997.1 C2S buying advice
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
997.1 C2S buying advice
Hello. still a very new member here. I've been shopping for a while now for either a '09+ Cayman S or a 997.1 C2S and would really appreciate some advice/opinions on one I may have found. (It will be my first Porsche -- with a budget of around $35k.)
The car I found is a 2005 C2S with 77k for around $35k (memory seats, HID lights, no nav, no chrono). I had a chance to drive it and check it out today and it's in very good shape. drives great, although granted I don't have much experience in this particular model/year. interior looks like a 20k car at most and aesthetically, everything is great looking. It's a 3 owner car that hasn't left the Southern California area. no modifications, with a clean Carfax. It was inspected at 72k (I saw the report) with no issues, no signs of IMS failure, and of course I would plan to get a PPI if I decided to move to that step.
So my main concerns are whether a C2S with this high mileage is a good move, given that it will be my daily (although I don't drive more than 8k a year) -- and whether it's a good price (it does seem to be cheaper than most of the other high mileage C2S's i've seen by a few grand). anything I should watch out for that the PPI won't cover?
thank you!
The car I found is a 2005 C2S with 77k for around $35k (memory seats, HID lights, no nav, no chrono). I had a chance to drive it and check it out today and it's in very good shape. drives great, although granted I don't have much experience in this particular model/year. interior looks like a 20k car at most and aesthetically, everything is great looking. It's a 3 owner car that hasn't left the Southern California area. no modifications, with a clean Carfax. It was inspected at 72k (I saw the report) with no issues, no signs of IMS failure, and of course I would plan to get a PPI if I decided to move to that step.
So my main concerns are whether a C2S with this high mileage is a good move, given that it will be my daily (although I don't drive more than 8k a year) -- and whether it's a good price (it does seem to be cheaper than most of the other high mileage C2S's i've seen by a few grand). anything I should watch out for that the PPI won't cover?
thank you!
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You will hear a lot of "don't buy an 05" due to IMS. Not sure what the build date is on it so it may be a later 05 which would be fine(I have an early 05 model BTW). Price may be a tick high with 77K on it but if it's otherwise cherry and the PPI looks good go for it. I have seen 07 non S for 38 with similar miles but if it checks all the right boxes for you in color and options and the PPI comes back clean I say go for it.
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
You will hear a lot of "don't buy an 05" due to IMS. Not sure what the build date is on it so it may be a later 05 which would be fine(I have an early 05 model BTW). Price may be a tick high with 77K on it but if it's otherwise cherry and the PPI looks good go for it. I have seen 07 non S for 38 with similar miles but if it checks all the right boxes for you in color and options and the PPI comes back clean I say go for it.
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
and yes, I should be able to get him down a bit on price, especially because it looks like It will need new tires soon.
#6
Build date is usually on a sticker on the end of the driver door below your line of sight. FYI: There is not great correlation between build date and IMSB style. Only dropping the transmission gives the definitive answer.
A proper PPI will take several hours and should include dropping the oil pan, leak-down test, and bore scoping. Your service provider will tell you these are unnecessary tests. That's true, but remember that they will not be paying to repair IMSB, cracked heads, or cylinder sleeves. These are legitimate potential failures that are rare but do occur and are crazy expensive to fix. $300 insurance seems cheap by comparison.
If your candidate car is claimed to be accident free make sure the PPI includes a paint thickness test to confirm this. DME testing is quick and easy to perform... but interpretation of the over rev data varies from place to place.
RMS and IMSB leaks usually manifest themselves the same way viewed from below. RMS is a fairly easy fix, IMSB maybe not.
Good luck.
A proper PPI will take several hours and should include dropping the oil pan, leak-down test, and bore scoping. Your service provider will tell you these are unnecessary tests. That's true, but remember that they will not be paying to repair IMSB, cracked heads, or cylinder sleeves. These are legitimate potential failures that are rare but do occur and are crazy expensive to fix. $300 insurance seems cheap by comparison.
If your candidate car is claimed to be accident free make sure the PPI includes a paint thickness test to confirm this. DME testing is quick and easy to perform... but interpretation of the over rev data varies from place to place.
RMS and IMSB leaks usually manifest themselves the same way viewed from below. RMS is a fairly easy fix, IMSB maybe not.
Good luck.
#7
just make sure you get it inspected NOW, things can change in a day, so yesterdays inspection doesnt mater. I would use the dealer, he can see if theres anything up on the porsche system
Trending Topics
#8
Make sure you budget in enough money for maintenance and upkeep, if you aren't going to do your own garage work. And that's not counting the rare failures like IMS Bearing type stuff. Given the car is over 10 years old, you won't be able to buy a Fidelity aftermarket warranty (if that was a consideration).
If you can stretch your budget to $39-40k, you might be able to find a deal on an '06 or even '07 S. At that point the IMSB failure rate goes to practically nil, from what I've seen on the forums.
If you can stretch your budget to $39-40k, you might be able to find a deal on an '06 or even '07 S. At that point the IMSB failure rate goes to practically nil, from what I've seen on the forums.
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Build date is usually on a sticker on the end of the driver door below your line of sight. FYI: There is not great correlation between build date and IMSB style. Only dropping the transmission gives the definitive answer.
