Road salt rust concerns?
09-30-2009, 03:12 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
I wouldn't black list any region for those factors. I'm MUCH more concerned about washed titles in a few states, chop/rebuild in others, and similar practices - but ultimately the only way to know is to inspect the car - for all mechanical, structural and other damage/issues.
09-30-2009, 03:22 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
For those of you who have experience (many above seem do!), what do you do to take care of the car during the winter? My wife plans to drive her Cayman S during the winter (New England area).. we will get snow tires, of course, but what else do we need to do? Wash the undercarriage of the car w/ waterhose weekly? (hmm, how do I get water out onto the driveway.. hmm.. I am guessing the garden hose outlet would all be frozen by then.. ha!)
Mid Fall (before first freeze):
Full wash to remove all wax/protectants.
Apply polymer protectant (we use Klasse, there are others) to winter wheels all surfaces.
Apply Klasse AOI and sealant to paint.
Clean interior leather and vinyl surfaces, take care of any carpet issues.
Clean clear bra areas with Plexus
Mount winter wheels/tires
clean and polymer-protect summer wheels, store (ideally where temps stay above 32f)
Drive car.
Wash as needed (usually weekly for us) with ONR and two buckets (warm with ONR and warm rinse water), per their instructions and videos on YouTube. Note that this does not do anything for the underside or engine. We don't detail our engines as these are high mileage daily drivers.
On occasion esp after a lot of salt (but when it is largely gone from the roads) go to touchless wash. A guy who details cars well here suggests going to the coin do-it-yourself wash and using the high-pressure spray with NO soap. I'd rather use ONR with warm water in a closed garage myself.
By 6 months the car needs to be cleaned up again, maybe clayed and re sealed. And that's about the time we switch to summer wheels/tires again. Always store the ones coming off clean and freshly protected.
Drive it a lot in the first heavy spring rains - that really helps flush out the nooks and crannies.
Enjoy the car. It can take it.
09-30-2009, 03:34 PM
#18
Addict
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It's simply cheaper to not drive your car in winter.....wheels,tires, wear/tear, etc, etc.
I live in Wisconsin......winter is long......I am not that cheap and I enjoy driving way too much.
The cars are run through a touchless w/underbody flush 1-2 times a week on the way home.....when I can, it's a garage job.....when we built we put in heat/water/drain.
993 is only car that has had issues but it was in the classic common places (for a 993).
I live in Wisconsin......winter is long......I am not that cheap and I enjoy driving way too much.
The cars are run through a touchless w/underbody flush 1-2 times a week on the way home.....when I can, it's a garage job.....when we built we put in heat/water/drain.
993 is only car that has had issues but it was in the classic common places (for a 993).
09-30-2009, 03:44 PM
#19
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Consider this: when it comes to resale value, each and every vehicle out there (save and except a few lucky ones) is like a gun shot victim: all you can do is try to slow down the bleeding. I have 3000 miles on my '10 C4S (in just 3 weeks of ownership) which I will drive in our Canadian Winter. If I am gonna loose half my money in the next four years, the least I can do is enjoy it to the fullest. Saving milage and avoiding winters MIGHT increase the cars' value a fraction. But, c'mon, really, why spend so much money on anything if you are already worried how much of it you gonna get back. I do, however, spend endless hours (and $$$) washing and waxing. My maintainance schedule is also extremely vigirous.
P.S. My 20 year old 964 C4 Cab had 130K miles on it, with the first 5 years as a year round car. It did not know what rust is.
Enjoy and maintain - That's what I say.
P.S. My 20 year old 964 C4 Cab had 130K miles on it, with the first 5 years as a year round car. It did not know what rust is.
Enjoy and maintain - That's what I say.
09-30-2009, 07:54 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Consider this: when it comes to resale value, each and every vehicle out there (save and except a few lucky ones) is like a gun shot victim: all you can do is try to slow down the bleeding. I have 3000 miles on my '10 C4S (in just 3 weeks of ownership) which I will drive in our Canadian Winter. If I am gonna loose half my money in the next four years, the least I can do is enjoy it to the fullest. Saving milage and avoiding winters MIGHT increase the cars' value a fraction. But, c'mon, really, why spend so much money on anything if you are already worried how much of it you gonna get back. I do, however, spend endless hours (and $$$) washing and waxing. My maintainance schedule is also extremely vigirous.
P.S. My 20 year old 964 C4 Cab had 130K miles on it, with the first 5 years as a year round car. It did not know what rust is.
Enjoy and maintain - That's what I say.
P.S. My 20 year old 964 C4 Cab had 130K miles on it, with the first 5 years as a year round car. It did not know what rust is.
Enjoy and maintain - That's what I say.
09-30-2009, 08:14 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
I've lived all over the world in all climates and with a myriad of Porsches, most built since 1976. Don't kid yourself on what that stuff can do ultimately to the parts on the car. From a maintenance perspective it's a potential nightmare,--have you ever dealt with a frozen (rusted) fastener? I'm not talking surface rust at all. It will greatly complicate the serviceability of the car over time. I have to credit Porsche for addressing much of this over the decades, but the system is not fool proof. The plastic underliners are quite good in the wheelwells but they also have the ability to hide salts. A good thorough cleaning is necessary periodically. One of my other cars which I drove daily in the Boston area required the complete replacement of the exhaust system after 6 years in New England weathers.
Given the option of a car outside the rust belt to one in the rust belt, do you really think you would want to go for the latter?
Given the option of a car outside the rust belt to one in the rust belt, do you really think you would want to go for the latter?
Personally I'm more concerned with what the road surfaces were like that the car traveled on.
