frankyluis23

**********This write up is not to be used to perform maintenance, reference use only**********

I recently purchased a Meteor Grey 2007 Porsche Carrera 2S with 47,000 miles on the odometer. The vehicle came with all the maintenance records and the one thing still remaining to be accomplished was spark plug replacement. After visiting several shops and getting quoted between $500 and $750, I decided to perform the task myself, besides I am a certified aircraft mechanic. Below are the steps I took to accomplish the task…

Technical Data
1. Porsche 997 Workshop Manual - $14, eBay (PDF download)

Parts
1. Six Bosch Spark Plugs (P/N FGR5KQE0) - $12 ea.
NOTE: It is highly recommended that you use the same spark plugs as stated by the OEM.

2. Six Ignition Coils (P/N 997.602.104.00) - $75 ea.
NOTE : Replacing ignition coils is not required unless damaged or a misfire situation has occurred, inspect ignition coils thoroughly.

Tooling
1. Low profile car jack
2. Two jack stands
3. Torque wrench (ft-lbs)
4. Torx T40 apex tip
5. 5/16” wrench
6. 5/8" ball joint spark plug socket
7. 3/8” drive extension, 3”, 6” and 10”
8. Long flat head screw driver
9. 1/4” and 3/8” drive ratchet

Preparation

1. Loosen all AFT left and right wheel lug nuts.

2. Jack vehicle high enough and install two jack stands (AFT left and right).
NOTE: See workshop manual for proper jacking points.

3. Remove both rear wheels.

Removal Procedure
1. Remove heat shield. two fasteners, it is acceptable to use a 5/16” SAE wrench. Carefully maneuver the heat shield and slide it FWD, should come off easily.

2. Disconnect cable plugs. Slide coil boots up and unclip cable plug using a long flat head screw driver.

3. Disconnect cable plugs for the solenoid hydraulic valve. Removing the plug for the solenoid hydraulic valve is recommended but not required.

4. Remove ignition coils. Use a Torx T40 apex tip and a small 1/4” drive ratchet to remove fasteners. I recommend that you remove the FWD coil first for better access to the middle and AFT coils. After removing fasteners, coils should pull out. Be careful not to damage the coils during this process, space is extremely limited.

NOTE: Visually inspect the condition of the ignition coils to determine if replacement is necessary.

5. Remove spark plug(s). Use a 5/8” ball joint spark plug socket. FWD spark plug is easy, middle is difficult and AFT is extremely difficult. Use the 3/8” drive extensions and try different positions. This step takes lots of patience and determination. Use a 1/4” drive ratchet with a 3/8” adapter to remove the AFT spark plug. Space is extremely limited and requires small maneuvers. I busted my thumb doing the right side AFT spark plug.

NOTE: Visually inspect the condition of the removed spark plugs and compare them to a spark plug wear chart. This can indicate how the engine is operating.

Installation Procedure

1. Install spark plug(s). Carefully install all spark plugs using the same tools and maneuvers used during the removal process. Torque all spark plugs to 22 +2 ft-lbs. Torquing the AFT spark plugs can be very difficult, use patience and cleverness.

2. Install ignition coils. It is not required to install the ignition coils in the same cylinder from where they were removed. Install AFT coil first, middle then FWD. This step requires some maneuvering but ignition coils should slide into the hole. Give it a nice firm press to sit the coils in position. Install fasteners and torque to 7.5 ft-lbs. Torquing the AFT coil can be very difficult, use patience and cleverness. Connect ignition coil cable plugs. You should hear a snap when connecting the cable plug, this indicates that the cable plug is properly connected. Slide boot over the connector, the rubber boot should cover the entire cable plug.

3. Install solenoid hydraulic valve cable plug, if removed. I did not remove this item but the manual recommends it for ease of access.

4. Visually inspect work area and make sure fasteners are torqued and all plugs are connected. It never hurts to look and jiggle a few things.

5. Install heat shield. Slide the heat shield FWD to AFT and maneuver carefully. Install two fasteners, this is the easiest part of the entire procedure, now you can breathe again.

6. Start the vehicle. Vehicle should start immediately.

Restoration
1. Install both rear wheels with lug nuts hand tight.

2. Jack vehicle high enough to remove jack stands.

3. Lower the vehicle carefully.

4. Torque rear wheel lug nuts to 96 ft-lbs.

5. Go for a drive and enjoy.


This procedure took me 5 hours and I busted my thumb and index finger. Below are some photos, I wish I would have taken more photos but I was very focused on the task at hand. I did not need new ignition coils and therefore the entire cost for this work was $96.

vern1

Cost was more than $96. You broke 2 appendages!!! Not 1, but 2!!

I have often thought about tackling this but after reading threads like this I understand the folly of my thinking and leave it to people who get paid to risk breaking body parts !!

cerbomark

I did my 997.2 and removed exhaust... wonder what the difference is in the 997.1 and 997.2 for this job. Dealer removes bumper too I was told.
Good job!

awrryan

Thanks for the write up. Great looking car. Love the wheels.

frankyluis23

This task requires lots and lots of patience and determination. I got hurt because when I was removing the AFT spark plug it wouldn't give so I gave it some effort and it torqued loose very quickly, lol.

frankyluis23

The work instruction that I used did not require the bumper nor the exhaust to be removed. I would assume that removing those items might make the job easier. Typically, when this task is performed at the dealership, there are other items being addressed so maybe that is why they remove the bumper and exhaust.

verboten

That's why you can't believe everything on the internet, because the so called experts have never actually done it themselves.

With the money you saved can you please go and buy a nice creeper. The cardboard is so unbecoming next to your gorgeous car.

frankyluis23

Since my background is in aviation I have never been accustomed to using a creeper and I have been in wing fuel tanks, cargo pits and all sorts of places that are uncomfortable and lacking space. I guess I am just used to working with what I have.

ALEV8

sick color.

lurchphil

Beautiful Porsche! I changed the plugs and coils on my 2008 911S without removing anything more than the shields and rear wheels. My 2012 911S made it necessary to remove the mufflers for adequate access. Even so, it wasn't all that difficult - just time consuming. A couple of observations: Buy disposable gloves; use high-end cardboard, (Nieman-Marcus aka Needless-Markup are personal favorites); forget the creeper - a creeper could wedge a guy under his car for days; I always replace the coil packs - it's not always easy to tell if they are 100% and they keep getting upgraded for a reason. Pelican Parts has Beru coils for less that $38.00 each. Starting the engine after completing the coil and plug change is really rewarding. Probably psychological but isn't that why we drive a Porsche?!

Kuhl997.2!

Awesome! Great write up and pictures. Just archived this for when my car his 30k this summer.

Lahainabry

Thanks for the DIY. My finger hurts just looking at your finger.

rodH

Great job. What milage is this recommended to be performed?

Btw, who uses a creeper? I do a ton of work on my cars and the creeper just gives you less space to work. I'd rather slide on the cardboard but have an extra few inches to work.

frankyluis23

I plan on changing the coils next time regardless of their condition.

frankyluis23

Per Porsche, it is recommended to be done every 60k miles or 4 years.