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For you guys getting painted consoles, I'd recommend that once you receive them, you take it to your local wrap guy and have clear paint protection.film applied, which will keep it looking like new for many years to come and avoid the top scratches that are on your current one.
That's one of the the things I love about my CF one - it's very durable and doesn't get scratched up. PPF on a painted one would be the same.
For you guys getting painted consoles, I'd recommend that once you receive them, you take it to your local wrap guy and have clear paint protection.film applied, which will keep it looking like new for many years to come and avoid the top scratches that are on your current one.
Great suggestion - thanks. Wish I'd thought of that before install.
I installed my Numeric shifter and Raceseng weighted shift **** over the weekend. Numeric's manual and the DIY thread helped for sure, but it still took me a few hours (albeit under less-than-ideal lighting conditions). My biggest issue was getting the black cable's metal retaining clip back in place, since there's a pillar in the shift unit blocking access. Of course, trying to remove the cable again to install the clip outside of the unit ended up with me breaking one part of the cable's plastic clip, but a strategically placed zip tie should keep it all in place until my indy replaces both cables with Numeric's heavy duty set in the next few weeks.
My other install issue was that for some reason, despite having the cable ends inserted into the blue/black clips to exactly the same depth as they were on the stock shifter (I even had taken a reference photo), the shifter wouldn't let me go left far enough to engage reverse. I was afraid I had absentmindedly moved the cables to 4th or 6th or something when I took the original unit out, meaning the Numeric's "neutral" was actually "in gear," but for whatever reason after popping the cable ends out and back in a few times in the same positions, worried I'd never get them aligned right and actually be able to drive the car, it magically loosened up and started working properly. From what I could tell, the blue cable was refusing to move and causing the issue.
I have to admit, the OEM Turbo shifter I pulled out is basically as smooth as the Numeric, so it's hard to imagine the new shifter making a whole lot of difference. The factory shifter, even with its plastic interfacing, is already buttery smooth, at least outside the car, and it appears that any tightness/slop/etc. is coming from the cables, not the shifter itself.
My first driving impression was hard to take in, with the heavy shift **** and shortened shift length. After raising the lever to the highest position, approximating factory height, it felt much more comfortable for me. Of course, on final install I managed to cross-thread the **** onto the soft aluminum adapter, so I'm out another $80 waiting for a replacement adapter to come in.
Overall, I'm thinking the **** and cables will make a greater difference than the shifter by itself. Maybe the non-Turbo shifters are grittier or squishier, though mine had 80k miles on it so I expected it to be in worse shape.
I installed the Numeric shifter and a weighted shift **** this past summer. It was a considerable improvement over the stock setup, but I felt it was still lacking. Today I installed Function First cable-ends and now I'm definitely satisfied with the way it shifts. Finally, the elusive "rifle-bolt" feel I've been wanting.
Install took no more than 30 minutes start to finish. I probably could have dome it in 20 if I'd of used a pair of end-cutters instead of side-cutters to remove the stock cable-end inserts.
I can't comment on NVH. It's parked until spring....and I'm doing Function First semi-solid engine mounts and their orange trans mount inserts tomorrow....and I have a cab, so increased NVH is no concern to me.
I got my Durametric last night, and plugged it up today. Just bought my 2009 C4S and was scared of what I would find. Several Error codes were thrown, and the program hangs and crashes on Air Conditioning Test, but this page made me happy.
Here are some of the codes that were thrown.
I am taking it in for 4 new TPMS sensors today at Costco. Was aware of that one...
I got my Durametric last night, and plugged it up today. Just bought my 2009 C4S and was scared of what I would find. Several Error codes were thrown, and the program hangs and crashes on Air Conditioning Test, but this page made me happy.
Here are some of the codes that were thrown.
I am taking it in for 4 new TPMS sensors today at Costco. Was aware of that one...
I was about to post the same question about C150 & C152. I have those exact codes yet have no idea what they are. Please let me know if you ever figure it out.
I was about to post the same question about C150 & C152. I have those exact codes yet have no idea what they are. Please let me know if you ever figure it out.
I cleared everything since the car is new to me, and I am going to see what pops back up after a few drives.
I cleared everything since the car is new to me, and I am going to see what pops back up after a few drives.
Was the car running when you ran the fault code report or just key on with hazard lights flashing? If key on only, that might be the cause of the PSM codes.
The lean condition on both banks points to an intake leak upstream of the MAF sensor if it comes back. Stock airbox, intake, and plenum?
Was the car running when you ran the fault code report or just key on with hazard lights flashing? If key on only, that might be the cause of the PSM codes.
The lean condition on both banks points to an intake leak upstream of the MAF sensor if it comes back. Stock airbox, intake, and plenum?
I totally forgot to turn on the hazard lights...and the car was not running, just on.
I re-did a test with the motor running. I only get an AC fault in addition to the TPMS.
I get a fault warning, but no code...
Last edited by Christian Stark; 01-12-2019 at 01:44 PM.
I installed the Numeric shifter and a weighted shift **** this past summer. It was a considerable improvement over the stock setup, but I felt it was still lacking. Today I installed Function First cable-ends and now I'm definitely satisfied with the way it shifts. Finally, the elusive "rifle-bolt" feel I've been wanting.
Install took no more than 30 minutes start to finish. I probably could have dome it in 20 if I'd of used a pair of end-cutters instead of side-cutters to remove the stock cable-end inserts.
I can't comment on NVH. It's parked until spring....and I'm doing Function First semi-solid engine mounts and their orange trans mount inserts tomorrow....and I have a cab, so increased NVH is no concern to me.
Yeah, after another week with the stock **** on there, I'm unfortunately falling to the skeptical side about the Numeric shifter by itself. Not sure how people are installing nothing but the shifter and then saying they've got that elusive "rifle bolt" thing going on.
I do think the cables will do the trick for me, though. To be honest, half the reason I want them is to bring some extra racecar NVH into the cabin.
I have the Porsche SSK in my car and bought a set of the Numeric cables from the Marketplace about a year ago at a pretty nice discount. They're sitti g in my parts cabinet and when the stock cables with plastic ends fail, I'll replace them, or if I'm bored one day. I think the precision cables with metal ends that don't flex may have as much or more to do with the feel than the shifter itself.
I've been wanting to install a dash cam for a while but really didn't want to hardwire another device to the fuse box. I ended up getting an Escort M1 that attaches directly to Escort radar detectors and uses the existing power cable. Its not perfect but it'll work for now. You'll notice its upside down - it not supposed to be used with my detector, a 9500ix, because the power connection is on the the wrong side. However it works just fine (other than being upside down) if you install it on the other side.
01-11-2019, 09:57 AM
From what I could tell, the blue cable was refusing to move and causing the issue.
