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997.2 Oil Consumption

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Old 04-21-2009, 08:03 PM
  #46  
Ray S
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
Don't forget that the approved list is pay to play and it can get pretty expensive to keep your name on the list. Many manufacturers don't think it is worth it.
LOL...

You've got it all figured out.... As I stated earlier, Mobil 1 15W-50 is available and as you claim Mobil is paying big money to be on the "list". If it's all about money I wonder why all the Mobil oils aren't listed?

Funny how every single oil save one are 0W-40 or 5W-40. Must be a Porsche marketing screw up.
Old 04-21-2009, 08:15 PM
  #47  
1999Porsche911
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Originally Posted by Ray S
LOL...

You've got it all figured out.... As I stated earlier, Mobil 1 15W-50 is available and as you claim Mobil is paying big money to be on the "list". If it's all about money I wonder why all the Mobil oils aren't listed?

Funny how every single oil save one are 0W-40 or 5W-40. Must be a Porsche marketing screw up.



Don't you ever do any research yourself or is this forum your complete library of knowledge? The pay to play was announced by Porsche several years ago. Big cost to those on the list every 3 years. I also did not say that Porsche is paid by the oil companies to be on the list.

I have to assume that English is not your first language as you never seem to comprehend what is written. If that is the case, I understand your trouble. If not, try reading more slowly.

I'll let you argue with yourself.
Old 04-21-2009, 08:44 PM
  #48  
Ray S
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LOL....no answer as usual.

Let's hear about all your research for choosing an oil outside the Porsche list. Surely you have something beyond, "it's worked well in my car"....

Don't worry, I expect nothing more than the usual deflection.
Old 04-21-2009, 08:59 PM
  #49  
boolala
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
It might be easier for you to look at the facts individually:

All oils of the same class must meet SAE standards

These oils must fall within a limited range for each viscosity

The first number in oil’s viscosity rating is for cold start only. This rating is irrelevant when the oil is at 212F

The second number is the viscosity of the oil at 212F

ALL oils rated ?W50 have the same viscosity at 212F


If you accept the above as facts, you cannot successfully argue that straight 50 weight oil or a 20W50 oil will not function properly in the variocam system since Porsche says 5W50 oil works fine.

If you don’t believe these as facts, then you are left to follow whatever guidance you choose.

Given your assumptions please explain to me what is supposed to happen until the oil is at operating temperatures (which takes about 15 - 20 minutes on average in my experience)? Is it OK, during this time, for the variocam system to function without the proper weight oil?
Old 04-21-2009, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by boolala
Given your assumptions please explain to me what is supposed to happen until the oil is at operating temperatures (which takes about 15 - 20 minutes on average in my experience)? Is it OK, during this time, for the variocam system to function without the proper weight oil?


They are not assumptions but facts easily verified by reading SAE regs. At 14F and above a synthetic 15W50 oil's viscosity is the same as a 5W50 oil. Since Porsche claims that the variocam works fine with 5W50 oil, using 15W50 in temperatures of 14F and above works just as well.
Old 04-21-2009, 11:16 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Minok
If burning a quart of oil every 700mi is the way these engines run and thats not an indication of a bigger problem, then I'm fine with putting the oil in. It is a marginal cost of driving a very fine machine. I'll add 1 qt every 1k miles for the next 300k miles, no problem.

If burning large amounts of oil leads to reliability problems down the road, THEN I have a problem. If the oil usage of 1qt per 1k miles means my engine's life expectancy is 1/2 that of one that burns 1 qt every 3k miles, THEN I have a problem.

All I want to know is: Do I have a problem. I don't care about how much oil I feed the thing.

In my case, a Oct 08 build Targa 4, it has gone through 1+ qts in 2000 miles. Put in a quart somewhere around 1100 and then the dealer put in some when I had it in the shop and asked about the right way to measure the oil level. They didn't say how much they put in.. could have been another quart for all I know.
well for one, oil lowers the octane of the fuel when it enters the combustion chamber.

two, to me that much oil burning is just an example of sloppy execution. There is no reason why a 3.6L 350bhp engine should burn really any oil. I'll make an exception for the fact that its a flat 6 and that some oil pools, but even then, it shouldn't be anywhere near what porsche quotes as their limits.

Hell, if you have to add 16 quarts per oil change, you don't have to do an oil change since the oil gets a nice additive pack boost ever 400 miles or so.
Old 04-23-2009, 12:59 AM
  #52  
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Just make sure you really drive the snot out of the car to seat the rings properly.

Adrian's patented "engine break in procedure" is available at low prices...
Old 04-23-2009, 01:11 AM
  #53  
brendo
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adrian - i translated your sig. these are the results from various online translators. care to comment on the true meeting?

The aviation leftovers on the side discs have good driver
Good drivers have the fly remains on the page
Good drivers have the fly remainders on the side windows
Good drivers have the fly remains on the side windows
good driver credit the Fliegenreste on the Seitenscheiben

and so on...
Old 04-23-2009, 01:16 AM
  #54  
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Good drivers have the fly remains on the side windows
Old 04-23-2009, 05:18 PM
  #55  
Minok
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Or in American "Good drivers end up with the bugs splattered on the side windows." I'm not sure what Walter means by that, as it implies that good drivers go down the road at great speed sideways... I suppose, it refers to cornering and drifting through the corners to get some bug-spray on the sides too.

For the break-in, the manual indicates for the first 2000 miles to avoid short trips or lugging the engine as well as making sure the engine is warmed up before pushing it. Unfortunately I cannot follow all of those rules because I'd not be able to drive the car if I cannot use it on the 15 mile commute that makes up the majority of my driving. I do warm it up before getting harder on it. For the lugging.. the stupid 'drive fuel efficient arrow' doesn't help ... its always encouraging me to shift into 6th at 35-40mph. I'll make it a point to ignore that damned thing more regularly.
Old 04-23-2009, 06:24 PM
  #56  
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15 miles isn't really a "short trip"
A short trip is one where the engine doesn't get sufficient temp in it.

When you drive the car a bit further, when the engine is hot, don't be afraid to use the full extent of the rev range at wide open throttle.
Old 04-24-2009, 05:48 PM
  #57  
Minok
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Oh, I do, for a bit.. then get nervous about aircraft taking pictures and back off again. ;-)
Old 04-24-2009, 07:02 PM
  #58  
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Fwiw, I'll throw my data into the mix. 997.2 C2S, have been keeping the rpms below 5k during breakin. At 1475 miles, check engine oil warning came on...hadn't checked it since 500 miles when it was full. Needed 2.25 quarts to get it back to full. I guess I better check it more frequently.
Old 04-24-2009, 07:26 PM
  #59  
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Thanks for chiming in Dave. Seems like these 09 997's are oil burners. I am off to the track again next weekend and will fill my oil up and see what happens with 2 track days.

I am quite DISAPOINTED with the new engine in the 997S with all this oil burning and sooty tail pipes.
Old 04-24-2009, 08:01 PM
  #60  
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One more data point - I used about a quart in the first 1500 miles, and I used a pint in the next 1500. I have an 09 C2S with PDK.


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