09-30-2009, 09:22 PM
#22
Race Director
folks, these cars and most modern cars are plummeting in value by the day. forget the salt, forget the resale value, forget the scratch and the wear on the side bolster and JUST DRIVE THE BLOODY THING.
If you are so scared of spending some cash on replacing some rusty parts, or it costing more on labor, just take the drivetrain out, sell it, put it in a mutual fund, and just stare at the body in your garage.
sheesh!!!
If you are so scared of spending some cash on replacing some rusty parts, or it costing more on labor, just take the drivetrain out, sell it, put it in a mutual fund, and just stare at the body in your garage.
sheesh!!!
10-01-2009, 12:07 AM
#24
Poseur
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Let's recall the OP,--should he be concerned about a Chicago car,--not, should he drive his Porsche in the winter. (I drive my Porsches in the winter and in the snow). The question has to do with ACQUIRING one, not driving one in that stuff. If you have a choice, go with the one least affected by that salt stuff, or whatever they call it today.
10-01-2009, 08:06 AM
#26
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P.S. Please avoid morality lessons in your comments. I sold my sole long time ago.
10-05-2009, 02:07 PM
#28
Two comments:
I drive my 2007 C4S Cab year round between Baltimore and NYC. I wash it every week or two. And I wax it two or three times per year. It is a great foul weather car in the handling department and I see no "discolored bolts" issues after two winters. As far as buying a used Porsche I believe low mileage is the first filter to a good car. Porsches are made in snowy Germany and are a common sight all year round there.
Secondly, reading this forum scares the hell out of you. Read three pages and you find dozens of problems, real or imagined, that lead you to believe these are incredibly fragile machines. I participated on a Porsche sponsored weekend at Road Atlanta where the factory rep led us on a police escorted trek between downtown and the track early Saturday morning. I don't think we averaged less than 100 MPH on the expressways on that trip. When I asked her why we were pushing these new cars her reponse was "Silly boy - they were designed to drive fast and hard."
Ok, for all you nervous Nellies - "Never buy a demonstrator!!"
I drive my 2007 C4S Cab year round between Baltimore and NYC. I wash it every week or two. And I wax it two or three times per year. It is a great foul weather car in the handling department and I see no "discolored bolts" issues after two winters. As far as buying a used Porsche I believe low mileage is the first filter to a good car. Porsches are made in snowy Germany and are a common sight all year round there.
Secondly, reading this forum scares the hell out of you. Read three pages and you find dozens of problems, real or imagined, that lead you to believe these are incredibly fragile machines. I participated on a Porsche sponsored weekend at Road Atlanta where the factory rep led us on a police escorted trek between downtown and the track early Saturday morning. I don't think we averaged less than 100 MPH on the expressways on that trip. When I asked her why we were pushing these new cars her reponse was "Silly boy - they were designed to drive fast and hard."
Ok, for all you nervous Nellies - "Never buy a demonstrator!!"
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10-05-2009, 02:26 PM
#29
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
Rennlist Member
We have a CaymanS and 997S that are both driven all year round. Here's our winter regime:
Mid Fall (before first freeze):
Full wash to remove all wax/protectants.
Apply polymer protectant (we use Klasse, there are others) to winter wheels all surfaces.
Apply Klasse AOI and sealant to paint.
Clean interior leather and vinyl surfaces, take care of any carpet issues.
Clean clear bra areas with Plexus
Mount winter wheels/tires
clean and polymer-protect summer wheels, store (ideally where temps stay above 32f)
Drive car.
Wash as needed (usually weekly for us) with ONR and two buckets (warm with ONR and warm rinse water), per their instructions and videos on YouTube. Note that this does not do anything for the underside or engine. We don't detail our engines as these are high mileage daily drivers.
On occasion esp after a lot of salt (but when it is largely gone from the roads) go to touchless wash. A guy who details cars well here suggests going to the coin do-it-yourself wash and using the high-pressure spray with NO soap. I'd rather use ONR with warm water in a closed garage myself.
By 6 months the car needs to be cleaned up again, maybe clayed and re sealed. And that's about the time we switch to summer wheels/tires again. Always store the ones coming off clean and freshly protected.
Drive it a lot in the first heavy spring rains - that really helps flush out the nooks and crannies.
Enjoy the car. It can take it.
Mid Fall (before first freeze):
Full wash to remove all wax/protectants.
Apply polymer protectant (we use Klasse, there are others) to winter wheels all surfaces.
Apply Klasse AOI and sealant to paint.
Clean interior leather and vinyl surfaces, take care of any carpet issues.
Clean clear bra areas with Plexus
Mount winter wheels/tires
clean and polymer-protect summer wheels, store (ideally where temps stay above 32f)
Drive car.
Wash as needed (usually weekly for us) with ONR and two buckets (warm with ONR and warm rinse water), per their instructions and videos on YouTube. Note that this does not do anything for the underside or engine. We don't detail our engines as these are high mileage daily drivers.
On occasion esp after a lot of salt (but when it is largely gone from the roads) go to touchless wash. A guy who details cars well here suggests going to the coin do-it-yourself wash and using the high-pressure spray with NO soap. I'd rather use ONR with warm water in a closed garage myself.
By 6 months the car needs to be cleaned up again, maybe clayed and re sealed. And that's about the time we switch to summer wheels/tires again. Always store the ones coming off clean and freshly protected.
Drive it a lot in the first heavy spring rains - that really helps flush out the nooks and crannies.
Enjoy the car. It can take it.
10-05-2009, 04:34 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
If I really have to, I will take it through a touchless and I know it uses recycled water, but sometimes that is better than not being able to wash it.