A proper PPI will take several hours and should include dropping the oil pan, leak-down test, and bore scoping. Your service provider will tell you these are unnecessary tests. That's true, but remember that they will not be paying to repair IMSB, cracked heads, or cylinder sleeves. These are legitimate potential failures that are rare but do occur and are crazy expensive to fix. $300 insurance seems cheap by comparison.
If your candidate car is claimed to be accident free make sure the PPI includes a paint thickness test to confirm this. DME testing is quick and easy to perform... but interpretation of the over rev data varies from place to place.
RMS and IMSB leaks usually manifest themselves the same way viewed from below. RMS is a fairly easy fix, IMSB maybe not.
Good luck.
A proper PPI will take several hours and should include dropping the oil pan, leak-down test, and bore scoping. Your service provider will tell you these are unnecessary tests. That's true, but remember that they will not be paying to repair IMSB, cracked heads, or cylinder sleeves. These are legitimate potential failures that are rare but do occur and are crazy expensive to fix. $300 insurance seems cheap by comparison.
If your candidate car is claimed to be accident free make sure the PPI includes a paint thickness test to confirm this. DME testing is quick and easy to perform... but interpretation of the over rev data varies from place to place.
RMS and IMSB leaks usually manifest themselves the same way viewed from below. RMS is a fairly easy fix, IMSB maybe not.
Good luck.
Make sure you budget in enough money for maintenance and upkeep, if you aren't going to do your own garage work. And that's not counting the rare failures like IMS Bearing type stuff. Given the car is over 10 years old, you won't be able to buy a Fidelity aftermarket warranty (if that was a consideration).
If you can stretch your budget to $39-40k, you might be able to find a deal on an '06 or even '07 S. At that point the IMSB failure rate goes to practically nil, from what I've seen on the forums.
If you can stretch your budget to $39-40k, you might be able to find a deal on an '06 or even '07 S. At that point the IMSB failure rate goes to practically nil, from what I've seen on the forums.
If so, I'm really in no rush, there are a pretty good number of used 997.1's around the country, just a matter of finding the right one. again, much appreciated.
#11
...understand the fix if needed (and caught in time) is easier on the '05 -- but the problem is less prevalent on the newer (>'05) models -- just haven't been able to get a good idea of just how much difference there is.
If so, I'm really in no rush, there are a pretty good number of used 997.1's around the country, just a matter of finding the right one. again, much appreciated.
If so, I'm really in no rush, there are a pretty good number of used 997.1's around the country, just a matter of finding the right one. again, much appreciated.
If your 997 has a replacement engine ("AT" embedded in the engine number) then you likely to have the large IMSB.
#12
Take a look at this thread, one of MANY about the IMS Bearing. However, this pretty much sums it up. Jake Raby "Flat6 Innovations" is an engine and tuning god around these parts. Read what he says about failure rates of the IMSB for 2006+ 997's:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...upgrade-2.html
TL;DR -- failures of the 2006+ larger IMSB, in normal road use and if the oil is properly maintained, is basically non-existent.
If Jake Raby is confident about it, I would be too.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...upgrade-2.html
TL;DR -- failures of the 2006+ larger IMSB, in normal road use and if the oil is properly maintained, is basically non-existent.
If Jake Raby is confident about it, I would be too.
is the jump from '05 to '06 that big of a difference for IMS risk? I've poked around a lot and understand the fix if needed (and caught in time) is easier on the '05 -- but the problem is less prevalent on the newer (>'05) models -- just haven't been able to get a good idea of just how much difference there is.
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
IMSB retrofit may or may not apply to MY05. PPI will not answer this question. The difference in IMSB retrofit cost is huge between a "small bearing" and "large bearing" 997.
If your 997 has a replacement engine ("AT" embedded in the engine number) then you likely to have the large IMSB.
If your 997 has a replacement engine ("AT" embedded in the engine number) then you likely to have the large IMSB.
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Take a look at this thread, one of MANY about the IMS Bearing. However, this pretty much sums it up. Jake Raby "Flat6 Innovations" is an engine and tuning god around these parts. Read what he says about failure rates of the IMSB for 2006+ 997's:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...upgrade-2.html
TL;DR -- failures of the 2006+ larger IMSB, in normal road use and if the oil is properly maintained, is basically non-existent.
If Jake Raby is confident about it, I would be too.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...upgrade-2.html
TL;DR -- failures of the 2006+ larger IMSB, in normal road use and if the oil is properly maintained, is basically non-existent.
If Jake Raby is confident about it, I would be too.
#15
Make sure you budget in enough money for maintenance and upkeep, if you aren't going to do your own garage work. And that's not counting the rare failures like IMS Bearing type stuff. Given the car is over 10 years old, you won't be able to buy a Fidelity aftermarket warranty (if that was a consideration).
If you can stretch your budget to $39-40k, you might be able to find a deal on an '06 or even '07 S. At that point the IMSB failure rate goes to practically nil, from what I've seen on the forums.
If you can stretch your budget to $39-40k, you might be able to find a deal on an '06 or even '07 S. At that point the IMSB failure rate goes to practically nil, from what I've seen on the forums.
I was able to get a Fidelity Platinum Warranty for the car for similar out of pocket to what the IMSB retrofit would've cost. My logic was the warranty will protect against not only IMS, but many other issues that could surface over my ownership of the car, and also would be a nice selling point should I want to part ways with the car down the road.