myw

much appreciated advice minok!

ait109

Thank you for this thread. This was the problem I was having on my 996 turbo. In my car part #18 consists of two pieces and the lower part (that was still solidly fitted to the lower hose) had come loose from the tee and only a small amount of fluid was dribbling out of the washers with the rest being sprayed all over the inside of the battery compartment.

Ed

Cloudspin

I'm having the same problem so it was great to see this resurrected thread. Thanks!

genyosai

I'm having the same issue with my 997.2 . The headlight washers work fine, so I figure the fuse to the entire washer system is fine, but my windshield washers do not spray.

Is there any write-up on how exactly to get to these hoses and to the windshield washer pump?

Thanks!

ait109

In my 996, open the hood and remove the battery cover. Activate windshield washers. If liquid is spraying everywhere then you should be easily able to see which of the tubes to the #18 tee that disconnected.

Ed

genyosai

Uhg. All of my lines are secured nicely. I guess my next question is..... how easy is it (and how) to get to the washer pump. Obviously the headlight washer and windshield washer use separate pumps because when I activate the windshield washer.... I don't hear anything, yet the headlight washer runs like a champ. I should at least hear the pump trying to do something if it were working.

When looking in the fuse panel, it seems that the headlight and windshield washer system is on the same circuit because I do not see a separate listing for each. Does anyone know this to be otherwise?

Thanks!

Minok

In many cars, the washer pump is located IN the washer fluid tank at the bottom of it - so go to the washer fluid tank and look for it there. Measure voltages at the plug to the pump to validate the wiring is good to the pump - then you know if its upstream wiring or the pump itself.

wwilliams88

I developed a severe leak in my windshield washer that was causing the tank to empty within 24 hours. The pumps appeared to be working, but i had to remove the tank to determine the cause. Turns out the internal seal of the windshield washer pump had failed and fluid was leaking out of the housing.

In the process I documented the steps needed to remove the tank for your reference in the attached PDF. Hope this helps.

jayi836

Wwilliams thanks for the DIY, my new to me 08 turbo, not working at all now. will check fuses and the pump.

amplitude

Ughh... Developed the leaky windshield washer fluid tank last week; evidenced by fluid dumping out aft of the driver's side front tire/ahead of the driver's door. At first, thought it was something more severe, but the fluid was clear, and got the washer fluid low warning upon start up. More a pain in the *** than anything else...

jayi836

Headlight washers are working guess its step 2, remove the wheel and liner to check the pump, I do hear a click when activating the windshield washer

Rocketsled1!

Hey All,
Thanks everyone for the great advice. Following all the great tips on here I also repaired my broken hose on my 2014 C4S. I did things a bit different and the small changes might prevent future breaks because it adds reinforcement to that damaged area

1. 3/16” barbed brass pipe splicer . I initially tried a 1/4” inner diameter plastic pipe splicer like some other users on here. However this 1/4” plastic part was too large and I had a hard time getting it to squeeze inside the brittle plastic hose on either broken end. I eventually tried to heat the pipe and soften it up, but I overdid it with the heat gun melted and withered a section of hose. Back to the drawing board I needed to trim off the melted portion of hose and get a smaller diameter 3/16” I.D. brass splicer. (I found this part at Home Depot but below added a purchase link to get something similar on Amazon)

2. Waterproof marine heat shrink tubing 2” long: Using a variety pack of heat shrink tubing, I found the best size that would fit over the hose. Before splicing the hose I slipped this shrink tubing over one end of broken hose and slid it back out of the way. After making the splice, I slid the heat shrink tube back over the repaired section until it was centered over the splice area. Again I used the heat gun taking care not to melt anything else nearby. I placed silicone oven pads from the kitchen on the plastic cowl and hood to be sure I didn’t damage surrounding areas with the heat gun. This heat shrink tubing has an adhesive that melts and binds everything together nicely. The repaired section now fits back inside the channel and the black trim cover snaps back into place . Here are Amazon links to purchase similar items I used :


Legines Brass Hose Barb Fitting, Mender/Splicer/Joiner/Union, 3/16" Barb x 3/16" Barb, Tubing Hose Adapter/Coupler, 2 pcs https://a.co/d/30uuEv8

Wirefy Heat Shrink Tubing Kit - 3:1 Ratio Adhesive Lined, Marine Grade Shrink Wrap - Industrial Heat-Shrink Tubing - Black 180 PCS https://a.co/d/8jwwecw