Oil Change/$300=Rip off!
02-24-2009, 07:43 PM
#61
02-24-2009, 07:53 PM
#62
Rennlist Member
You must be very proud of your 10 year old. Myself, I stand by my statement. I doubt I'd have noticed a thing. Wherever the seepage was, it sure wasn't dripping and I've got no telltale signs of a leak on my garage floor. Perhaps it was easier to spot with the car up on a proper lift in a well-lit service area. I have my doubts with the car on jack stands in my dimly-lit garage and me awkwardly crawling around on my back with barely half a clue about what I'm looking at.
I figure it was money well spent.
I figure it was money well spent.
02-24-2009, 09:28 PM
#63
Three Wheelin'
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Really? You changed your oil daily. With practice, you could probably get it to hourly. It is possible. 
No not daily, but often enough if running it hard or if I ran it at Englishtown. Besides, back then, I did not use Mobil-1 and oil was cheap. Besides, the engine alone is worth big money if you have to rebuild it.
It depends on what is really needed. Sure I can change my oil way more frequently than is needed, but that is just a waste of time and money. Now to some it may not be a big deal to light up and burn a $100 note every couple of months or so, but I don't see the point in the time and cost of doing an unnecessary oil change.
No not daily, but often enough if running it hard or if I ran it at Englishtown. Besides, back then, I did not use Mobil-1 and oil was cheap. Besides, the engine alone is worth big money if you have to rebuild it.
It depends on what is really needed. Sure I can change my oil way more frequently than is needed, but that is just a waste of time and money. Now to some it may not be a big deal to light up and burn a $100 note every couple of months or so, but I don't see the point in the time and cost of doing an unnecessary oil change.
I'm not saying to change it every 1000 miles, that's a bit much unless you are a club racer, but to change it at 3K to 5K miles. Sure, it can go longer, but for some of us feel more secure in a fresh filter and oil after a set mileage has passed.
Sure, the cars engine has VarioCam and other items that require good oil that's clean, but most important, the right viscosity.
Me, I try to change it no more than 5K miles, but mostly 3K miles.
Deanski
02-25-2009, 01:32 AM
#64
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12-31-2018, 04:30 PM
#66
Intermediate
I laugh at all of those who think there time is so valuable that $300 is a bargain for an oil change. It takes no more skill nor cost to change the oil on a Toyota than a Porsche...yet some people here are willing to dish out the bucks on the Porsche. I do the easy services myself...and my time is also worth $$$. But when your sitting at home on a day that you are not working, nor recreating and only writing stupid things like I am doing now...what is my time worth? It is times like this that I rather save myself the $300!.
abe
abe
12-31-2018, 06:47 PM
#67
Has to be said ...
12-31-2018, 09:02 PM
#68
My 997.1 C2's oil and filter are silly easy to change. I would like to use the dealer but don't because of the cost, distance/inconvenience, and risk of leaving my car on their lot. Five quarts of 0W-40 Mobil 1 is $26 at Wal-Mart. I find the Porsche-branded filter to be hard to install and of low quality. Napa Gold has met all expectations, not sure why it costs $20. I change the oil, filter, drain plug, and washer every 3,000-4,000 miles. Given the plastic canister and aluminum pan/plug... I choose to use a torque wrench to install the filter and drain plug. The specs on both are higher than what "feels natural" to me. Transferring the dirty oil from the drain pans to the empty jugs is the only part of the process that I dislike doing. I consider it character building. The whole process takes me 2 hours or so from the time I move the SUV out onto the street until I re-park the SUV back in the garage--job done. The two "professional" changes I have had (one for PPI, one at the dealer) were both done long ago and both resulted in overfill conditions. I would be annoyed to pay $150-300 for an oil change only to have to go back to the dealer or climb under the car to adjust the oil level!
01-01-2019, 10:43 AM
#69
Instructor
All 3 stealerships near me said $300. When I explained how cheaply I could do it myself, they said they had to charge for lift time because "it takes an hour to drain properly" and they "aren't able to work on other cars during that time because a lift is taken up". I'm not paying them to watch my oil drain. go work on something else for an hour if that's how long it takes, don't charge me for your inaction.
the closest stealership also tried to charge me $5900 to change a clutch until I explained how cheaply I could get the parts on my own and almost exactly how to do it over the phone, that the only reason I brought it in was lack of space/tools at home. Ended up paying $2900(still too much in my opinion) but that beat 5900 and it had to be done. After that me and one of the mechs are on a first name basis and he will answer questions/give advice via text if I need it on a DIY project.
fuel evaporator valve was bad(tripping a code), the porsche part was $500. I bought an identical Audi one with the same electric plug for $36, no issues. DIY For the win
the closest stealership also tried to charge me $5900 to change a clutch until I explained how cheaply I could get the parts on my own and almost exactly how to do it over the phone, that the only reason I brought it in was lack of space/tools at home. Ended up paying $2900(still too much in my opinion) but that beat 5900 and it had to be done. After that me and one of the mechs are on a first name basis and he will answer questions/give advice via text if I need it on a DIY project.
fuel evaporator valve was bad(tripping a code), the porsche part was $500. I bought an identical Audi one with the same electric plug for $36, no issues. DIY For the win
