LanceK

Looking for comments / experiences.

TIA

SilverSteel

I've been buying Griot's things for years. I'm probably one of their best customers. As you may or may not know, all of their items are relabled; products he or his team finds to be exceptional in quality, ingenuity or convenience. Some products he buys the licensed rights to carry for a specified time. I've found 90% of his merchandise to exceed my expectations. In additiion, he guarantees everything for life. Find that somewhere else!! As for his floor paint, I do not know what brand it really is, but it's probably a good it not the best. My neighbor in my last house used it and it looked really nice, but I moved a year later. Mine (Behr--pure crap) had come up in a few small areas, but his had no lift issues. Trust me, I did a far better job of surface prep than his lazy *** did. I'd be interested in LONGEVITY opinions.

I've heard great things about U-Coat-it. Again, I want LONGEVITY opinions.

LanceK

Thanks for the info.

I think the garage paint is one of the few products Griot's does NOT warranty.

gr8330

That might be your answer

Edgy01

Getting ready to do my 3-car garage with the GG stuff. He can't really warranty it because there are many ways someone could screw it up e.g., inadequate prep. work. Will report back here on the process, etc.

Dan

SilverSteel

Edgy is right. It's impossible to warranty that product as there's no way to be sure you did the prep work so the paint sticks. What are going to do, send him two empty cans and ask for your dough. He's beyond fair when it comes to warrantying out his products, but that's just too tricky. Personally, I've never seen a paint that sticks for any length of time. Sure it sticks for a few months, maybe a year, but much longer. I really wish there was something that could handle the tires. I'll be watching this thread for people with paint over a year old with something besides a featherweight posrche on it.

SilverSteel

Edgy, if I were you, I'd double the effort on the prep work to be sure you are realllllly clean prior to paint. Everyone is in a hurry to put the paint down and see the result. Take your time and scrub the hell out of the floor with degreaser and muriatic acid (at different times of course). Don't mix any chemicals as you may create a bomb or really dangerous fumes. Also, be sure and use a toxic chemical mask (not some cheapie either) to protect yourself and have a couple of fans running to blow the fumes out. The stuff is very dangerous to breathe. Sand out spots with a brick sanding block and fill in cracks. If in doubt, clean it again. Good luck and I look forward to your pics.

micgreeny

he's right, prep is everything. do a good job there and all should be good. ------------mike

John B

I used the GG product in two different garages, with two very different results. Prep and application were identical. In my 4-car basement garage it has held up perfectly, even with fuel and oil leaks (old Triumphs), sticky hot Porsche tires, and floor jack and jack stand use.

However, upstairs where we park our two daily drivers (MDX and M35), the floor lifted under the tires in a matter of weeks.

We did the acid etch and the whole nine yards the same both places. Both slabs were about 1 year old, and had never been used. The only theory I have is that out builder had put "tar-paper" down to "protect" the upstairs floor. I suspect some of the oils from the paper impregnated the floor, hindering adhesion. I had professionals come out, sand blast the floor clear, and recoat with their own product. It is flawless, non-skid, and has held up for a couple of years of year so far. They put it down THICK.

Good luck.
John B
Knoxville

jason952

I used the rustoleum epoxy stuff and have had no issues for the last 2 years, as stated, it's all in the prep...

SilverSteel

John B. Good information. I will remember the sand blasting technique since I have a compressor and sand gun I just bought (I knew I'd need it for something, sometime). I have an observation worthy of consideration: the thicker the paint is layed on, the thicker you better put the clear-coat. The clearcoat protects the paint from sticking to tires. It does make the floor slicker, but mix in some of the sand material to give it traction otherwise you will be taking serious headers on your ***. My last house I didn't use any sand material and just about everytime I'd take out the trash or walk by my recently washed car, I'd beef it. It didn't matter if I knew the water was there or not, you're going down. I never got hurt, but as I get older I'm less likely to bounce like I have in the past. Also, kids...if you have them, you better use the sand substrate to give it traction. GO HEAVY and THICK on the CLEAR COAT. It will still shine the glass, but the sand will give you a safe floor (you don't have to add a ton of it).

joeacc

I have 7 gallons of the grey colored Griot's garage floor paint, that I never got around to using if anyone is interested in buying for a discount. It is only about 7 months old and includes the hardners.

uncle buck

You have a PM.

mb996

I've used the GG paint with great results. As others have said, the key is in the prep, acid etch and take your time. I used the tan paint and it has been indestructible so far (~ 2 years). No lifting or other issues.

gr8330

I put down the U-Coat-it product and it has held up in the hot desert heat for over three years and still looks good. It also has a lifetime warranty