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is this based on opinion or experience? Because i have 10 years experience working on these cars day in and day out and dont hesitate to power wash any part of the engine bay.
Mark
It's my opinion, of course, but based on years of experience with lots of different vehicles.
Keep in mind that not all power washers are the same. The electric dealie that someone buys at Sam's Club probably wouldn't cause a problem. My Honda-powered pressure washer puts out well over 3,000psi, and with the right nozzle, I could do some serious damage to a car, including blowing a hole through a hose or the air box.
People with a lot of experience not only using pressure washers (real ones) AND with detailing cars probably don't need advice on what to do and what not to do. But, the person who asks the question probably needs to be warned that a real power washer can screw things up under the hood of a car.
Clean my engines 1-2 / year with the low-pressure pre-soak at my favourite wand-wash. Just open the hood, give a couple light sprays back-n-forth, and close the hood (or deck lid, if it's that sort of car). If it's lucky, I'll give it a quick (1 second) rinse with the low-pressure spot-free-rinse.
This isn't rocket science. If you want it nice and shiny and detailed, you can be **** about micro fiber clothes and special cleaners....but if it's just a little bit of dust...just rinse it off...
You should never use a pressure washer or a steam cleaner. The molecules in steam are moving so fast because water in the steam state of matter is actually a gas, and they can and will penetrate the "waterproof" electrical connector seals. Once inside as that steam cools down and condenses back to water, you now have water inside the electrical connector and it can't get back out past the waterproof connector seal. You may not have an immediate issue but as that water stays inside those connectors over time, it will corrode them and you'll then start having issues. You won't understand why because they will come about all of the sudden and for what seems like no apparent causation, and you'll forget that months ago you steam cleaned the motor to make it look really pretty.
Pressure washers aren't as bad, but should still not be used as the force of the water under pressure also has the molecules moving very fast and to some degree can create the same issue.
As other have said, cover the intake, cover the alternator and use an aluminum-safe cleaner like P21S total engine wash or a citrus based cleaner - use it sparingly, do more hand wiping than saturating, and rinse gently only with hose pressure.
I think they advice to spray this on a cold engine. At least that's what I've always done. Then crank it and at least drive it around the block to dry things up right after the rinse.
I rarely wash mine but when I do I spray it with Simple Green, let it soak about 10 min then rinse off on low pressure. Avoid any electrical connections.
Works great, inexpensive.
I just cleaned my Cayman S engine to beautiful near show room condition very easily without all the issues everyone is bringing up.
Park car preferably over a ground drain. Cool engine. Fill 5 gallon Home Depot, Lowe’s or Auto Zone bucket with hottest water you have.
Remove engine cover carpet with orange body tool from Auto Zone - place at end of trunk - remove 5 bolt engine cover - place on top of carpet cover.
Spray foaming Tuff Stuff from Auto Zone upholstery cleaner on 1/3 of left or right engine. Spray thick foaming all over section and down deep into engine - all parts. Let foam up for 30-40 seconds.
Use a tall plastic tumbler glass or half liter water bottle and fill full of hot water from bucket dunking inside bucket - then slowly pour all over foaming cleanser without splashing. Use a lot of water as needed to remove foam.
Spray another foam 1/3rd of engine - let set for 30-40 seconds - fill bottle or tumbler again - slowly pour and rinse off foam. Spray last 1/3rd of engine with foam spray and repeat rinsing. Examine engine.
If you see grease build up - use a wheel nylon cleaning brush also get from Auto Zone. Repeat foaming 1/3rd of engine and while foaming use brush to clean remaining grease buildup. It will come right off with the brush. Rinse again.
Go to second 1/3rd and repeat - looking for hard to reach spots of grease build up and lightly scrub. Use smaller worn toothbrush for smaller areas. Rinse carefully again. Repeat until engine is sparkling clean.
If you see puddles of water in low spots on engine - use paper towels to absorb excess water. Don’t worry / you won’t ruin anything. Don’t be Chinsey on the spray - blast the engine several times in 1/3rds if you need to get it sparkling clean.
Once finished - use terry cloth or shop rags to dry as much as you can reach and get those small corner areas wiped clean. You’ll have a gorgeous engine and no splattering or threat to electronics.
Replace engine cover / replace carpet easily by centering carpet over engine and slightly bending up in the middle of the carpet - pushing to far side of car away from you and inserting black tabs into slots (facing to rear of car) and use a orange plastic body knife tool from Auto Zone to manipulate carpet woth prying tool into perfect fit. It’s easy. And you’re DONE!!! (No I don’t work for Auto Zone.)
I researched this for a little bit and if you really want state of the art cleaning Cryo is the best way to go. Otherwise, I'd follow Pete's tips and (and did) bought some P21S and use some faux wheel woolies to probe around underneath. You definitely want to cover your eyes with good googles during this and maybe your full face (like a dentist) if you're sloppy.
I researched this for a little bit and if you really want state of the art cleaning Cryo is the best way to go. Otherwise, I'd follow Pete's tips and (and did) bought some P21S and use some faux wheel woolies to probe around underneath. You definitely want to cover your eyes with good googles during this and maybe your full face (like a dentist) if you're sloppy.
The Cryo Clean technology is definitely the winning process for sparkling clean show room engine and road worn under carriage - but also expensive and in limited supply. The joy of doing your own work and admiring ened results for me is a satisfying experience and time well worth it. My engine cleaning with spray on Tuff Stuff, a hot bucket of water and a nylon wheel brush with rags and paper towels took a most satisfying hour and no one to take the credit.
Next up - painting the engine to match all the mods and clear poly carbonate enegine cover to show off the details!
Regarding engine de-greaser... Really? My engine does not have grease on it... it has dirt... tons of dirt.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Getting “The dirt” off is the easy part woth Tuff Stuff. My engine was also dirty and the dirt just bubbled off after letting it sit for 40 seconds after spraying on. I used the nylon wheel brush for the grease build up. Dirt is easy to remove woth the spray.
08-16-2017, 01:31 AM
