Gunna need to Fister it ASAP.
Other than that, no problems. The SW pipe, where it is clamped, is not as snug as the Speedtech X I put on my 996. Not a real issue, just an observation.
Could be louder... Gunna need to Fister it ASAP.