PCM 10a fuse blown immediately
#16
Rennlist Member
I agree... It might be cheaper to fix then to replace. Check the phone book for any tv-radio-electronic repair stores in your area. Some of those little Ma-pop stores are cheap but do great work. The dealer will want to replace for a new unit for big $$$$
#17
Drifting
With the unit out, see if you can just apply 12vDC to the power and ground point on the PCM, with a new fuse. If that blows the fuse, it clearly a PCM problem.. and an electronics shop may be able to work on it to find an obvious fault.. so I'd ask them to spend 2 hrs on it tracking down the signals from the most likely failure sources, power supply, pre-amp, internal debris, and see what they find. You may end up spending $200 and not finding a solution .. so its a betting game at this stage. Thats why dealers/company will just replace the unit - at their cost - as over all cars over time, its cheaper to do that than diagnose the problem and fix the individual unit.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
With the unit out, see if you can just apply 12vDC to the power and ground point on the PCM, with a new fuse. If that blows the fuse, it clearly a PCM problem.. and an electronics shop may be able to work on it to find an obvious fault.. so I'd ask them to spend 2 hrs on it tracking down the signals from the most likely failure sources, power supply, pre-amp, internal debris, and see what they find. You may end up spending $200 and not finding a solution .. so its a betting game at this stage. Thats why dealers/company will just replace the unit - at their cost - as over all cars over time, its cheaper to do that than diagnose the problem and fix the individual unit.
#19
Send it to Becker to have them diagnose and repair. Web site posed below.
http://www.beckerautosound.com/Porsc...he%20Menu.html
http://www.beckerautosound.com/Porsc...he%20Menu.html
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Send it to Becker to have them diagnose and repair. Web site posed below.
http://www.beckerautosound.com/Porsc...he%20Menu.html
http://www.beckerautosound.com/Porsc...he%20Menu.html
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
UPDATE
Becker put a new fuse in and says the PCM is working fine for them. That means that something else is causing the PCM fuse to blow. Could the amp do this if there was a problem with it? Any other thoughts/ideas? I
If it turns out to be the amp, what are my options for replacing only the amp (non-bose system)?
Becker put a new fuse in and says the PCM is working fine for them. That means that something else is causing the PCM fuse to blow. Could the amp do this if there was a problem with it? Any other thoughts/ideas? I
If it turns out to be the amp, what are my options for replacing only the amp (non-bose system)?
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
If you need an amp, you can try these guys.
http://www.fastoem.com/categories/Porsche/Amplifiers/
have you checked for shorted speakers?
http://www.fastoem.com/categories/Porsche/Amplifiers/
have you checked for shorted speakers?
#24
Drifting
The fuse is the symptom that there is a short somewhere (or unusually low resistance where there should not be).
It is possible that a short in the speaker manifests itself as just a load transfer to the pre-amp inputs (ie the audio out channels from the PCM, which could then cause the PCM fuse to blow). I'm not sure of the wiring and design.. if the audio from PCM to power amp is a digital signal then I would not think the power amp or speakers could be a problem typically.
I'd get a box of fuses and start by unplugging all the speakers and amp and PCM from each other an then start plugging in one thing at a time into the PCM first, and then start plugging in the speakers into the amp, and see when the fuse blows. That last thing plugged in, in conjunction with the thing you plugged it into, is likely the cuplrit. (ie if its plugging the left front speaker in that blows things, it could be the left front speaker, its wiring, or the left front circuit in the amp)
It is possible that a short in the speaker manifests itself as just a load transfer to the pre-amp inputs (ie the audio out channels from the PCM, which could then cause the PCM fuse to blow). I'm not sure of the wiring and design.. if the audio from PCM to power amp is a digital signal then I would not think the power amp or speakers could be a problem typically.
I'd get a box of fuses and start by unplugging all the speakers and amp and PCM from each other an then start plugging in one thing at a time into the PCM first, and then start plugging in the speakers into the amp, and see when the fuse blows. That last thing plugged in, in conjunction with the thing you plugged it into, is likely the cuplrit. (ie if its plugging the left front speaker in that blows things, it could be the left front speaker, its wiring, or the left front circuit in the amp)
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
The fuse is the symptom that there is a short somewhere (or unusually low resistance where there should not be).
