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Sounds like a good plan to get acquainted with your new ride. Your tail pipes don't scare me. Clean the tips up really good and enjoy your car. If you drive right and take it to redline often, then don't be afraid of burning a little oil.
Those don’t look bad at all, especially if you haven’t cleaned them in a while….the sooty tailpipes you should look out for would be 2-3 X darker after 1000 miles…and unless you have an x-pipe, one side (usually drivers)would be darker than the other.
Don’t stress, enjoy the ride , take the preventative measures you will be fine!
I have one in the frunk and add some oil when it’s down to the low bar. Been doing the same thing for years (60k miles later) and will keep on keeping on.
Sorry for the beginner questions, but once I get to a point where I need to add more oil, should I perform a full oil change if I want to switch to Driven DT-40? I assume it's not a good idea to add a different oil on top of whatever is in there now (I believe it's Mobil 1, but I'd have to check the dealer service record).
I have never changed the oil on a car myself, but I'm considering learning how and purchasing the necessary tools to do it myself. It sounds like I'd have to buy a scanning tool to reset the oil change reminder. If, however, I end up getting it changed at a garage this time, would I just buy the DT-40 myself and bring it with me?
Maybe some others can chime in about the procedures for changing over to DT40. I think I remember some treat it as a 2 step process by using a different interim oil, before switching over completely to DT40.
Changing the oil on a 997.1 has to be one of the easiest oil jobs I have done as long as you have the right tools and parts.
Parts needed.
1. Oil filter with rubber ring gasket.
2.Crush ring to replace on oil drain plug
3. at least 9 quarts of your preferred oil
4. Car jacks and or car ramps
5. Drip tray to catch splatters
6. Oil drain pan
7. 8mm hex/torx bit
8. Oil Filter removal socket wrench tool. 14 point. 74.4 mm
I attached a video, music is annoying, but things I like to do that were not covered in video. You will need to jack up the car properly so that it is level in the air in order for the oil to drain properly. I actually use car ramps to back the rear wheels on to like in video, but then I use to carjacks to lift up the front and level out the car so oil does not accumulate towards front of engine.
I have a large flat oil drip tray I slide under the car and then slide the oil drain pan under. Lots of paper towels. It can be a messy job.
1. It is enough to lift the car at one of the defined rear lifting points to place the sump, open the screw and then lower the car so that it is level and can drip out for hours. Same again for filter.
2. I would not recommend to use another oil filter than MANN.
3. I put the oil filter into the housing and fill up the housing with fresh oil until the filter is full and the fluid level is about 2 cm below the edge of the housing. This is pretty much 400 ml. Be patient, the filter needs a lot. The oil pressure builds up faster than with an empty housing, unfortunately only works with MK1.
4. The inspection of the old filter should be done in the cut out and spread out state, spreading the fins would be too little for me.
5. Filling of the sampling for the oil analysis is completely missing ;-)
6. Try to keep oil-level in the middle
1. It is enough to lift the car at one of the defined rear lifting points to place the sump, open the screw and then lower the car so that it is level and can drip out for hours. Same again for filter.
2. I would not recommend to use another oil filter than MANN.
3. I put the oil filter into the housing and fill up the housing with fresh oil until the filter is full and the fluid level is about 2 cm below the edge of the housing. This is pretty much 400 ml. Be patient, the filter needs a lot. The oil pressure builds up faster than with an empty housing, unfortunately only works with MK1.
4. The inspection of the old filter should be done in the cut out and spread out state, spreading the fins would be too little for me. 5. Filling of the sampling for the oil analysis is completely missing ;-)
6. Try to keep oil-level in the middle
Ah yes, good catch. Primer the Oil filter, I don't do it all the time, but a good suggestion. Also, order yourself some oil sampling kits from Blackstone. The kits are free, but of course, the analysis for when you send it in is where the cost is. Capture the oil sample a few seconds after the draining begins. This is a good way to keep track of the health of your engine and monitor any metals that might be floating around in your oil.
I can't find it now, but I'm pretty sure I read somewhere a recommendation that you *not* prime the oil filter when changing oil/filter on the M97. Seemed counterintuitive to me since I'd always done that with previous cars.
I know this. These people want to make you believe that initial filling of the filter housing with filter is bad. They justify this with the fact that this is unfiltered oil (sic!) which gets on the filtration side. Frankly, I have to laugh at this. Maybe some of you have heard a loud "plop" after a filter change. This is the safety valve in the filter housing opening because the differential pressure across the dry filter is too high. You wouldn't normally hear it, but it "bakes" on quickly in its seat. Then exactly the same thing happens.
07-22-2022, 09:34 AM
