DIY – GT3RS fabric door pull conversion
11-23-2011, 09:09 PM
#31
Thank you for your prompt reply on an aged topic.
We had looked at that option. Fortunately the cables were readily available. After 29 carbon fiber pieces installed I bit the bullet and ordered the cables. Turns out the shop had one so I am waiting on one. My Cayman is gonna be SICK. I have replaced all the wear areas in the interior with carbon fiber and the exterior side vents and wing. The seat backs are next. I found a set for less than a grand. I hope they are still available by the time this posts.
We had looked at that option. Fortunately the cables were readily available. After 29 carbon fiber pieces installed I bit the bullet and ordered the cables. Turns out the shop had one so I am waiting on one. My Cayman is gonna be SICK. I have replaced all the wear areas in the interior with carbon fiber and the exterior side vents and wing. The seat backs are next. I found a set for less than a grand. I hope they are still available by the time this posts.
08-04-2013, 12:28 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
I know this is an old thread... I had the wild idea I wanted a little bling in my .1 RS so I ordered these in silver from Suncoast. Kudos to them for putting together the full kit and HUGE thanks to this thread on the how-to. Even with, this is a pretty time consuming mod for a pretty simple end result. There is no weight savings that I can see here... didn't weigh but the only parts different is the pull and handle, and you're replacing a plastic handle with a fabric pull + a cover. I think it's weight neutral. They look great though.
One note: the last couple posts, if you have a .1 car you need new bowden cables as the .1 and .2 cars have a different end on the door handle side (old is a metal angle to hook on the axle, new is plastic round end) or I guess you could mod the axel mount like mentioned. I didn't and used the cables that suncoast supplied. The part number is: 997-537-319-03. Current retail is about $20 each, suncoast includes in the kit. On the trim panel removal, I found using a 1/4" drill with a drill stop (like a collar you bolt on the bit) setup for about 1/4" depth worked best to remove the OEM part. Mine should be reusable.
Installing the cable is a PITA. You need to remove the inner door panel. ***REMOVE BATTERY NEGATIVE BEFORE DOING THIS*** Remove Qty 9 T30 screws. Pull gently, push in the rubber caps with the wires and cables near the airbag. Pull inner panel, it will not come off, just separates enough to get inside. To remove you will need to remove the power window setup which I did NOT do. There is also a small clamp in the middle of the door holding a window cable, reach in and unhook this, you will now have enough room to work. Pull the cable through, and use all the dexterity you have to unhook the metal and on the latch mechanism. You need to rotate the cable so the wire is pointing down, then it simply pulls out of the latch. I used a long flat head screwdriver to assist. Installing the new cable is the same, just work it in there and you will get it eventually. Then pull the cable through mounting hole, reinstall the 2 rubber grommets, reinstall the window wire clamp, then bolt it back up. It's possible you may be able to remove the latch mechanism for easier access, but the screw is a triple square (similar to the steering wheel bolt), maybe an M7, I had an M6 but it was too small, and my M8 was too big, plus I didn't want to have alignment issues with the latch. Sorry I didn't take pics of this!
One note: the last couple posts, if you have a .1 car you need new bowden cables as the .1 and .2 cars have a different end on the door handle side (old is a metal angle to hook on the axle, new is plastic round end) or I guess you could mod the axel mount like mentioned. I didn't and used the cables that suncoast supplied. The part number is: 997-537-319-03. Current retail is about $20 each, suncoast includes in the kit. On the trim panel removal, I found using a 1/4" drill with a drill stop (like a collar you bolt on the bit) setup for about 1/4" depth worked best to remove the OEM part. Mine should be reusable.
