When do you need to replace spark plugs?
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ManoTexas (02-15-2021)
#32
put in my experience... changed spark plugs 997.2, looked intimidating at first but quite simple if all bolts cooperate... and done in 2 hours max...
have done a lot harder stuff... rank it 5 of 10.. 10 being the most difficult
have done a lot harder stuff... rank it 5 of 10.. 10 being the most difficult
#35
Burning Brakes
So I recently helped a buddy do it on his 2011 TTS (997.2). I would say it was more of a time consuming job than a particularly difficult one if you carefully take your time and think it through. If you have basic mechanical inclination, and tools I would not shy away from it. Five of the six plugs/coils had ok access. One was challenging, but no need to drop engine. You will need a nice assortment of ratchet extensions/swivels.
Involved removing rear wheels, wheel well liners, rear bumper and dropping intercoolers, as it was a turbo. (Obviously if you have centerlock wheels you need access to an appropriate torque wrench, which may tip the scale toward having the dealer do it). Should be an easier job on a non-turbo.
Overall, two long evenings of work. I think dealer quoted something like $1,200, but not sure if that was plugs and coils, or just plugs.
BTW, he did this at 9,000 miles! Bought car used and I think he just wanted to do some wrenching. It was likely way-overkill to do plug job with less than 10,000 miles, but given the age of the car, his concern was seized threads.
Involved removing rear wheels, wheel well liners, rear bumper and dropping intercoolers, as it was a turbo. (Obviously if you have centerlock wheels you need access to an appropriate torque wrench, which may tip the scale toward having the dealer do it). Should be an easier job on a non-turbo.
Overall, two long evenings of work. I think dealer quoted something like $1,200, but not sure if that was plugs and coils, or just plugs.
BTW, he did this at 9,000 miles! Bought car used and I think he just wanted to do some wrenching. It was likely way-overkill to do plug job with less than 10,000 miles, but given the age of the car, his concern was seized threads.
#36
I've got a 2011 C2S and changed my own. I don't think you need to change them at 4 years, modern plugs don't wear all that much. It is not a difficult job but really having a lift would be the only way I'd do it. I did take off part of the muffler system and there was one bolt that needed a s shaped wrench but other than that it is just using a lot of socket extensions. I think the plugs themselves are around $8 a piece so if you can get a shop to change them out for a couple hundred it's probably worth it. With all the shoddy work that goes on, if I can do it myself, I try and do just that.
#37
Rennlist Member
10$ BS plug change
2.5 patient hours with couple lattes and wee breaks with proper tools, creeper and 2 AC jacks. 9k miles so time only. None stuck, all light tanInsulates, on oily threads) and 4 tip Bosch platinums (original) easily reusable but changed “for the therapy”...
#38
Rennlist Member
I have a 2009 C4S. Just had mine changed along with new coils at my indy at 80K miles because I couldn't validate that previous owner did them at 60K . Dealer quoted $518, another dealer quoted $464, indy was $420
#39
I've got a red-beast 911 Carrera a few years ago. I always wanted a Porsche, it's like a childhood dream, which doesn't make sense at all because I'm a grown-up man with two kids and have to drive a minivan or something. I've changed the spark plugs when I reached 62.000 miles and I did it myself. Not sure how much it costs to take it to a dealer, I just thought I didn't want to spend extra cash. My parents got in trouble with a mortgage loan - they live in Essex - and I will definitely need money to help them pay it off. And I also hired a mortgage consultant, Mortgage Advice Essex, so I can't spend much on my red babe.
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zmcreynolds (04-10-2024)
#40
Instructor
Also I agree, You still want to factor in time. If plugs corrode in the head and damage or strip the plug hole threads, you would be in deep dodo. Really the cost of plugs and time is one of the smallest investements you can make every 4 years or 60,000 miles.
John
#41
Rennlist Member
Those long connectors to the plug come out with the coil packs. On my 997.1 it was not that difficult.
Also I agree, You still want to factor in time. If plugs corrode in the head and damage or strip the plug hole threads, you would be in deep dodo. Really the cost of plugs and time is one of the smallest investements you can make every 4 years or 60,000 miles.
John
Also I agree, You still want to factor in time. If plugs corrode in the head and damage or strip the plug hole threads, you would be in deep dodo. Really the cost of plugs and time is one of the smallest investements you can make every 4 years or 60,000 miles.
John
My '09 C2S had about 27k miles on it when I had the plugs changed. They were the originals - so about 11 years in the engine.
After seeing them when they were removed, I was really glad I had it done. (Previously I had thought that with only 27k miles on them, I might be ok for a little longer.)
The car ran much better with the new plugs.
27k miles - 11 years old.
#42
Between my and friends' cars I've replaced plugs a half dozen times on 997s. I've replaced plugs many dozens of times on other aluminum blocks.
As for the 997, the plugs always creak on the way out. It feels terrible to me. I would not go beyond time or mileage between changes. By either of those standards the attachment between plug and block has formed as much or more than I like.
