Front Brake Repair?
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: So Cal
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Front Brake Repair?
Heard some funny noises from the rear and brought my P-Car to have it ck at the dealer. Can't find any problem. Did a quick visual ck-up and Said the brake was about to be out of spec. Wanted $1200 to change the pads and rotors or $800 for the pad only. After 21000 miles in 14 months, is it time to change? Are they trying to make their repair goals? I find it a little to excessive for just a pad replacement. Am I being cheap? Should I do the brake pad changes my self?
Just griping after a bloodbath at the stock market. Could of make a killing by shorting WYNN. Hesitated a day too late.....
Just griping after a bloodbath at the stock market. Could of make a killing by shorting WYNN. Hesitated a day too late.....
#2
Poseur
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You're really ready for pads and maybe ROTORS after 21,000 miles? Wow. Pads (non-PCCB I assume) cost $250 retail. I think that's highway robbery at $800. Nuts. It's very easy to do.
#4
Racer
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Yip, that's what I thought. After a search for brake pads replacement, it look easy enough. My main concerns is Turning the rotor. Is it necessary? I can't think after 21k miles, the rotor needed to be replace. Rotor life cycle should be at least 50k miles. Most of my miles are spirited freeway miles.. Just can't see the reasons other than greed on the dealer part.
Thx guys for the input, Let see, need a heavy duty jack, a new set of craftmans Sockets, latex gloves, Box of bandaid, overalls, hmmm anything else before I go under to change the pad??? hehehehe
Thx guys for the input, Let see, need a heavy duty jack, a new set of craftmans Sockets, latex gloves, Box of bandaid, overalls, hmmm anything else before I go under to change the pad??? hehehehe
#5
Racer
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I replaced my front rotors after about 28,000 miles with about 25 DE days. The rotors were thick enough but they were cracking from the heat of dirving on the track. As stated to change the pads is no trouble at all.
#6
Race Car
If you do not track your car, there is no way you need new brakes...pads or rotors. For the many dealers, itis common practice to suggest that such a repair is needed, whether it is or not. Either look for yourself or wait for the sensors to wear out which will give you more than enough warning.
#7
Three Wheelin'
If you do not track your car, there is no way you need new brakes...pads or rotors. For the many dealers, itis common practice to suggest that such a repair is needed, whether it is or not. Either look for yourself or wait for the sensors to wear out which will give you more than enough warning.
-Inspect the brakes yourself or have MIDAS do it (get a second opinion), before replacing the brakes and rotors. I believe cross-drill rotors cannot be
turned, you will need to replace the rotor if worn.
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#8
No way to know without inspecting them. Measure the rotor thickness to see if they are at the minimum spec. I believe it's 34(f) and 28(r) mm, but any shop or dealer can look it up for you. I think the minimum translates to about .070" of wear. The pads are very easy to replace, with a couple of exceptions. If you still have the OE pads, they have the anti-rattle devices glued to the outside of each pad, which insert into each piston. Since they are thicker than the pad, you cannot just press the pistons in and remove them. They have to be pried loose with a putty knife or such. I found it easier to just remove the caliper, then they fall right out. I threw these things in the nearest garbage can and never used them again; pad changing is then a snap. You will also notice the wear indicator sensors attached to each pad. I cable-tied them back on the control arm and never used them again either. I think I broke half of them in the removal, but if you do, and if you want to use them, the sensor ends can be replaced cheaply I think.