Installing the cable is a PITA. You need to remove the inner door panel. ***REMOVE BATTERY NEGATIVE BEFORE DOING THIS*** Remove Qty 9 T30 screws. Pull gently, push in the rubber caps with the wires and cables near the airbag. Pull inner panel, it will not come off, just separates enough to get inside. To remove you will need to remove the power window setup which I did NOT do. There is also a small clamp in the middle of the door holding a window cable, reach in and unhook this, you will now have enough room to work. Pull the cable through, and use all the dexterity you have to unhook the metal and on the latch mechanism. You need to rotate the cable so the wire is pointing down, then it simply pulls out of the latch. I used a long flat head screwdriver to assist. Installing the new cable is the same, just work it in there and you will get it eventually. Then pull the cable through mounting hole, reinstall the 2 rubber grommets, reinstall the window wire clamp, then bolt it back up. It's possible you may be able to remove the latch mechanism for easier access, but the screw is a triple square (similar to the steering wheel bolt), maybe an M7, I had an M6 but it was too small, and my M8 was too big, plus I didn't want to have alignment issues with the latch. Sorry I didn't take pics of this!
09-03-2015, 10:03 PM
#34
Big thanks for OP for this excellent post. I followed the instruction and successfully completed this mod.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ull-strap.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ull-strap.html
07-19-2017, 12:11 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
^^^ OP last logged-in Oct of 16. So not likely.
07-20-2017, 01:30 AM
#37
I know this isn't the right thread to post this question but since someone above asked...
Photobucket really screwed us. Half the photos on this forum are gone now. What sites are people using to host photos now?
Photobucket really screwed us. Half the photos on this forum are gone now. What sites are people using to host photos now?
Last edited by FLA 997; 07-20-2017 at 02:26 AM.
07-27-2017, 10:14 AM
#39
Pro
Thread Starter
07-28-2017, 03:14 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
08-10-2017, 02:34 AM
#44
Understatement of the century. I got the door panels off ok, took me about 30 minutes to remove both, drill and burn the old door spears, and screw the new ones in place. I spent the next 9 hours trying to get the stupid door cable in place. Got drunk, said screw it ill let the dealer do it, and while I was putting the passenger door back together I bumped it, causing it to fall breaking the window switch and the little light on the bottom. FML
dealer will take care of the rest on saturday.
dealer will take care of the rest on saturday.
I know this is an old thread... I had the wild idea I wanted a little bling in my .1 RS so I ordered these in silver from Suncoast. Kudos to them for putting together the full kit and HUGE thanks to this thread on the how-to. Even with, this is a pretty time consuming mod for a pretty simple end result. There is no weight savings that I can see here... didn't weigh but the only parts different is the pull and handle, and you're replacing a plastic handle with a fabric pull + a cover. I think it's weight neutral. They look great though.
One note: the last couple posts, if you have a .1 car you need new bowden cables as the .1 and .2 cars have a different end on the door handle side (old is a metal angle to hook on the axle, new is plastic round end) or I guess you could mod the axel mount like mentioned. I didn't and used the cables that suncoast supplied. The part number is: 997-537-319-03. Current retail is about $20 each, suncoast includes in the kit. On the trim panel removal, I found using a 1/4" drill with a drill stop (like a collar you bolt on the bit) setup for about 1/4" depth worked best to remove the OEM part. Mine should be reusable.
Installing the cable is a PITA. You need to remove the inner door panel. ***REMOVE BATTERY NEGATIVE BEFORE DOING THIS*** Remove Qty 9 T30 screws. Pull gently, push in the rubber caps with the wires and cables near the airbag. Pull inner panel, it will not come off, just separates enough to get inside. To remove you will need to remove the power window setup which I did NOT do. There is also a small clamp in the middle of the door holding a window cable, reach in and unhook this, you will now have enough room to work. Pull the cable through, and use all the dexterity you have to unhook the metal and on the latch mechanism. You need to rotate the cable so the wire is pointing down, then it simply pulls out of the latch. I used a long flat head screwdriver to assist. Installing the new cable is the same, just work it in there and you will get it eventually. Then pull the cable through mounting hole, reinstall the 2 rubber grommets, reinstall the window wire clamp, then bolt it back up. It's possible you may be able to remove the latch mechanism for easier access, but the screw is a triple square (similar to the steering wheel bolt), maybe an M7, I had an M6 but it was too small, and my M8 was too big, plus I didn't want to have alignment issues with the latch. Sorry I didn't take pics of this!
