Moved car with airbox off and now it throws a code and runs rough
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Moved car with airbox off and now it throws a code and runs rough
I was getting ready to replace my coolant reservoir and had taken the air box off to get a better view of the reservoir. The car was outside the garage. I realized if things went wrong and the car had to sit, I'd rather it be in the garage. I hopped in the car and pulled it forward 10 feet without remembering to put the air box back on. So we're talking about 30 seconds total to start and move the car. Well, I got 'check engine' light when I pulled in. I figured it would clear itself when I put the air box back on after fixing the car.
So, reservoir is back in. Took the car for a 10 minute spin and the check engine light is still on. It idles rough and while accelerating, the car kinda lurches as it accelerates. The exhaust smells of fuel.
Another possible cause for some of the problems is that getting the reservoir in and out is really tight. Maybe I knocked a hose loose. I've checked everything and can't find any loose hoses.
I took it up to autozone and read the codes out. I'm currently getting:
P300, P301, P302, P303, P304, P305. Those I think are all cylinder misfires from the various cylinders. I also got P1090 and P1175.
Anyone have ideas of what it might be? I replaced coils and plugs about 2000 miles ago. She was running just fine before I moved the car with the air intake off.
So, reservoir is back in. Took the car for a 10 minute spin and the check engine light is still on. It idles rough and while accelerating, the car kinda lurches as it accelerates. The exhaust smells of fuel.
Another possible cause for some of the problems is that getting the reservoir in and out is really tight. Maybe I knocked a hose loose. I've checked everything and can't find any loose hoses.
I took it up to autozone and read the codes out. I'm currently getting:
P300, P301, P302, P303, P304, P305. Those I think are all cylinder misfires from the various cylinders. I also got P1090 and P1175.
Anyone have ideas of what it might be? I replaced coils and plugs about 2000 miles ago. She was running just fine before I moved the car with the air intake off.
#3
Race Director
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input. Will running the car with the MAF disconnected hurt the MAF? The entire air box was off the car...so the MAF was not connected at that point. After I started to get the rough idle, I read some threads that suggested that MAF could get dirty and cause the rough idle. I then removed it and cleaned it with MAF cleaner hoping that maybe it got some dirt lodged in there after removing the air box and turning it all ways while setting it down.
It is connected to the harness. I've checked that connection a number of times now and it's certainly on there till it clicks. Not sure how I would have damaged it. Just disconnected it like I normally do and sat the whole air intake assembly on top of a box.
--Von
It is connected to the harness. I've checked that connection a number of times now and it's certainly on there till it clicks. Not sure how I would have damaged it. Just disconnected it like I normally do and sat the whole air intake assembly on top of a box.
--Von
Last edited by Rotmilky; 07-11-2013 at 11:42 PM.
#5
if you use durametric or go to a dealer you can find out when those errors happened and understnad if they were the result of not having the airbox in place(probably) or something else.
or you can clear the codes and see if they happen again.
or you can clear the codes and see if they happen again.
#6
I think you have determined what caused the problem - you ran the engine without the MAF sensor connected. I suspect that the ECU went into "limp" mode until it is reset.
You can try disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting it to reset the ECU or as others have suggested take it to someone that do a reset (i.e. Dealer).
Good luck!
You can try disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting it to reset the ECU or as others have suggested take it to someone that do a reset (i.e. Dealer).
Good luck!
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, the car is fixed and the lesson on this is that I need to get a durametric in before I need it on short notice. I always thought I'd get one 'when I needed it'. The problem is that any time the car breaks, it's suddenly a crisis and you need the durametic NOW.
The second lesson is to clear all the codes first and then check to see what code the car keeps throwing. All those misfires on cylinders 1-6 were caused by the MAF disconnect. So, they made me think it was a vacuum leak. Once those were cleared, one code kept coming up that help trace the problem.
Turns out the coil on cylinder one had jiggled loose. I took the car to an independent shop in Santa Fe (thanks Cutting Edge!) . They cleared the codes and then found cylinder 1 kept popping a code. They poked around and noticed the coil on 1 was not connected well. They reconnected it and she purred like a kitten.
Not sure why the coil disconnected. I did drop the coolant level sensor into the shroud covering the coils and had to poke around in there to get it out. Must have knocked something loose while I did it. <Shrug>
Thanks for all the help guys.
The second lesson is to clear all the codes first and then check to see what code the car keeps throwing. All those misfires on cylinders 1-6 were caused by the MAF disconnect. So, they made me think it was a vacuum leak. Once those were cleared, one code kept coming up that help trace the problem.
Turns out the coil on cylinder one had jiggled loose. I took the car to an independent shop in Santa Fe (thanks Cutting Edge!) . They cleared the codes and then found cylinder 1 kept popping a code. They poked around and noticed the coil on 1 was not connected well. They reconnected it and she purred like a kitten.
Not sure why the coil disconnected. I did drop the coolant level sensor into the shroud covering the coils and had to poke around in there to get it out. Must have knocked something loose while I did it. <Shrug>
Thanks for all the help guys.
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#8
Advanced
Great write up on the replacement of your coolant reservoir and how you managed your troubles after. I'm sure if I did it I would definitely screw it up, but then that's half the fun and challenge of working on your own car.