DIY – 997 Door panel removal
#46
Rennlist Member
Anyway to get the pictures back?
#48
Rennlist Member
It does. Many thanks
#49
Three Wheelin'
Well that was perfect timing. I checked this out a few hours ago and the images were missing. With some help from RL I found the part for $8 on my local dealer site:
https://www.sonnenporscheoemparts.co...MtNmwtaDYtZ2Fz
I am going to pickup tmrw and will report back after I tackle.
https://www.sonnenporscheoemparts.co...MtNmwtaDYtZ2Fz
I am going to pickup tmrw and will report back after I tackle.
#51
The spring retainer clip on the base of my driver's door latch pivot just popped and the dealer quoted me $800 to replace the pivot and door cable because the new style of pivot does not fit the old cable. They estimated 3hours of labor plus $80 in parts. Indie wanted $400.
$23 for the pivot from Pelican. I left the old pivot arm in place and replaced it's broken base with the new base (identical parts). The broken one upside down will be good for the passenger side in case that one breaks too.
Total procedure was under 30 minutes.
Thanks guys!
$23 for the pivot from Pelican. I left the old pivot arm in place and replaced it's broken base with the new base (identical parts). The broken one upside down will be good for the passenger side in case that one breaks too.
Total procedure was under 30 minutes.
Thanks guys!
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Summerjack (07-31-2022)
#52
I have a 997.1. The new replacement part is not entirely compatible with the stock part. I did only use the part that was broken (and, took this off the new part). The challenge in doing this involves getting the spring in the correct position. I hope this helps someone else with their repair.
#53
Three Wheelin'
Thanks. This will come in handy tomorrow morning when I do this on my 2009 997.2.
Okay so I couldn’t sleep so I thought I would tackle this tonight. 1 hour from start to finish and very easy even without one of my boys to help. It was nerve wracking popping the door panel off. I swear something was going to break as it took quite a bit of pressure to get the door panel off, but I didn’t even break any of the pops. Like everyone has said the new part is a little different than the original part, but like everyone else I just used the bottom portion of the new part. Remember to align the handle on the micro switch before putting the door panel back on or you will need to pull it off to realign. Thanks to the OP for the thread as it was super helpful. Goodnight.
Okay so I couldn’t sleep so I thought I would tackle this tonight. 1 hour from start to finish and very easy even without one of my boys to help. It was nerve wracking popping the door panel off. I swear something was going to break as it took quite a bit of pressure to get the door panel off, but I didn’t even break any of the pops. Like everyone has said the new part is a little different than the original part, but like everyone else I just used the bottom portion of the new part. Remember to align the handle on the micro switch before putting the door panel back on or you will need to pull it off to realign. Thanks to the OP for the thread as it was super helpful. Goodnight.
Last edited by doclouie; 10-12-2019 at 01:28 AM.
The following users liked this post:
8x57IRS (07-06-2020)
#54
Rennlist Member
Thought I'd share my experience removing the door panel for the purposes of replacing the interior door latch mechanism that made the latch loose (on my 987). First, this DIY thread was a great help. (I used the hybrid method so I didn't have to replace the cable.)
-I ended up taking the door panel off twice (more on that later). The first time I just brute forced it. That was more challenge than I expected. Lots of tugging, use of plastic & wooden pieces to get leverage. Eventually I got the panel off OK but I did damage one of the plastic 'welds' that hold the door panel to the plastic frame. (Not a huge deal as there are many of those and I just super-glued it back together.) The second time I ended up buying the official Porsche 'removal pliers' (for $140). They were pricey, but made the removal procedure much more civilized. (You can buy such a tool for $20, but based on photos I don't think the working end of those is long enough to reach the clips.) With these pliers you simply use a plastic tool to create some space, visually locate the clip in the gap, and then pop out each clip with this tool.
-I ended replacing all of the clips with new ones. (My alldatadiy.com online manual said to.)
-I recommend taping the inside edge of the door to prevent marring the painted surface... especially if you do it the brute force method.
-Finally, the reason why I did it twice. I was a little cavalier in checking the alignment of the inside door latch before installing the panel. I did check the alignment but based my check on the latch itself and how it looked/fit rather than looking at that little tab that sticks out of the back of the latch and presses on a switch (in a little hole, lower right in the photo below). So I reinstalled the door panel and quickly noticed that that tab didn't line up well with the switch hole. Argh! Rather that brute forcing the second time, I decided to get the tool. All is back together and good now.
