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Small amount of coolant residue on black coolant valve

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Old 09-06-2021, 04:32 PM
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MrMoose
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You don't need a whole new tank, you can just swap out the bleeder. This should be the right part (from Pelican Parts):


Old 09-06-2021, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by nerdnic
This is interesting. When cold mine is down and flush, but when hot it's pushed up. It seems to be responding to the pressure changes.

I'm gonna order a new tank this week and swap it out.
Hmmm? I will take mine for a drive. My engine was stone cold when i snapped the pic.
Old 09-06-2021, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nerdnic
This is interesting. When cold mine is down and flush, but when hot it's pushed up. It seems to be responding to the pressure changes.

I'm gonna order a new tank this week and swap it out.
That's how they work and why they're self bleeding. The clip doesn't need to be manually positioned vertically in order to burp the system - it will self do that if the valve works correctly. They'll pop up a bit after a drive and if the pressure gets high enough will allow the excess air pressure to blow off. This usually happens if air is trapped in the system. They should really be refilled under vacuum using an AirLift.
Old 09-06-2021, 06:52 PM
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nerdnic
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Originally Posted by CAVU
Hmmm? I will take mine for a drive. My engine was stone cold when i snapped the pic.
Mine looks like yours before I drive (cold). Then after a drive it looks like my original photo (hot).
Old 09-06-2021, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Petza914
That's how they work and why they're self bleeding. The clip doesn't need to be manually positioned vertically in order to burp the system - it will self do that if the valve works correctly. They'll pop up a bit after a drive and if the pressure gets high enough will allow the excess air pressure to blow off. This usually happens if air is trapped in the system. They should really be refilled under vacuum using an AirLift.
Okay, that what seems like is happening. But an early comment mentioned that the bleeder shouldn't do this, though, and that pressure release is the blue caps job.

It can't be both, can it?
Old 09-06-2021, 08:02 PM
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MrMoose
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The blue cap (shown below) is what opens at max pressure of the system. Something like 20 PSI.

This link has a take apart of the bleeder valve and an explanation of what it's supposed to do. It doesn't bleed to atmosphere, looking at the parts diagram the hose it opens connects to a coolant manifold assembly lower in the engine. There should not be any way for fluid to get to the top plunger area. Since you've got a leak there, it would appear your bleeder valve is bad and you should replace just that part.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...lve-works.html


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Old 09-06-2021, 10:15 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MrMoose
The blue cap (shown below) is what opens at max pressure of the system. Something like 20 PSI.

This link has a take apart of the bleeder valve and an explanation of what it's supposed to do. It doesn't bleed to atmosphere, looking at the parts diagram the hose it opens connects to a coolant manifold assembly lower in the engine. There should not be any way for fluid to get to the top plunger area. Since you've got a leak there, it would appear your bleeder valve is bad and you should replace just that part.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...lve-works.html

This is excellent, thank you. I wonder if I'm missing the large o-ring/seal like another user in that thread. It seems like that could result in the behavior I'm having. If so, it means I'm only getting 8psi - which makes me curious what could be the overall impact of low psi?

Based on the age of my tank and the issue I'm having here, I'm going to just replace the whole thing.
Old 09-06-2021, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nerdnic
This is interesting. When cold mine is down and flush, but when hot it's pushed up. It seems to be responding to the pressure changes.

I'm gonna order a new tank this week and swap it out.
Went for a 40' drive, 80F evening. Measured the plunger after the drive, 9/32. If I had been smart I would have measured it before. Will measure it in the morning. Visually, I do not see any change.

As an aside regarding coolant level, per the owner's manual ( I am with Petza914 about targeting the MAX mark):

"When the engine is cold and the car is level the fluid level must lie between the “MIN” and “MAX” markings."

You might have too much heat building up yielding too much pressure in the system. You might want to hit an easy check and make sure that the radiator cooling fans on both sides are operating before ordering stuff. Just a thought.


Last edited by CAVU; 09-06-2021 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 09-06-2021, 10:40 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by nerdnic
This is excellent, thank you. I wonder if I'm missing the large o-ring/seal like another user in that thread. It seems like that could result in the behavior I'm having. If so, it means I'm only getting 8psi - which makes me curious what could be the overall impact of low psi?

Based on the age of my tank and the issue I'm having here, I'm going to just replace the whole thing.

Lower psi means lower boiling point and maybe why the coolant is leaving. The cooling system should handle 16-20 psi.
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Old 09-07-2021, 08:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by CAVU
Went for a 40' drive, 80F evening. Measured the plunger after the drive, 9/32. If I had been smart I would have measured it before. Will measure it in the morning. Visually, I do not see any change..
Engine stone cold. Saw no measurable change in plunger height...still 9/32.



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