1080iAddict

Buzz911S... No problem. Let me know how it goes if you do the install.

Fred933C4S... Think of the modular cable as a crossover computer cable, i.e., pins 1234 on one end cross over to 4321 on the other end. Using the straight cable that came with the V1 as an example, this means that the red wire and green wires get reversed, i.e., if you actually took a cable with a modular plug on one end and a green and red power wire on the other end, and you plugged the modular end into the cigarette lighter adaptor thing and then stuck it in the cig lighter socket and applied power, the red would be positive on a meter and green would be negative. However, take that same modular cable and plug it into the V1, and what happend is the red would be negative and green would be positive. Get it?

I found this out the hard way by reversing polarity and powering up the V1. It obviously did not work but it did not short out because most modern electronics have a diode sensing circuit to protect against polarity reversal. So if you get it wrong and the V1 does not power up, reverse the wires.

1080iAddict

Guys - one more thing: DO THIS INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK. I OFFER NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED. All I am doing is documenting what I did to my own car.

gradyex

1080iaddict, good to know which colored wires to hook up to in the dome light (very clear instructions). I did my passport 8500 that way on my 2002 M3 but for the 997S I just tucked the hardwire (looks like a phone wire) GENTLY using a credit card up along where the windshield meets the header (starting from the right side of the rear view mirror where I installed detector) then down the left driver side pilliar and neatly folding wire under weather stripping along door to fuse box. At fuse box I just tapped off the optional rear wiper fuse for the hot (not optioned in my car) + grounded to body. Works well and shuts off without ignition key and all wires disapeared from view with no problems. I don't have the auto dimming mirrors but have the auto sensing wipers so your way may have been an option for me. At the time of my install there were no posts like yours to refer to so it was trial and error but it worked out.

JSMDMD

Thanks for the great DIY on the V1. I will take a look and see if the harness is the same with the regular mirror. If so, I will be in luck, and no more hanging wires!

jcnesq

Thanks for the very detailed DIY - will help me a lot.

A dumb question - I gather there is no need to use the supplied direct-wire power adapter in your install?? If I decide to use my remote display, I guess I'll have to use it, but otherwise it seems it does nothing.

1080iAddict

No problem guys. I will be modifying the pix cause I am going to clean up that sloppy install. Yes, you read that correctly. Even though the wires are out of sight and the install works, it was sloppy. I did that install at 1:00 am and finished at 3:00 am. I was so excited I found the correct wires I could not sleep and continued the install.

But it was sloppy. The problem is...there is no room above the cabin light to install that entire direct wire harness, i.e., the thing with the two modular jacks will not fit. So, I needed to cut it apart to get the in-line fuse holder. Also, there is a really small gap to run the wire out of the dome light enclosure to the windshield, i.e., the modular plug is too wide to fit through the gap. So, you need to cut a 'phone wire' with a modular plug on one end and bare wire on the other, and then feed the bare wire through the gap from the outside into the gap and into the dome light enclosure. The result is the need to solder a bunch of wires in the vehicle up in the enclosure. You'll see when you get into it.

So, I am going to do this the professional way and I will modify the pix. I know its sloppy and the '**** me' means it is getting done over - even though out of sight.

JCNESQ - no - there is no need to use that supplied wire. But you do need to use the in-line (or 'an' in line) fuse, so I cut the one off the supplied harness. Also, remember that the cable is a cross-over cable, i.e., look at the modular ends of the supplied cables next to each other and you'll see the colors reversed. Thus, its pins 1234 to pins 4321. Or, another way to look at it.... using the supplied flat cable, if you cut it, the power off the cig lighter end is red = positive and green = ground...but the power into the detector is red = ground and green = positive.

Feel free to ask more questions.

- Adam

Pantera

1080iAddict, thanks for figuring this out for me. You saved me a ton of "head scratching". I too wanted my V1 connected to a switched power lead. I have now connected my V1, as per your instructions, and can confirm that it works perfectly. I performed my installation slightly differently that you did. It's not better, just different. In order to gain access to the wires, I removed the entire dome light housing for easier access. Instructions are in the owners manual and it can be removed in two minutes. In fact, it's designed to be removed easily as the manual crank for the sunroof is underneath it. Rather than squeeze the V1 power cord between the dome light housing and the windshield, I mounted a small black plastic DC power jack (Mouser P/N 163-1060) in the dome light housing. When installed, it is barely noticeable and looks OEM when examined closely. I used male and female spade connectors in the + and - leads just in case I ever need to completely remove the dome light housing again. I then cut the V1 power cord to the appropriate length and soldered a DC power plug (Mouser P/N 1710-0721) on the end of the cord. This cord looks like OEM V1 and the beauty is that I can move the V1 to one of my other cars without leaving any cords dangling from the visor area. 1080iAddict, once again, thanks for doing the hard part of this installation and leaving the easy part up to me.

1080iAddict

Pantera,

Excellent!! Thanks for confirming the install works. I don't have a sunroof - I have a cabriolet - so I could not do the install the same way as you because I dont have that entire compartment to open up - - there is no emergency sunroof access as there is no sunroof.

I like the idea of the power jack.

epm1

Thanks for the great thread. Has anyone done this without the self dimming mirror? The only wiring I see is the pin connector for the light module which stopped me at that point. Suggestions? I am not really interested in running the wire from the fuse box and I have done this type of install in my 545 with no problems, it is really unobtrusive. TIA

1080iAddict

Forget it. Tried it. If you figure it out, you are a better man than me. That connector is a freakin computer cable.

jcnesq

Has anyone used the remote display in a 997? I'd like to, but I still haven't figured out where I would put it.

zumaron

Hers's a method for hardwiring in a 997 Coupe without self-dimming mirrors. Thanks to 1080i for photos and descriptions.

I used the same technique as 1080i to solder the modular cable to an inline fuse and ground. Then I used the 3M inline connectors to tap the hot and ground leads of the interior light. Use a test light to ensure you have correctly identified hot leads.

Interior Light Wiring:
Brown/White = Hot Lead
Brown/Brown = Ground

Radar unit will SHUT OFF when the alarm is armed.

jpcourt

Just One question....how much would you charge to do mine?

JohnnyBahamas

God this forum ROCKS!

Thank you for the effort gentlemen. I will do it this week.

Awesome thread!

Edgy01

To do this mod the best way you may want to consider the remote V1 down below the radio screen so you need to wire it a few different ways than just a single connector from the dimming mirror circuit to the master V1. Suggest you source the power from beneath the console (switched of course), place the remote just forward of the stick and then run a wire up to the V1 itself circuitously to the ideal mounting location left of the rearview mirror.

Dan