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Sounds like on an '08 and at 37k miles (former garage queen, now daily driver) it is of value to change them.
Anyone having a suggestion for a brand compromising between daily spirited crawling on LA potholes at 10mph and fun in the mountains on the weekends?
Also: Is that a job for my indie or are a jack lift and torc wrench all one needs?
Sounds like on an '08 and at 37k miles (former garage queen, now daily driver) it is of value to change them.
Anyone having a suggestion for a brand compromising between daily spirited crawling on LA potholes at 10mph and fun in the mountains on the weekends?
Also: Is that a job for my indie or are a jack lift and torc wrench all one needs?
I'm happy with my RSS mounts. It's an easy job with a jack and torque wrench. Just have to make sure the square on the bottom of the motor mount indexes properly into the square on the engine carrier so you don't deform it. Don't support the engine from under the oil pan - use the edge of the carrier bracket rearward of the sump plate.
Put the jack where these Jackstands are positioned.
At nearly thirteen years since the in-service date and nearly 57k miles later I will be replacing the factory units with the OE manufacture for Porsche. FCP recently had them on sale so I snagged a pair. Plus, they are covered with FCP’s lifetime warranty so I will never have to purchase them again. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...nt-vne-4009614
I just changed my original engine mounts on my 2010 C4S (52k) a week ago with OE replacement. Like those who have already commented, it has firmed up shifting and handling even though neither mount was 'broken' but instead had considerable play in them (stretch) as compared to the new replacements. Definitely gets the car even closer to 'like new' feeling.
I just changed my original engine mounts on my 2010 C4S (52k) a week ago with OE replacement. Like those who have already commented, it has firmed up shifting and handling even though neither mount was 'broken' but instead had considerable play in them (stretch) as compared to the new replacements. Definitely gets the car even closer to 'like new' feeling.
I'm happy with my RSS mounts. It's an easy job with a jack and torque wrench. Just have to make sure the square on the bottom of the motor mount indexes properly into the square on the engine carrier so you don't deform it. Don't support the engine from under the oil pan - use the edge of the carrier bracket rearward of the sump plate.
Put the jack where these Jackstands are positioned.
Sorry for the thread jumping but it's very interesting what you say.
In all the videos I've watched, including FCP / Pelican parts, they put a board under the oil pan and raise it a little with a jack to loosen the lower screw (T55).
Sorry for the thread jumping but it's very interesting what you say.
In all the videos I've watched, including FCP / Pelican parts, they put a board under the oil pan and raise it a little with a jack to loosen the lower screw (T55).
Jacking on the sump plate, even with a board is a bad idea, but people do dumb stuff all the time. The pan is not designed to experience a load from the underside and can cause it to shift it a little since the fastener torque spec is very low. That shift will break the seal that the sealant has between the pan and engine and you'll end up with an oil leak. Without the board you run the risk of cracking the pan - which people have also done (sold my old sump plate to someone who did exactly that).
Also, the lower nut on the motor mounts is a 19mm socket - not sure what you're referencing with the T55. The top side nuts take a 13mm socket.
Thanks for all the detailed answer. It makes a lot of sense! I would appreciate it if you could please take a photo of exactly the area that you recommend lifting the engine a bit during the replacement (I couldn't quite understand in the picture). I will thank you very much. I plan to DIY soon. Regarding the lower screw: in 997.2 it is T55, but in 997.1 it is different.
Depending on your exhaust setup and jack saddle type, from either of the blue circled areas which is the engine carrier.
My jack has a round saddle with a few raised flat areas around the perimeter. I rotate the saddle so one of those raised tangs fits in the slot made by the two circled areas and that way there's no way for the jack to slide out. For motor mounts, you're really just lifting a little to take the load off the mounts so they can be exchanged, but this location and technique is also great for working on top of the motor. Put the car on ramps or jackatands, then by supporting the engine carrier and completely removing the lower motor mount nuts, you can lower the jack to allow the engine to come down probably 6". Makes swapping out a coolant reservoir or working on top of the engine much easier.
When done, jack it back up and put the lower motor mount nuts back on and torque to spec.
Very thankful for everyone's insights on this topic. As some may have seen in other threads, I recently picked up a 2009 C2S with original mounts (at least I don't see a mention of them having been changed in the detailed service records). I noticed some of the symptoms others have mentioned (some odd vibrations at idle, even though idle itself is stable, 1st or 2nd gear somewhat a bit jerky, this kind of stuff). So my plan is to have them replaced with OE mounts.
One question: since my car has 1 year left of Porsche Approved coverage, does anyone know if this is usually covered under it or it's just considered consumable items? (Porsche Barcelona are on vacation, so worst case they'll tell me about it in a couple of weeks).
Depending on your exhaust setup and jack saddle type, from either of the blue circled areas which is the engine carrier.
My jack has a round saddle with a few raised flat areas around the perimeter. I rotate the saddle so one of those raised tangs fits in the slot made by the two circled areas and that way there's no way for the jack to slide out. For motor mounts, you're really just lifting a little to take the load off the mounts so they can be exchanged, but this location and technique is also great for working on top of the motor. Put the car on ramps or jackatands, then by supporting the engine carrier and completely removing the lower motor mount nuts, you can lower the jack to allow the engine to come down probably 6". Makes swapping out a coolant reservoir or working on top of the engine much easier.
When done, jack it back up and put the lower motor mount nuts back on and torque to spec.
Very thankful for everyone's insights on this topic. As some may have seen in other threads, I recently picked up a 2009 C2S with original mounts (at least I don't see a mention of them having been changed in the detailed service records). I noticed some of the symptoms others have mentioned (some odd vibrations at idle, even though idle itself is stable, 1st or 2nd gear somewhat a bit jerky, this kind of stuff). So my plan is to have them replaced with OE mounts.
One question: since my car has 1 year left of Porsche Approved coverage, does anyone know if this is usually covered under it or it's just considered consumable items? (Porsche Barcelona are on vacation, so worst case they'll tell me about it in a couple of weeks).
Hello fellow new X51 owner, just like you, I (2010 C2S X51 w/original mounts) am experiencing some slight vibrations at idle. Almost imperceptible. 1st < > 2nd gear can be rough in sport mode, but I understand this is normal(?). Shifts are much smoother in non-sport mode (for me). Incidentally, I did a clutch fluid drain and fill service about 300 miles ago on the PDK and haven’t noticed a difference in shifting. The maintenance schedule says every 60k miles or 6 years, so it was overdue anyway.
I’m thinking, as you probably are, that new engine mounts will fix the small vibration issue. Keep us posted.
How has your experience with the X51 compared to the TT been, by the way?
Hello fellow new X51 owner, just like you, I (2010 C2S X51 w/original mounts) am experiencing some slight vibrations at idle. Almost imperceptible. 1st < > 2nd gear can be rough in sport mode, but I understand this is normal(?). Shifts are much smoother in non-sport mode (for me). Incidentally, I did a clutch fluid drain and fill service about 300 miles ago on the PDK and haven’t noticed a difference in shifting. The maintenance schedule says every 60k miles or 6 years, so it was overdue anyway.
I’m thinking, as you probably are, that new engine mounts will fix the small vibration issue. Keep us posted.
How has your experience with the X51 compared to the TT been, by the way?
Hey, congrats on the car .
Unfortunately I haven't been able to experience the car as much as I would have liked to so far: drove it back from Germany on its german plates, and since then I've been waiting for the Spanish administration to deliver the local registration and plates, so it's sitting in the garage with the Ctek plugged in...
I had to cancel my appointment with Porsche Barcelona because the car currently has no plates on it at all. I will report once I've been able to get the mounts changed. The gearbox was changed on that car in 2020, and hasn't done a ton of miles since, so I think it's all good on that front.
From the little driving I've been able to do with the car, and comparing with the TT: it's quite a different experience, but I think I prefer it most of the time. The car feels noticeably lighter, especially at the front, it being a RWD. I haven't looked up the exact figures, but that's how it feels driving it at least. The TT felt ultra powerful, super planted all the time, and a little bit daunting. This one can be driven a lot harder without making you fear for your life. The one thing I have missed now and then is the absolute shove the TT is able to provide when flooring it.
Overall: I like that I can drive this one at 80% of its potential (because let's face it, I'm only a weekend driver, not a race track expert), rather than the maybe 50% I would from the TT. This one is also better optioned, so it's also more pleasant when traveling (ventilated seats in Spanish summer weather = heaven). I also very much appreciate that it doesn't get every RS3 or Golf R owner trying to race me like the other one did. It attracts less attention, and I'm all the better for it, having bought these cars for my personal enjoyment.
01-26-2022, 11:57 PM
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