alexb76

I got an RMS leak which most likely will be covered under CPO... question is, shall I also do clutch while doing this?

I got 25K miles on the car, have tracked the car 3-4 times year, and while clutch is just fine, it's definitely not brand new.

So, shall I just do the clutch and be done with it? I drive 10K/year or so, so if I did the clutch, don't have to do it for another 4-5yrs (if I kept the car that long). What about flywheel? Is that something to do typically?

One main reason I need to know this beforehand, is that I wanna buy the parts cheaper from Suncoast or Sunset, and not leave it to stealership.

CarGuy21

If it were my car, I would replace the clutch. In fact I'd upgrade it. I'd also put in a light weight flywheel but you may not want to go to that expense. Some will say that the original flywheel should be resurfaced but if it's in good condition i.e. no burn marks and no significant scoring, it doesn't need resurfacing of replacement.

There are some on here who have tracked their cars on the original clutch and gotten 80 to 100K miles out of them so YMMV.

Good luck!!

0356kid

I recently had a leak also on my 08C2S with about 30,000 miles on it. Covered under the CPO. Dealer said clutch looked great but to replace the throw-out bearing which I had them do.

Luxter

Hi Alex,

I think you just answered your own question

If you plan to keep this car, R&R everything you can get your hands on.
If not, plan B is more appropriate.

Flywheel can be machined, the results however are not going to be satisfactory since it is a dual mass flywheel. Vibrations will ruin the effort. A new flywheel is $$$. Some TLC with emery cloth will likely be enough to prepare its surface for a new clutch disc.

Bruce In Philly

I got 197K miles out of my original clutch on my 2000 Boxster S and then the engine blew.... no idea how many more miles I would have gotten on it. I also had many track days on it. It is not the track or driving aggressivly, it is all in the rev matching.

I would not waste money like that.

Do you rev match when you down shift or do you let the clutch out lightly to spin up the engine? If you let your clutch out lightly, then you are heading to an early failure. If you rev match as I did and do.... your clutch may outlast you.

It is all in your skill.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

malexgcab

Bruce,

When you say "spin up the engine" ...

Are you referring to pressing the gas pedal more and letting go of the clutch lightly? As in letting clutch slip, so to speak?

7500rpm

The idea is to bring the engine speed up with your throttle, not clutch. You want to minimize clutch slip, which causes clutch wear. Honestly, it isn't easy to do in your daily drive. In the track, we heel and toe (during down shifts) to achieve this.

Alexb76, clutch life depends on driver habit, driving style and traffic type (city, highway, race track?). I did replace my clutch at your mileage when I did the LWFW mod. My car had a heavy traffic life in it first 20k miles and had seen about 15 track days by then. 'Whilst in there' I replaced the friction disc, pressure plate, sliding bearing, guide sleeve, clutch slave cylinder, IMS/RMS seals and AOS! My friction disc still had plenty of life, maybe more than half. The fingers on the PP were fine and so was the friction surface. The was no noticeable wear on the bearing and guide sleeve. I was able to shift my flywheel by 1cm and i read somewhere any movement over 1cm means flywheel should be replaced, please research this. However, my clutch lever had premature wear. Based on my experience, I recommend that you order the cheap lever and its pivot pin and leave everything else alone. If using an indie, make sure he has the special grease that Porsche calls for. This is a very expensive very hi-temp, extreme pressure, long life grease. I had real difficulties sourcing it. Anyway, check your clutch when it's out and decide. Good luck!

alexb76

Thanks for all the feedback.

I do rev-match, specially on track and while driving hard... clutch doesn't slip at all, but I can tell that it did grab better 3yrs ago than it does now.

So, I am sure the clutch is fine, and will be fine for some time, question is, while the car is being done at dealer is the shared labour cost worth doing a clutch or not? I think a clutch job is $2-3K, while if it's done part of this repair it might just be $500.

My problem is that the cost of those things at my stealership is almost double of what I can get em for from Sunset/suncoast... hence, might have to pull the trigger before things are inspected.

LexVan

Is your stealership going to allow you to supply your own parts? I doubt it. Check and make sure.

Vancouver-BC

Alex,

I had the RMS replaced on my 2007 997 C2 a couple of weeks ago at MCL. While they were in there, they also ended replacing the flywheel and clutch. In the end I covered only parts, but I agree the mark-up is pretty steep compared to south of the border. It was a good investment, as I can notice a significant difference in pedal effort and clutch engagement.

alexb76

Hey man, thanks.

What was your milage? What was the cost of parts? Suncoast is $761 for clutch kit.

alexb76

I think so, specially if it's Porsche brand.

Bruce In Philly

I heel toe all the time (actually roll my foot over). To do this, I installed the Rennline gas pedal. I find the 997.2 gas pedal a bit too far over and down for HTing under normal, around town braking pressures. This pedal makes HTing a very simple and natural maneuver. Check out my thread on this pedal here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...gas-pedal.html

Doing extra work "while they are in there" is a very personal choice. My thinking has always been to leave it alone until it breaks (or makes noise). Just me. I don't always do this for example, when replacing a wheel bearing, I also do the other side. Control arm? same thing, do the other side too. But many don't even recommend this.

Your call.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Macster

The tech ought to be able to advise you regarding the clutch. I let the one who did the RMS on my 02 Boxster (at around 25K miles) advise me and he said the clutch looked fine. I did ask if he would add a dab of heavy grease at any lube points in the clutch which he said he'd do.

That clutch now has almost 268K miles on it. And you want to replace your's at 25K miles?

Geesh.

Vancouver-BC

Are you sitting down. Standard dual-mass flywheel, 1350, clutch set 960, and release bearing, 220. The car had 25K Km on it and I've had it for 2 years. One thing I noticed when I purchased it, was the clutch seemed relatively heavy, but I had no decent point of reference for gauging if it was extreme or not. Given the feel of the new clutch, the old clutch was extremely stiff. Long story short, they got in there and realized the flywheel was pretty much toast and the clutch was severely worn out, so everything was replaced. I have an EasyCare TotalCare warranty so with the RMS replacement, most of the labour was covered.