kisik

I remember back when I had my 997 (3d radiator, low temp thermostat, 2Q deep sump, bumper cut out with screens...) I never seen anything above 245F on my SOLO DL. I used Motul 300. A few things I would look also:
1. How much time do you spend above 6-7k RPM? Upshift as you can. Go to 5th on straight to cool off. I know it is more work to go 3d later but it does help.
2. Cut some more opening in wheel liners to allow more air thorough radiators. Remove one FAN. LN has a kit for that.

DesmoSD

It's still possible to get high oil temps with the larger unit. Depending on how many track days you have lined up that it may make more sense to go with delete cap and external cooler instead.

cwheeler

Can you link to the ln fan delete? I see the Bilt cooling ducts, but not a fan delete. Unless this is the delete and it's part of that kit....

Cw

ZuffenZeus

KNSBrakes

To me it sounds like you're experiencing the same issues I have had with 987.2's and a PDK.

The first thing I did was add the TPC PDK cooler kit. This helped but in August here at VIR I still have overheating issues.

Then I added the 997 turbo oil cooler, and an external power steering cooling.

This setup has worked OK but we still overheat in August when pushed hard.

I wish I would have installed an electric power steering unit instead of doing the power steering cooler, that might be next on my list.

I have also been told to run a PDK gear fluid cooler, which requires adding a pump, that is also a consideration I am having.

Other GTB1P Cayman racers might have more advice, but that is my experience with these cars, while not the same cars, they do have the same issue due to the Gen 1 PDK gearboxes.

Best of luck!

--Aaron (also Rennpart)

rodH

larger capacity sump seems to be an easy DIY. Does that help, seems like it should. 2 extra quarts sounds like good thing

roadie13

I have a deep sump in my car and it certainly delays (but does not prevent) the oil getting hot. I got both the 3rd radiator and the deep sump installed at the same time, so I don't know which one is more effective. I would have guessed the third radiator though.

Anyhow, I have not experienced anything as dramatic as the OP, certainly not after just 10 minutes of a session.
Since I had the 3rd radiator installed my oil temps have not gone beyond 250 (on the stock instrument), and even that is reached only on a hot day after 30 minutes.

swoardrider

I just pulled the trigger on the RR-Racing deep sump pan. I’ll report back once I test it out on the track.

Mike Murphy

One thing that might help: there are times when the cars are sitting, idling in heat, waiting to go out there. Some ‘warm up’ the car too. I recommend waiting until the last minute to start your car, and if you’re in line waiting, go ahead and power her down, especially if it’s already warm and it’s hot outside. It might buy you a few extra laps or 5 mins on the track. So will a larger capacity sump (more oil takes longer to heat up than less oil).

kisik

Extra deep sump (I had Mantis unit) doesn't cure overheating issue but rather "buys" extra 5-7 minutes as it was pointed out by roadie13.
Our cars should stay within 250F.

Wayne Smith

My 2010 C4S PDK was a year early for the factory center radiator. On hot summer days in the thin air of the Sierra mountain passes I could see almost 275F on the oil. This was high RPM high load low gear fun.

Recently I added the center radiator. I've had a chance for a bit of fun but nothing quite like the previous Sierra trips. So my next sentence is approximate. It would seem the center radiator cuts about 25F from the upper end of the oil temperature.

I'm curious about adding a manual switch for the fans and possibly deleting one fan to improve flow, but the relatively low speed situation I found the oil heating in would probably be best served with both fans operational.

Frank 993 C4S

Cut out the bumper bottom more and just use the Motorsport thermostat and delete one fan. No need to add a switch.

Wayne Smith

Any codes thrown if I simply remove the fan? Do I add a resistor?

I looked at LN per a previous post but couldn't find a lot there.

Frank 993 C4S

If you have a 997.2, you should not need a deep sump but you can install the lower temperature thermostat easily. Most people with the 3rd radiator do not cut out enough of the bottom of the bumper to achieve proper venting and they cover the radiators with very restrictive screens. No codes for me after eliminating one fan but I wouldn't do that for a street car.

Wayne Smith

I don't think the 997.2 has a deep sump option. There isn't even room for a skid plate. Our local back roads contain transitions where the OEM pan can drag so I don't think I'd want to be lower.

The LTT helps guard the 997.1 cars against bore scoring during warm up. It may be that the 997.2s could be protected against cold seizure caused by their closed deck design but I haven't seen anything to support that. In the meantime, once the oil reaches high temperatures I would guess that flow rates would be the same with OEM or low temperature thermostats.

Attached are pictures of my front bumper. The cut outs start at the back edge of the center radiator and extend fully to each side of that radiator. The cowl forces air either through the center radiator or off to the side radiators. There's no obvious escape path to bypass a radiator. I don't think there's a reasonable way to increase that flow without going GT.

Anyway, my temps seem to be lower with the center radiator even if they are higher than others experience. Maybe my oil temp sender is out of calibration ...

This is a street car. I'll keep both fans intact per your suggestion ... Thank you for your input 😀