Radar detector?
 

I've always had a V1 in my car but recently noticed the 12v port on the passenger footwell stays on.

Two questions

Is there a way to have this port turn off when the ignition is off ?

Is there a easy way to wire in a V1 or Passport Max? In my previous car you could buy a wire that hijacked power from the self dimming mirror.

It's constant because it's primary function was for the battery maintainer.
You could modify it to be switched via an hidden switch (that's what I did) or tied to the ignition switch but then you better remember to flip the switch when you plus in your batter tender.

mine is hardwired to self dimming mirror or light - not sure

I used the DIY instructions from the post above and had no problems wiring it in to the mirror. I also modified my V1 mount as I did not want to use the suction cup or sun visor clip.

I used some small bolts and combined the sun visor clip on to the top of main V1 mount. The part that normally would clip to the top of the visor now tucks in between the windshield frame and the head liner.

http://www.wesdgreen.com/v1-1.JPG

http://www.wesdgreen.com/radar4.JPG

http://www.wesdgreen.com/v1-2.JPG

WestCan- GREAT idea!! I have windshield tint and I currently use the suction cups but over time they WILL pull the tint off if I don't find another way. I also can't use the clip because as you know, the curvy part that you cut off will stick itself into the headliner.

Please show us more detail as to what you did. Just cut the clip? Is that tape at the tip? I'd love to see more!

Dude, more data... I need to do this. Those darn suction cups suck.... er um blow..... um yea, like a fan, the suck and blow.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

How do you turn off the 12 volt plug in the pass footwell so it only works while the car is on?

A fusebox tie-in method
 

Here's a solution that worked well for me and doesn't require splicing into any existing wires. It only takes 15 minutes or so once you have the fusebox tap you need.

First remove the fusebox lid, then remove the screws you'll see at the outer edges of the fusebox holding the carpeting panel in place. With those removed, you can remove the carpeting panel to allow access behind the fuse box to run the wire that I'll describe later. These are the only screws that you'll need to unscrew anywhere during installation and the only panel that needs to be opened.

Run the hard-wired radar detector wire from where it plugs into the detector along the seam in roof lining where it meets the windshield (photo 1). There is a deep channel there. I held the wire from popping back out with a couple of small chunks of rubber foam pushed into the roof lining seam after the wire was in place, but I'm not sure it was necessary. They wire and the pieces can be easily pulled back out if needed in the future.

The run the wire along the channel between the front pillar trim and the glass on front side of the front pillar where you can't see it. Tuck the wire tightly against the pillar along the dash (photo 2, the only place you do see it) then downward under the rubber door seal until you could get the wire into the area behind the fuse box. While you can see the wire in photo 2, it is pretty much unnoticeable and I preferred doing that way as opposed to taking off the pillar trim which looks too risky and difficult.

There is a body-paint-colored nut on a screw that mounts to the body to the left bottom of the fuse box that makes a great grounding point. Simply loosen the nut, attach the detector wire to the screw, then tighten the nut to hold it in place.

Take the positive wire and fish it from the back through the hole in the fuse box next to the fuse puller (visible in photo 3). I actually did this by pushing another wire through from the front, taping it to the detector positive wire, then pulling them both back through. This is like using a fish tape if you know what that is.

Use the crimp connector to connect the detector's positive wire to the fusebox plug I bought at AutoZone. While the one I used (Add-A-Fuse, photo 4) supports being plugged into an occupied fuse position (then piggybacking that fuse into the second slot on the connector), I just plugged it into an unused position that switches with the ignition and only added the one fuse needed for the detector. I think the Add-A-Fuse came with a fuse, but if not, you'll need to buy one (or use one of the spares from the fusebox if you'd rather).

After testing that you have correctly supplied switched power, all you have to do is wind up any extra power cord and store it in the space next to the fusebox where it won't rattle around and put the fusebox carpet panel back in place. I've done this to more than one car for myself and a friend... its simple, reliable, and requires no splicing. It is also very easily removed when I sell the car.

Hi,

Where is the hidden switch located?

So mine came with the car from the previous owner so I've taken anything apart
to see the details. I didn't event know it was with the car until it went off!

The two sensors are mounted in the front and the switch is in the foot well.
When it goes off, just flip the switch to deactivate.
These things are illegal up here so it's nice that it's hidden.
When fellow Pcar owners who have notice them ask what they are, I just say it's an aftermarket "park assist". ;)

These are the best solution for my V1
http://www.bumperplugs.com/index.php...&path=2_26_157

I have this install for my 9500ix and it works great.. Was easy to move from my 997S to my turbo when I bought it.

I have this to. Had it done for me while I was having something else done at a high end custom shop that does a lot of stuff for athletes etc. Except where the phone wire drops to the V1, it is completely tucked under the trim and not visible.

Ah, it was a non-standard switch. I had mistaken that it was a factory installed hidden switch which I've never heard of. Thanks much anyways. The previous owner seems to have done a really neat job. :thumbup: