stronbl

I'll echo the others comments as well ... nice job, great write up. Good to see you got the 4 jack points going now too!

USMC_DS1

Thanks all for the positive feedback and contributing comments. Just a thought... I have plenty of gear oil - enough for 5 more changes so it's likely more than I will go through in the near future. I believe the local p-dealer gave me a decent deal on it. I'd like to keep enough for 2 more changes but that leaves 10 liters for anyone looking to knock out this project. I can part out half of my container or 10 liters @ $30/liter. Not sure if that price is better than what you can get locally but it's there if anyone wants it. I'd prefer a local p/u but will ship at the buyer's expense. Just PM me if you want part or all of the 10 liters.

dbv1

PM sent.

Doug_B_928

Boy am I glad you bought a 997.1 . Looking forward to your brake and clutch bleed write-ups.

911's

Nice work and cool write-up, wishing i had a manual gearbox but Tiptronic is mine and i have all the necessary spacial tools ready to do the job. As an added assistance and to be on the safe side I've Been searching for a write-up on the 997.1 tiptronic in all related Porsche forums around but can't seem to find any.

Has anyone done a 997.1 Tiptronic write-up and wouldn't mind sharing

USMC_DS1

Doug, I actually used the DIY's/postings by Edgy and Tito as a reference for the brake and clutch bleed. So if I post another DIY on this topic it would most likely be on the installation of the Stainless Steel braided brake lines and how to use the Motive Powerbleeder plus MityVac in conjunction to ensure a thorough bleed.

Try AllDATAdiy as a resource. It had instructions for the MT so I suspect it may have it for the tip as well. And post a DIY with pics and your personal insights when you get to the project. It would be great to see a few write-ups on the 997.1 Tip. BTW, I've done numerous AT flushes on our trucks/SUV's. The procedure is very similar.

Doug_B_928

[Doug, I actually used the DIY's/postings by Edgy and Tito as a reference for the brake and clutch bleed. So if I post another DIY on this topic it would most likely be on the installation of the Stainless Steel braided brake lines and how to use the Motive Powerbleeder plus MityVac in conjunction to ensure a thorough bleed.]

Had a look and while the posts are great, it would be so much more helpful to have a newbie rated procedural with pics. It would also be helpful to include the durametric part that you mention for the ABS. If you're so inclined (and took pics), this would be very helpful and something we could use every two years.
P.S., I'm going to be doing a prophylactic coolant and WP soon and plan to do a complete newbie step-by-step.

Luxter

Here is my setup for bleeding brakes and more importantly clutch. All parts come from Home Depot and Princess Auto (CAN only).



The above assembly is connected to air compressor.
I also included a pressure regulator to prevent over pressurizing brake fluid reservoir. 1 Bar (15 PSI) is perfectly adequate to get job done.
More details here:




The hardest part was to fit a spare reservoir cap with quick coupler.
All internals were removed, a hole was drilled and the coupler was fitted with some epoxy on both sides.
The original rubber gasket was re-fitted with some contact cement to de-gutted inside of the cap:



Any Q's? Shoot me a note.
Cheers,
=L=

Luxter

Hi Doug,
Make sure that you have Airvac and a decent compressor with larger air tank to get this job done properly. You can actually cause more damage with air pockets in the system than any good with new pump and fresh coolant.
P coolant or VW G-12 (pink) is a must (Pentosin Pentofrost SF). Both are perfectly miscible:
http://www.pentosin.net/f_antifreeze.asp
Also, decent coolant additive makes sense to reduce surface tension and help transfer heat. Motul or Redline come to my mind.
Check your serpentine belt as well once there.
There was a post by Ahsai (IIRC) on how to evacuate most of old coolant from the system (w/o disconnecting rad hoses) using pressurized air posted on 996 forum.
Cheers,
=L=

ECS Tuning

Awesome job on the DIY as always. Thank you for sharing

Doug_B_928

Luxtor, cool setup for the brake bleed! I have a motive bleeder I'm planning to use. With your system, how do you add more fluid?

For the coolant job, I have the UV airlift 550000 with a 20 gallon compressor. Is that big enough?

Luxter

I depressurize reservoir, remove the cap and add more brake fluid. Note, there is an isolation valve on assembly. I typically drain no more than about 125 mL at a time from a single caliper (or clutch) to avoid running reservoir empty. I typically use 1 L of brake fluid for complete brake flush, which is about 0.250 L per corner.

20 Gal should be enough. If not, shut air valve off and build air pressure back to >90 PSI or your compressor MAWP and repeat until you get solid 25 inch Hg vacuum. Well into green zone on the gauge. Don't hesitate to repeat the process if necessary. Well worth the effort.
Check if the system holds vacuum for a minute or two as well.
If your system does not hold vacuum then you have a leak in it. Get it fixed before refilling it with fresh coolant.

One more note: To remove coolant pump you will have to remove rear engine carrier and support the engine + transmission assembly. It can be a challenge if you don't have the right tools, jacks, etc. Plan your work accordingly.

Cheers,
=L=

yvesvidal

How about this oil? It seems to me it would be suitable for a manual gear box on a 997.1:

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...netransmission

Anybody has used that oil with success?

Yves

dbv1

I put up my car on stands today (using Edgy's guide). Once the car was on the stands (which is the hardest part of this), it was obvious that the pad of my garage is not level (maybe 5% tilt, eyeballing it). The fill hole ended up pointing to the lowest part of the garage so I was sure I would not put in enough oil once I filled up so I'm postponing this until I hear your opinions.

How do you guys make sure the car is level? Try to find a more level part of the garage? I'm hesitant to put in less (or more) oil than is needed.

On a side note, having the car on 4 stands and being under it made me paranoid. I was wondering how good those $20 stands are all along. Ended up putting extra stands on the back as backup.

JustinCase

USMC: Considering your high level of detail and good, pertinent photos, I would be willing to bet your careful documentation costs you a significant amount of your reported project time. Great job -- I look forward to your next DIY.