Minok

The issue for me is how often does one need to apply the rejex. If I've got to do a full on application every few months, then I'm just as good doing a full wash and wax every few months and spot cleaning and waxing as needed (to address bug/tar remover usage on tree sap, etc).

If, on the otherhand, rejex provides the ability to do a once a year thurough cleaning to the paint, clay baring, touchup any dings and then two coats of rejex, and the rest of the year just wash off the sap, dirt, etc with light car wash soap and water and then dry, THEN I may be in the market to switch to something like rejex.

Is that how it can be used?

Minok

The issue for me is how often does one need to apply the rejex. If I've got to do a full on application every few months, then I'm just as good doing a full wash and wax every few months and spot cleaning and waxing as needed (to address bug/tar remover usage on tree sap, etc).

If, on the otherhand, rejex provides the ability to do a once a year thurough cleaning to the paint, clay baring, touchup any dings and then two coats of rejex, and the rest of the year just wash off the sap, dirt, etc with light car wash soap and water and then dry, THEN I may be in the market to switch to something like rejex.

Is that how it can be used?

Eric - Plug Guy

Minok - the question for you is, do you want to clear film the whole car?

Probably not.

If you are going to detail the car no matter what (we all do!), and you want the ease of use/application, then of course the Rejex is a simple solution. Other than full clear film, NOTHING will completely eliminate the need to detail or clean our cars. That's life. But like any protective product for your paint, if you want the car's paint to hold up well, you will need to care for it. Not that you have to wax it every week, but quarterly is a good measure to start with.

The nice benefit on the Rejex is how slippery it keeps the paint, so washing for me is a breeze, very quick and easy.

p-cardriver

Try Plexus to clean and shine up the clear bra. There is little/no point in putting Rejex/Klasse/Zymol/Zaino etc on clear bra as far as I can tell.

WaltB

"it was developed for aircraft use on jet fan blades to protect them from debris and jet fuels."

Ridiculous!

Actually to assist in cleaning as well as protecting finishes affected by aircraft exhaust. (Initially Helo's)

lig

Thanks for the insight, fellas. I'm sure that falcon was eating a special acid rich diet just for bombing my car!

I didn't realize that Rejex required a 2nd coat. It only had the one coat after the polishing and I don't recall them washing the car after the polishing either...

Fahrer

I have a new 2008 ( Arctic Silver) with only about 1000 miles on it. I am not looking to get "the very best show car shine" on the car but I would like to use something easy that will protect the finish as it is.
Maybe some dumb questions here but...

1) Is it OK to simply wash the car and use the Rejex without any other steps in between ( clay bar etc.)?

2) Are there any downsides to using Rejex ( e.g. limits your options in the future)?

The idea that it cures ( crosslinks?) on the paint concerns me a bit but perhaps I am just looking for things to worry about.

steph280

Fahrer you and I have the same color 2008 and I also have just over 1000 miles on mine. I got some Rejex coming and will report back on how it works on silver color.

Fahrer

Thanks for the heads up!

GraSox

My car has been waxed in the past......so would the process be:
1. wash with dawn
2. rejex
3. let dry then rejex again?

If the car has any swirls (maring) will the washing with dawn take that away?
Do I need to clay bar it?

Thanks!

Eric - Plug Guy

YES to steps 1 and 2. Repeat the Rejex on your next wash a couple weeks later for good measure (no more dawn).

And there is NO long term negative to Rejex. Or for that matter, any other wax product you like. If you want to make a change a year or two later, just wash with dawn and start over.

If your paint has swirls or damage, and needs some work, take care of that first (swirl remover, clay, etc). THEN wash w/dawn, dry, Rejex.



No need to do much else on relatively new condition paint.


Wash it with your favorite auto shampoo.
Dry.
Apply Rejex.
Buff out.
Admire.



A second app of Rejex in a few weeks is good, just for getting it layered. But it is not required. Just wash it a couple weeks later and repeat the Rejex, then quarterly. If you leave the car outside, you may want to apply more often as needed.

Carrera GT

Definitely worth a thorough, careful going over with the clay -- just remember you're using something to "float" the clay, so that needs to be removed afterwards.

Swirls and anything "in the clearcoat" will need specific attention to make it less evident, then the given sealant (such as Rejex) should fill in a smooth over the problem. This is one reason why a second application can help to address these blemishes, but once you have the desired quality of finish, there's no apparent call for frequent repeats of the application process.

Deanski

Wait one minute.. yes you can clay the finish after a good wash. Use a clay "kit" if you've not used clay in the past.

BUT

As for swirls, Rejex and just about any LSP (Last Step Process) will not fill or fill very mildly at best.

The only thing that really fills is a glaze.

Always start with a mild paint cleanser and work up from there as this is the only way to remove any swirls/marring. Porsche paint is very soft and easy to correct. Use the best MF towels for this as well as cheap ones will put the marring and swirls right back.

It all depends on the condition of the finish.

Regards,
Deanski