Luke_01

USMC_DS1 Will it be possible to send me the PDF file please.
Thank you in advance.

My email is: lukas.van.rooyen@fluor.com
Luke

USMC_DS1

Luke, PDF sent. GL and post some pics.

cello

Nicely done!

Its cool to see these cars getting older and the Board 'mature' from almost exclusively 'color choices' and 'build out specs' to enthusiasts getting their hands dirty...

Pete Lech

Wow, Awesome DIY! Thank you for this. I have saved it for future use.

Is there a reason you did not replace the thermostat while you were in there? Perhaps it is easy to do at anytime?

My experience (in other cars) is that they tend to fail well before 100K miles. Maybe they are better now.

USMC_DS1

Thanks... actually I plan on replacing the t-stat with a low temp unit when my CPO runs out in 1.5 yrs. It should be at ~70K-75K miles at that point.

bandsmalter

I am doing this job right now and have these comments so far:

1.) Undertook the job before pump started leaking (67K miles). I noticed some play in the pump after inspecting why the drive belt was splitting between the ribs.

2.) The bolts on the exhaust system clamps were pretty rusted, I could not even get a socket to grip the head of one. Got one off when the head twisted off, the other I had to actually cut the clamp. If yours are rusted, order the part(s) from your dealer before reassembly.

3.) The video shows removal of two brackets. The first bracket clamps to the exhaust. The left torx bolt is tough to remove with the sport exhaust on my car (not sure f same problem on other cars). I decided to remove the right nut, then tap the bracket upward on the right side so I could access the small torx on the center of the second bracket with a socket. I then removed the second bracket with the first still installed. On my bench I have e clear shot at the torx head bolt.

4.) The water pump bolt in the 4:00 position is a hard one to access indeed. To make it easier I removed the lower idler pulley, then used my 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm flex socket.

Get the following tools and you will be happy you did: To refill the coolant If you need reading glasses . The lens has multiple levels of magnification so you can see the nuts and bolts better.

That is it for now. Hope this helps.

rvidal

Thanks USMC_DS1 for starting this thread.
I started my WP change yesterday and finished today.
It took me 5 hours. Straight forward...no complains. Second time should take less time...:-).
Filled the coolant without vaccum pump by rev and opening the vent valve. Drove it for a while and took more bubbles out.
Tomorrow will continue the flushing process. How to know when all the bubbles are away?. Temp looks good as always (80 deg C) sharp when hot.
My failure was quick...one day stopped and next day coolant under the car. Thinking back...I remember a strange noise for the past 4 or 5 rides...I should have read this thread before. Anyway, there was not damage.
Thanks again. Attached my 2007 C4S 74.550 kms. 25.000 kms with me in two years.

USMC_DS1

Congrats rvidal on a successful WP project and nice C4S!... BTW, two burp sessions should remove most of the bubble in your coolant system. To determine if all the bubbles are out I measured the amount of coolant removed and filled the system up with the equivalent amount of new coolant.

TokyoAutoShop

I did change Water pump(Geba brand) in my2007 C4S 997.1 too.
I brought it from Design911 UK.
The funny thing is, I used to have Boxster 987.1 two years ago and WP was broken then I got to change its.
Now, my 997.1 C4S cab, it's happened again. the timing belt in following photo as you can see it, the pressure came from Water pump did it.
At first I am so panic because it was broken when I drove it just less than 6 hours but right now everything just fine.

So, I decided to change in everything that I could figure it out
Oil Engine
Gear Oil
seperate oil (many piece of its)
O2sensor
spark coils

fatfat

hey USMC - Thank you for your post. 06 997C2 with 85,900km - noticed WP leaking huge today after getting out of vehicle at my office parking lot. now I know why the drive belt was squealing almost every time it started over last mouth or so.

hope I don't need a new belt too. regards, fatfat.

USMC_DS1

Sure thing fatfat... Glad you caught the failing WP. If that's the original s-belt then it would be time to get a new one. They're fairly inexpensive. GL and keep us posted.

fatfat

hi all, here is my plan of attack. I will replace the WP first, and run it until end of summer with pure water only.. drain and refill antifreeze around fall..

require parts 5 gallons plus new clamps - at 50$ a gallon, why not use pure water with 7PH in area with no freeze??

MikeM218

Its antifreeze AND COOLANT. The properties of the liquid decreases freezing point (that's the antifreeze part) and also increases the boiling point (that's the coolant part) relative to plain old water. Antifreeze/coolant also provides some lubrication to the water pump...and doesn't cause rust or corrosion (again relative to water). Probably not a good idea to run plain water, even if distilled.

door2416

Thanks USMC for your write up. I just spent most of the day replacing mine at 55k. Unfortuatedly it was not a preventative project. I did not drop the header only because I was afraid I would snap the studs. It would have saved a lot of time if I had. It must be nice to be able to work on southern cars without the rusted fasteners. It was very tight but I was able to get it out. One more observation was that the fins were fine but the bearing was shot. My symptoms were the same as Rvidal a rattle noise one day and then a puddle of coolant.

USMC_DS1

FWIW, I could only drain about 3+ gallons of coolant when I replaced my WP. A complete flush requires removal of the coolant lines running under the car. I did another partial flush of 3+ gallons during the 3rd rad install. The total capacity is ~8.7 gallons. I purchased my coolant for $35/gallon from Suncoast parts and cut each of these with another gallon of H2O. Since you're only R&Ring the WP you'll only need 2 gallons of Porsche coolant. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product..._Enginecoolant


+1 Door... good that the fins were in tact and you did not have to fish them out of the coolant system or worst yet the engine. Congrats on the successful WP R&R.