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Old 12-04-2022, 02:14 PM
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BG3
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Default Quickjack lift question:

Hi folks! It's been a while since I've had a chance to participate here. I finally decided to purchase the Quickjack 5000TL. Since FedEx can't seem to complete a route on time these days, I'm still waiting... In the meantime, I'm trying to plan for several service items I'm going to tackle once it arrives and I get it setup.

For those of you with Quickjacks and 997's, I'm trying to figure out the distance from the floor to the bottom of the tires when the car ('12 GTS) is on the lift?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Old 12-04-2022, 11:25 PM
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E39Nutz
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There are two stops I think. The first stop gives you approx. 6 inches ground to bottom of tire. I didn’t measure but here’s a pic I took when I received it in 2020. I bought the 7000lb version, 5000lb leaves very little margin for me to use it on heavier cars like a Panamera or a mid-sized SUV.




Last edited by E39Nutz; 12-04-2022 at 11:28 PM.
Old 12-05-2022, 10:07 AM
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Okay, so that pic is resting on the first stop, not the second, right?

Thank you for doing that @E39Nutz . I really wanted to get the 7000 but, I only have a hair under 5" of clearance and I couldn't get anyone to clarify if the lift would still fit with the blocks in place. I assume you're using the 3" blocks?

Just curious, what's the base under the Quickjacks?

Thanks again for your help! I'm hoping they arrive today. Did you use the thread sealant and let it cure or, use thread tape?

Last edited by BG3; 12-05-2022 at 10:08 AM.
Old 12-05-2022, 12:12 PM
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ADias
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Originally Posted by BG3
Hi folks! It's been a while since I've had a chance to participate here. I finally decided to purchase the Quickjack 5000TL. Since FedEx can't seem to complete a route on time these days, I'm still waiting... In the meantime, I'm trying to plan for several service items I'm going to tackle once it arrives and I get it setup.

For those of you with Quickjacks and 997's, I'm trying to figure out the distance from the floor to the bottom of the tires when the car ('12 GTS) is on the lift?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
IMHO it is safer to raise the QJ to the highest locking point. That puts the bottom the chassis about 20/21" above the garage floor. The suspension will droop a bit, but you will have the lowest point of the wheel a good 10" above the garage floor.

Note: As a first time QJ user I recommend you test and retest your setup before you raise the car. Follow QJ's instructions very carefully.
Old 12-05-2022, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ADias
IMHO it is safer to raise the QJ to the highest locking point. That puts the bottom the chassis about 20/21" above the garage floor. The suspension will droop a bit, but you will have the lowest point of the wheel a good 10" above the garage floor.

Note: As a first time QJ user I recommend you test and retest your setup before you raise the car. Follow QJ's instructions very carefully.
Thank you! I've watched and read a lot of info, as well as fail videos where folks didn't follow directions. (I can't believe people stack blocks on these or any lift for that matter...) I've paid attention to the orientation for front vs rear engined vehicles. There seems to be a lot of contention about the supplied thread sealant. So, I'm leaning towards the classic thread tape.

According to Quickjack, the 5000TL should have 24" of lift. For changing the plugs, I'm definitely going to want it all the way up. I'm also making a tire lift/dolly which will hopefully make R&R's as well as rotations, easier on my back. So, it looks and sounds like I have plenty of clearance for my idea. I think it's going to be close for the Taco and 4R but, I think it will still work.

I also found some good ideas for making them easier to move on the floor. Any other advice is certainly welcome!

Last edited by BG3; 12-05-2022 at 03:34 PM.
Old 12-05-2022, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BG3
Thank you! I've watched and read a lot of info, as well as fail videos where folks didn't follow directions. (I can't believe people stack blocks on these or any lift for that matter...) I've paid attention to the orientation for front vs rear engined vehicles. There seems to be a lot of contention about the supplied thread sealant. So, I'm leaning towards the classic thread tape.

According to Quickjack, the 5000TL should have 24" of lift. For changing the plugs, I'm definitely going to want it all the way up. I'm also making a tire lift/dolly which will hopefully make R&R's as well as rotations, easier on my back. So, it looks and sounds like I have plenty of clearance for my idea. I think it's going to be close for the Taco and 4R but, I think it will still work.

I also found some good ideas for making them easier to move on the floor. Any other advice is certainly welcome!
The small casters you need to move the QJ on the floor are these (with no brake):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are temporarily out of stock.