One note: the last couple posts, if you have a .1 car you need new bowden cables as the .1 and .2 cars have a different end on the door handle side (old is a metal angle to hook on the axle, new is plastic round end) or I guess you could mod the axel mount like mentioned. I didn't and used the cables that suncoast supplied. The part number is: 997-537-319-03. Current retail is about $20 each, suncoast includes in the kit. On the trim panel removal, I found using a 1/4" drill with a drill stop (like a collar you bolt on the bit) setup for about 1/4" depth worked best to remove the OEM part. Mine should be reusable.
Installing the cable is a PITA. You need to remove the inner door panel. ***REMOVE BATTERY NEGATIVE BEFORE DOING THIS*** Remove Qty 9 T30 screws. Pull gently, push in the rubber caps with the wires and cables near the airbag. Pull inner panel, it will not come off, just separates enough to get inside. To remove you will need to remove the power window setup which I did NOT do. There is also a small clamp in the middle of the door holding a window cable, reach in and unhook this, you will now have enough room to work. Pull the cable through, and use all the dexterity you have to unhook the metal and on the latch mechanism. You need to rotate the cable so the wire is pointing down, then it simply pulls out of the latch. I used a long flat head screwdriver to assist. Installing the new cable is the same, just work it in there and you will get it eventually. Then pull the cable through mounting hole, reinstall the 2 rubber grommets, reinstall the window wire clamp, then bolt it back up. It's possible you may be able to remove the latch mechanism for easier access, but the screw is a triple square (similar to the steering wheel bolt), maybe an M7, I had an M6 but it was too small, and my M8 was too big, plus I didn't want to have alignment issues with the latch. Sorry I didn't take pics of this!
11-26-2017, 05:43 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
For any of you doing this mod or chaning the door finishers behind the door handle here’s a little lesson I learned while doing this mod.
IF you are going to use screws to hold the new door finishing pieces in place rather than melting the plastic posts, you will need to provide additional clearance between the door latch axle assembly and the head of the screw that is directly behing the door latch axle assembly. It’s the one right behind the pin. I used a dremel tool and sand away about 1/8”. The axle post is very thick and is not an item that sees heavy torque so removing plastic from the shaft is fine. If you don’t do this, your door latches will not seat properly against the door. I had my driver’s door all the way back on before I realized this. I suggest test fitting the door handle prior to replacing the door panel back on the door. Other than that, great write up. Was very helpful. You just have to take you time as many of the plastic pieces on the door panel/card will break if you are too rough. Also, you will have to reset your power windows after you reconnect your battery. Just hold the window switch in the up position for about 5-10 seconds. Then lower the window and the do the same thing in the down position. Do dirver and passenger and you will be good to go. If you don’t do this, you auto/auto down feature will not work.
IF you are going to use screws to hold the new door finishing pieces in place rather than melting the plastic posts, you will need to provide additional clearance between the door latch axle assembly and the head of the screw that is directly behing the door latch axle assembly. It’s the one right behind the pin. I used a dremel tool and sand away about 1/8”. The axle post is very thick and is not an item that sees heavy torque so removing plastic from the shaft is fine. If you don’t do this, your door latches will not seat properly against the door. I had my driver’s door all the way back on before I realized this. I suggest test fitting the door handle prior to replacing the door panel back on the door. Other than that, great write up. Was very helpful. You just have to take you time as many of the plastic pieces on the door panel/card will break if you are too rough. Also, you will have to reset your power windows after you reconnect your battery. Just hold the window switch in the up position for about 5-10 seconds. Then lower the window and the do the same thing in the down position. Do dirver and passenger and you will be good to go. If you don’t do this, you auto/auto down feature will not work.