There are many here that may disagree with me. I am probably ultra sensitive due to my background and experience. But IMHO proactive changes aren't that expensive and a lot less of a hassle than a damaged block.
Notes: Having used taps to thread steel and cast iron (no tapping fluid on cast please) as well as other materials thousands of times, I am used to reversing the tap every few turns to clean the threads. I tried this on my 997.2 plugs the first time I changed them. Do NOT do this!!! The micro chips you are creating as you remove the plug will dig into the block on the reversed direction and lock the plug solidly in place (per the way I see it). Due to these chips, vacuum the hole before installing the new plugs. Modern plugs have a shiny coating on them that is a one time anti seize. The major players all say that anti seize should not be used on these plugs. If you have dark (not coated) threads then anti seize is appropriate. The plating is sacrificial (thus my model of microchips upon removal) so these plugs are one time use.
As for the 997, the plugs always creak on the way out. It feels terrible to me. I would not go beyond time or mileage between changes. By either of those standards the attachment between plug and block has formed as much or more than I like.
There are many here that may disagree with me. I am probably ultra sensitive due to my background and experience. But IMHO proactive changes aren't that expensive and a lot less of a hassle than a damaged block.
Notes: Having used taps to thread steel and cast iron (no tapping fluid on cast please) as well as other materials thousands of times, I am used to reversing the tap every few turns to clean the threads. I tried this on my 997.2 plugs the first time I changed them. Do NOT do this!!! The micro chips you are creating as you remove the plug will dig into the block on the reversed direction and lock the plug solidly in place (per the way I see it). Due to these chips, vacuum the hole before installing the new plugs. Modern plugs have a shiny coating on them that is a one time anti seize. The major players all say that anti seize should not be used on these plugs. If you have dark (not coated) threads then anti seize is appropriate. The plating is sacrificial (thus my model of microchips upon removal) so these plugs are one time use.
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Ironman88 (02-15-2021)
#43
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Cairns, North Queensland, Australia
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Bosch sparkplug date code chart
There is a (now) 3 digit code stamped onto the side of the plug body which is traceable back to the manufacture date..
I yanked plugs last month, and discovered they were from 2015, but as usual I had already bought a full suite of Bosch Bungas.
If you're not sure about your car's plug history, pull the easiest plug and read it's date code off this chart.
the one for the mantle piece would be the Nov '69 vintage
I yanked plugs last month, and discovered they were from 2015, but as usual I had already bought a full suite of Bosch Bungas.
If you're not sure about your car's plug history, pull the easiest plug and read it's date code off this chart.
the one for the mantle piece would be the Nov '69 vintage
#45
Rennlist Member
Between my and friends' cars I've replaced plugs a half dozen times on 997s. I've replaced plugs many dozens of times on other aluminum blocks.
As for the 997, the plugs always creak on the way out. It feels terrible to me. I would not go beyond time or mileage between changes. By either of those standards the attachment between plug and block has formed as much or more than I like.
There are many here that may disagree with me. I am probably ultra sensitive due to my background and experience. But IMHO proactive changes aren't that expensive and a lot less of a hassle than a damaged block.
Notes: Having used taps to thread steel and cast iron (no tapping fluid on cast please) as well as other materials thousands of times, I am used to reversing the tap every few turns to clean the threads. I tried this on my 997.2 plugs the first time I changed them. Do NOT do this!!! The micro chips you are creating as you remove the plug will dig into the block on the reversed direction and lock the plug solidly in place (per the way I see it). Due to these chips, vacuum the hole before installing the new plugs. Modern plugs have a shiny coating on them that is a one time anti seize. The major players all say that anti seize should not be used on these plugs. If you have dark (not coated) threads then anti seize is appropriate. The plating is sacrificial (thus my model of microchips upon removal) so these plugs are one time use.
As for the 997, the plugs always creak on the way out. It feels terrible to me. I would not go beyond time or mileage between changes. By either of those standards the attachment between plug and block has formed as much or more than I like.
There are many here that may disagree with me. I am probably ultra sensitive due to my background and experience. But IMHO proactive changes aren't that expensive and a lot less of a hassle than a damaged block.
Notes: Having used taps to thread steel and cast iron (no tapping fluid on cast please) as well as other materials thousands of times, I am used to reversing the tap every few turns to clean the threads. I tried this on my 997.2 plugs the first time I changed them. Do NOT do this!!! The micro chips you are creating as you remove the plug will dig into the block on the reversed direction and lock the plug solidly in place (per the way I see it). Due to these chips, vacuum the hole before installing the new plugs. Modern plugs have a shiny coating on them that is a one time anti seize. The major players all say that anti seize should not be used on these plugs. If you have dark (not coated) threads then anti seize is appropriate. The plating is sacrificial (thus my model of microchips upon removal) so these plugs are one time use.
https://www.driven2automotive.com/bl...g-spark-plugs/