DIY oil change without torque wrench, Y/N?
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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DIY oil change without torque wrench, Y/N?
I've been reading here about DIY oil & filter change and I've bought the necessary tools, filters and seals but I do not have a torque wrench, has anybody just tightened things to reasonable firmness without one? There is one in the local hardware store but at outrageous expense which I'm trying to avoid, sort of defeats the econimic side of DIY (but not the satisfaction).
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#3
Racer
I did my oil for the first time on my 997.2 this weekend. Though I did use two torque wrenches I already own, I would say they are not necessary. The 25 Nm spec on the plastic oil filter cap is really a no brainer. Just make sure it is threaded properly by starting it by hand and you'll know when the plastic cover is flush and can't be tightened any further. No need to over tighten. As far as the drain plug. 37 ft lb is really just setting it to a snug fit as on any other car. Good luck.
#4
Rennlist Member
I used the old glove tight method. Plastic doesn't allow for much torque. You can easily check for any leaks.
If it were a plastic tranny cover, I'd be more concerned bolts were torqued to spec and tightened in the proper order.
If it were a plastic tranny cover, I'd be more concerned bolts were torqued to spec and tightened in the proper order.
#6
I'd actually caution against torque wrench on oil plug. On my M3, I kept waiting for torque wrench to click and eventually broke off head and and had to get an extractor to get it out. Probably more of an issue with the wrench but now I just get it snug and have never had any issues.
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#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have a lift,five cars,commercial oil catch container and have never torqued a drain plug.
#10
Race Director
I don't use torque wrenches for oil changes either, but worst case, you can buy one for $10 from harbor freight. Accuracy would be crap for engine building (+/- 4%) but for this kinda stuff, I'd say it would get you in the ballpark.
#11
Burning Brakes
I must be weird, I've always used a torque wrench for tightening the drain plug and especially the plastic oil filter housing when I had a 996.
When you can get a torque wrench for $10 at HF, why would you not use it? The only way you can be certain that the aluminum crush washer (which you replace every time you remove the drain plug, right? It's only 20 cents) is crushed appropriately is by torquing the drain plug.
Also - you risk cracking the plastic oil filter housing on the 996 or 997.1 if you over-tighten it. I can imagine you could also strip the aluminum housing on the 997.2 if you over-tighten it.
We're driving $100k cars here folks, do your maintenance correctly.
#12
Drifting
I've been reading here about DIY oil & filter change and I've bought the necessary tools, filters and seals but I do not have a torque wrench, has anybody just tightened things to reasonable firmness without one? There is one in the local hardware store but at outrageous expense which I'm trying to avoid, sort of defeats the econimic side of DIY (but not the satisfaction).
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Given the soft (aluminum and plastic) parts that have to be screwed down, and the consequences of over or under-tightening, I'd not try it. Spend the $100 on a torque wrench.
#13
Drifting
#14
I have never used a torque wrench on my Japanese cars (I was young and dumb and didn't have the pocket change to acquire one) and have never had an issue. I tighten the drain bolt to the point of seeing the washer compress and hand tighten the oil filter to the suggested 3/4 to one full turn.
I have worked on my pop's 80s Mercedes diesel and never torqued things down either.
My first time working on the C4S, I had my certified mechanic shadow me. Suffice to say, the only we torque was the wheel bolts. He advised to always hand thread everything to start. With the drain bolt, tighten to crush the washer...that is why they are called crush washers. As for the plastic oil filter canister, just hand tighten after rubber seal contacts the base. I was **** and wanted to make sure to do it to a "t", but it is not necessary and he confirmed.
I have tried a torque wrench applied to a drain plug and oil filter and they do seem too high of a setting to apply. Like the person with the M3, way too much.
I have worked on my pop's 80s Mercedes diesel and never torqued things down either.
My first time working on the C4S, I had my certified mechanic shadow me. Suffice to say, the only we torque was the wheel bolts. He advised to always hand thread everything to start. With the drain bolt, tighten to crush the washer...that is why they are called crush washers. As for the plastic oil filter canister, just hand tighten after rubber seal contacts the base. I was **** and wanted to make sure to do it to a "t", but it is not necessary and he confirmed.
I have tried a torque wrench applied to a drain plug and oil filter and they do seem too high of a setting to apply. Like the person with the M3, way too much.
#15
Drifting
Use a torque wrench... it's a slippery slope once you start believing that you can guestimate how tight something should be. BTW, how would you gauge how tight it should be w/o a torque wrench in the 1st place. You'll start with not critical things at 1st then the next time you'll just guest the torque on something more critical such as the water pump. BTW, the oil drain plug is considered no big deal until you strip threading or don't have it in tight enough and it works it's way out. It's a worth while investment. GL.