It is possible that a short in the speaker manifests itself as just a load transfer to the pre-amp inputs (ie the audio out channels from the PCM, which could then cause the PCM fuse to blow). I'm not sure of the wiring and design.. if the audio from PCM to power amp is a digital signal then I would not think the power amp or speakers could be a problem typically.
I'd get a box of fuses and start by unplugging all the speakers and amp and PCM from each other an then start plugging in one thing at a time into the PCM first, and then start plugging in the speakers into the amp, and see when the fuse blows. That last thing plugged in, in conjunction with the thing you plugged it into, is likely the cuplrit. (ie if its plugging the left front speaker in that blows things, it could be the left front speaker, its wiring, or the left front circuit in the amp)
It is possible that a short in the speaker manifests itself as just a load transfer to the pre-amp inputs (ie the audio out channels from the PCM, which could then cause the PCM fuse to blow). I'm not sure of the wiring and design.. if the audio from PCM to power amp is a digital signal then I would not think the power amp or speakers could be a problem typically.
I'd get a box of fuses and start by unplugging all the speakers and amp and PCM from each other an then start plugging in one thing at a time into the PCM first, and then start plugging in the speakers into the amp, and see when the fuse blows. That last thing plugged in, in conjunction with the thing you plugged it into, is likely the cuplrit. (ie if its plugging the left front speaker in that blows things, it could be the left front speaker, its wiring, or the left front circuit in the amp)
UPDATE: Got radio back. Bought handful of 10a fuses. Started plugging things in. Each of the three multi-wire connectors would go in without problem on their own. And the power cable gave it power without a problem (of course I didn't have speakers). But when I plugged in the bottom one and the middle one (don't know what they go to). The fuse blew. Also heard slight crackle/pop from left front speaker. When I tried to duplicate, I no longer got fuse to blow and I no longer have power. I think I did a bad thing. Time to take it to someone who knows what he's doing.
Last edited by iammulva; 12-20-2013 at 05:27 PM.
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
RADIO IS FINALLY FIXED!
I had become accustomed to not having a working radio. That, in conjunction with limited time and nearly non-existent expertise, created a long delay in me being able to get the right person to look at my radio issue. Turns out that someone (I think the guys who repainted my car) trapped a speaker wire with a panel screw when they put the driver's door panel back on.
Assuming that I wouldn't be able to troubleshoot the problem, I never bothered pulling the door panels. I'm fine with having paid someone to fix this problem, but hope that this might be an informative data point for someone else.
Side note: the guy I took it to has pretty terrible reviews online. He was recommended by a mechanic whose judgment I trust enough (obviously). The repair guy was pretty rough around the edges but definitely knew what he was doing with the radio (not just door panel and speaker wiring).
<-- me again
Thanks to those who provided feedback on this problem.
I had become accustomed to not having a working radio. That, in conjunction with limited time and nearly non-existent expertise, created a long delay in me being able to get the right person to look at my radio issue. Turns out that someone (I think the guys who repainted my car) trapped a speaker wire with a panel screw when they put the driver's door panel back on.
Assuming that I wouldn't be able to troubleshoot the problem, I never bothered pulling the door panels. I'm fine with having paid someone to fix this problem, but hope that this might be an informative data point for someone else.
Side note: the guy I took it to has pretty terrible reviews online. He was recommended by a mechanic whose judgment I trust enough (obviously). The repair guy was pretty rough around the edges but definitely knew what he was doing with the radio (not just door panel and speaker wiring).
<-- me again
Thanks to those who provided feedback on this problem.
#27
Rennlist Member
Great to hear you got the radio sorted out. I'm in the middle of replacing the unit in my car. Blue tooth works intermittently, phone book is weak and the radio portion is poor at best. Since I do drive mine on the street it would be nice to have a little better system. No amp or speakers just a new head unit. The factory unit will go on the shelf with the other parts.
#28
Drifting
So one of the speakers was shorted out and when plugged in, it blows the fuse (as it should). If you had a wiring diagram and knew where the wires from that connector went you would have been able to track it down in all likelihood. Good to know that step 1 may be - test for shorts on the wires to the speakers.
#29
Instructor
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ridgefield, CT
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Make sure you rule out all of the things that are controlled by that particular fuse. It is not always logical what is controlled. My fuse 10b kept blowing and my external cooling fans were on all the time. Turns out that fuse controlled external cooling fans (radiator fans)sport chrono, vent. seats, and a couple other things unrelated controls. Turns out it was a pinched ventilated seat wire. Good luck.