I tried a bunch and only these work well. Use thinner zip ties. I am away from my unit but later I can sent you pics of their positioning if you need them.
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Old 12-05-2022, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BG3
Okay, so that pic is resting on the first stop, not the second, right?

Thank you for doing that @E39Nutz . I really wanted to get the 7000 but, I only have a hair under 5" of clearance and I couldn't get anyone to clarify if the lift would still fit with the blocks in place. I assume you're using the 3" blocks?

Just curious, what's the base under the Quickjacks?

Thanks again for your help! I'm hoping they arrive today. Did you use the thread sealant and let it cure or, use thread tape?
Yes, that’s the first stop. Perfect for just swapping wheels. I believe the lowered height of 5000TL vs 7000TL is only ½ inch difference (3” vs 3.5”). You have sharp eyes, I was using the 3” block with one of these jackpads. The easyjack was sitting on the runways of a 4post lift.

I used teflon tape, it seals well and I have no leaking issue.


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Old 12-05-2022, 05:09 PM
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If the schrader valves are already installed I would remove them and retape them. Check the pressure in the air cylinders and they are there to lower the car especially for the first few uses.
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Old 12-05-2022, 06:19 PM
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Here's another photo with the 5000SLX model on the highest point. The stock Schrader valves do leak but since I only use it a couple times a year, I just use a hand pump to bring them back up to ~45 psi. The cylinders are small and don't require a lot of air (only requires a few manual pumps to get there). I also used Teflon tape for the connections, though lately I've noticed a small leak. I use small furniture dollies from Harbor Freight to move them around.



They're a great tool but I think it's obvious they're not as pro quality as the 2- and 4-post lifts that BendPak also makes.
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Old 12-05-2022, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ADias
The small casters you need to move the QJ on the floor are these (with no brake):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are temporarily out of stock.

I tried a bunch and only these work well. Use thinner zip ties. I am away from my unit but later I can sent you pics of their positioning if you need them.
Thanks! If you don't mind, I'd be interested to see how you used those. I was planning to use 5/8" roller bearings like these:
HF 5/8" Roller Bearings
Old 12-05-2022, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by E39Nutz
Yes, that’s the first stop. Perfect for just swapping wheels. I believe the lowered height of 5000TL vs 7000TL is only ½ inch difference (3” vs 3.5”). You have sharp eyes, I was using the 3” block with one of these jackpads. The easyjack was sitting on the runways of a 4post lift.

I used teflon tape, it seals well and I have no leaking issue.
Thank you for following up. Yeah, based on my best guess with the measurements I could find, that extra half inch was going to hit the rocker panels on the GTS. I don't have any full-size vehicles. So, the 5000 is fine for now. The Quickjacks are just a stop-gap until I can get my garage built. I plan to install a two-post once that's done. But, who knows when we'll actually get to start building...

Are those the jackpads they advertise for Teslas on Amazon? I wondered if they would work.
Old 12-05-2022, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by vexed
If the schrader valves are already installed I would remove them and retape them. Check the pressure in the air cylinders and they are there to lower the car especially for the first few uses.
Thanks! I've seen a few people comment that theirs leaked. With schraders, I usually just replace the valve in the stem if they leak. Often, they just need a little adjustment/tightening.
Old 12-05-2022, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ADias
The small casters you need to move the QJ on the floor are these (with no brake):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are temporarily out of stock.

I tried a bunch and only these work well. Use thinner zip ties. I am away from my unit but later I can sent you pics of their positioning if you need them.
I would like to see your QJ with the casters.

thanks!
Old 12-05-2022, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ADias
The small casters you need to move the QJ on the floor are these (with no brake):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are temporarily out of stock.

I tried a bunch and only these work well. Use thinner zip ties. I am away from my unit but later I can sent you pics of their positioning if you need them.
I would like to see your QJ with the casters.

thanks!

Old 12-05-2022, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BG3
I've paid attention to the orientation for front vs rear engined vehicles.
Interesting. So far I've set my QJ like demonstrated in their videos and instructions (car moving to the front).

But after reading this, I've done some Google searches and it seems like many are using it backwards with their 911s.

What is the advantage? Is it safer to use? More stable?




I mean, now that I look at my picture, it's kind of obvious why that would make sense! 🤯

Last edited by LucV; 12-05-2022 at 11:48 PM.


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