-I ended up taking the door panel off twice (more on that later). The first time I just brute forced it. That was more challenge than I expected. Lots of tugging, use of plastic & wooden pieces to get leverage. Eventually I got the panel off OK but I did damage one of the plastic 'welds' that hold the door panel to the plastic frame. (Not a huge deal as there are many of those and I just super-glued it back together.) The second time I ended up buying the official Porsche 'removal pliers' (for $140). They were pricey, but made the removal procedure much more civilized. (You can buy such a tool for $20, but based on photos I don't think the working end of those is long enough to reach the clips.) With these pliers you simply use a plastic tool to create some space, visually locate the clip in the gap, and then pop out each clip with this tool.
-I ended replacing all of the clips with new ones. (My alldatadiy.com online manual said to.)
-I recommend taping the inside edge of the door to prevent marring the painted surface... especially if you do it the brute force method.
-Finally, the reason why I did it twice. I was a little cavalier in checking the alignment of the inside door latch before installing the panel. I did check the alignment but based my check on the latch itself and how it looked/fit rather than looking at that little tab that sticks out of the back of the latch and presses on a switch (in a little hole, lower right in the photo below). So I reinstalled the door panel and quickly noticed that that tab didn't line up well with the switch hole. Argh! Rather that brute forcing the second time, I decided to get the tool. All is back together and good now.
#55
Instructor
I have a 997.1. The new replacement part is not entirely compatible with the stock part. I did only use the part that was broken (and, took this off the new part). The challenge in doing this involves getting the spring in the correct position. I hope this helps someone else with their repair.
I suggest locking the shorter side of the spring in place, attaching the bracket making sure the tab is flush to the body, holding tightly in place, and pulling the longer end of the spring over the tab. Seems like lowest risk of snapping the tab.
#56
Instructor
This video is specifically about doing the door lever/hinge.
A combo of this video and thread helped me get through it relatively smoothly. I was able to make modifications along the way. The upper trim piece with the side mirror adjuster can be opened and pushed out of the way to access the bolt without removing the wiring. Two, I was able to prop the door card onto a box and lean it over. From there, I was able to remove the handle without taking off the wires. For those, who want to not deal with the potential of snapping any more clips, it can be done this way. Also, I was not able to take the trim off surrounding the pull handle, but this write-up showed me that I could access the bolt without removing it entirely. A small extension was needed to reach deep enough into the hole to access the bolt, but it was safer than continuing to pull and snap a clip.
A combo of this video and thread helped me get through it relatively smoothly. I was able to make modifications along the way. The upper trim piece with the side mirror adjuster can be opened and pushed out of the way to access the bolt without removing the wiring. Two, I was able to prop the door card onto a box and lean it over. From there, I was able to remove the handle without taking off the wires. For those, who want to not deal with the potential of snapping any more clips, it can be done this way. Also, I was not able to take the trim off surrounding the pull handle, but this write-up showed me that I could access the bolt without removing it entirely. A small extension was needed to reach deep enough into the hole to access the bolt, but it was safer than continuing to pull and snap a clip.
#58
Three Wheelin'
#59
Rennlist Member
AAAArgh - pulling the panel off is impossible - It took me all of 10 minutes to remove all 5 fasteners and get ready to pop the panel. I have all the trim tools. An hour and a half later - Failure! The panel will not pop off. At this point I don't care if I break it all. I just want the damn thing off. Any tips/tricks? I removed many a door panel from Boxsters, and 928s. Similar thing, remove screws, then pop off with tools. No dice here on my 997.
#60
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 171K miles
The door panel has an inner panel. You may be sticking your tool into the wrong slot. Don't go so deep. If you slide your tool in behind the inner panel, you will bend it... it is metal. They do pop.
When you do get the panel off.... make sure to reset the clips. Some will reset, others not. I keep a bag of spares... they are pretty touch and can handle a removal or two.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
The door panel has an inner panel. You may be sticking your tool into the wrong slot. Don't go so deep. If you slide your tool in behind the inner panel, you will bend it... it is metal. They do pop.
When you do get the panel off.... make sure to reset the clips. Some will reset, others not. I keep a bag of spares... they are pretty touch and can handle a removal or two.
Peace
Bruce in Philly