Guide to Repairing a PDK Transmission
#436
yes that’s correct, I am intrigued by the thread on the inside of the shaft and what looks to be some form of nut visible in the hollow centre of the shaft. It could be that the key on the gear is indeed a nut but the whole end section of the shaft unscrews with the gear attached from the main shaft , unfortunately don’t have one I can inspect
also the one on main shaft might be used to connect with front wheel drive.
#437
There are 2 ways you can remove that gear to make way . 1 is if you have an induction tool/heater you can heat that bearing/sleeve just enough and you can slide it out. the 2nd one is on the Gear sprocket there are holes there if i remember correctly 3 hole , you need to make a puller so that you can put pins or a bolt that will anchor on those holes . once you pull it out the gear together with the sleeve comes out the shaft. I have done both ways
#439
The diff is heavy and not comfortable to hold even when trans is out, also putting those seals with limited space is not an easy job, but i clearly see why this way has its attractiveness.
Also that idea of how to refill the oil is simple and great. Did you get any errors from the computer after this method?
I have to do this step in my future and still not ready to part with several thousands for piwis.
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JohnyPorsche1976 (05-08-2021)
#440
Nice, the way you managed to change those seals reminded me of a joke where dentist does his work through the ***. ))
The diff is heavy and not comfortable to hold even when trans is out, also putting those seals with limited space is not an easy job, but i clearly see why this way has its attractiveness.
Also that idea of how to refill the oil is simple and great. Did you get any errors from the computer after this method?
I have to do this step in my future and still not ready to part with several thousands for piwis.
The diff is heavy and not comfortable to hold even when trans is out, also putting those seals with limited space is not an easy job, but i clearly see why this way has its attractiveness.
Also that idea of how to refill the oil is simple and great. Did you get any errors from the computer after this method?
I have to do this step in my future and still not ready to part with several thousands for piwis.
no I have not had any issues or trans codes after I refilled it this way, I'm just battling with a over boost code p0234 now but that unrelated
#441
I really hate Porsche and ZF for their handling of the PDK issues.
#442
P1706
Hello Everyone
I got a Porsche 997 from 2009 with PDK Transmission.
It broke down on the highway, no more movement anymore, not in D or in R.
Scanner gives me the next fault code:
P1706 Sensor Supply voltage 5V Too low
I read the topic, much much good info! I understand and know the location of all sensors. But nothing really about the P1706.
Do i have to search in the TCU, because he is not providing the 5V for the sensors?
When i disconnect the connectors on the gearbox and read the faults, it gives me the faults from all sensors offcourse. So i think the sensors themselves are good? Because i don't get a specific code about distance or pressure sensor?
Or do i get the fault because a sensor has to much resistance and is getting the supply down?
Is there someone who can give me some more info about the fault?
Thanks in advance!
Regards
I got a Porsche 997 from 2009 with PDK Transmission.
It broke down on the highway, no more movement anymore, not in D or in R.
Scanner gives me the next fault code:
P1706 Sensor Supply voltage 5V Too low
I read the topic, much much good info! I understand and know the location of all sensors. But nothing really about the P1706.
Do i have to search in the TCU, because he is not providing the 5V for the sensors?
When i disconnect the connectors on the gearbox and read the faults, it gives me the faults from all sensors offcourse. So i think the sensors themselves are good? Because i don't get a specific code about distance or pressure sensor?
Or do i get the fault because a sensor has to much resistance and is getting the supply down?
Is there someone who can give me some more info about the fault?
Thanks in advance!
Regards
#443
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
James - P1706 isn't the distance sensor but the clutch pressure sensor. Good news is that this part is available from Porsche or ZF, see the section in the main post and Alexey's comment #117. You can measure their resistance at the TCU prior to taking the transmission out. I'll have to lookup the pinouts and will post later today.
UPDATE: Here are the pressure sensor pinouts:
PDK Connector (A connector, closest to engine):
Measurements would be between the sensor pin and the 5V supply pin. The TCU connector is much easier to access as it's located inside the vehicle beneath the rear door. I don't know what the reading of a "good" sensor is but they shouldn't be open (>0.9 MOhms) or shorted (<2 Ohms) according the the Porsche T-shooting document. There are two so you can compare their measurements as a sanity check, since it's very unlikely both went bad.
UPDATE: Here are the pressure sensor pinouts:
PDK Connector (A connector, closest to engine):
- Pressure sensor 1: A11
- Pressure sensor 2: A12
- 5 Volt supply: A13
- Pressure sensor 1: B30
- Pressure sensor 2: B31
- 5 Volt supply: B20
Measurements would be between the sensor pin and the 5V supply pin. The TCU connector is much easier to access as it's located inside the vehicle beneath the rear door. I don't know what the reading of a "good" sensor is but they shouldn't be open (>0.9 MOhms) or shorted (<2 Ohms) according the the Porsche T-shooting document. There are two so you can compare their measurements as a sanity check, since it's very unlikely both went bad.
#444
No problems since last Sept. BUT, Finally made it back to the track this past weekend. Two hour+ trip Friday afternoon to CMP (looking forward to the new pavement). Saturday morning did a few laps under yellow flag, no problems. During my first run 9:45am 60F, about 25 minutes of track time no problems shifting. End of session pulled through paddock and shifted into Rev to back into garage space – No Go. I had no rev gear and knew the problem had returned. Stuck in 1st gear, codes present P17B7 – generic for transmission problems I'm sure. Cleared the codes and hoped some cool down time would allow me to return to the track in the afternoon.
At 2pm cranked it up and headed out to pit lane, seemed to be shifting fine but as soon as I was waved on I hit the gas and no shift, stuck in 1st again. GMP was track side and were nice enough to put there computer on it and pull the overheat codes etc. and also checked the actual temperature of the clutch fluid. Which was well in the normal operating range. Parked the car and cleared the codes.
The car sat overnight and the next morning 55F, I cranked it up and was heading for the gas and air tanks before heading home and now stuck in 2nd gear and CEL comes on. Codes, dual clutch overheat. Crazy, I know, but it has happened before overheated after a quarter mile driving slow in 2nd gear!
Cleared the CEL code and headed home. Hoping not to be stranded on the side of the road. Drove about 90 minutes car shifting correctly. Then ETR white warning hit, a few seconds later the ETR red warning hit then stuck in 6th gear. Back to ETR white but no CEL yet. I kept driving the car as far as possible in 6th but had to pull into a lot once I hit some stopped traffic, nice only 3 miles from home.
Got back to the car about 7 hours later was unable to clear the trans codes but drove it home with no issues.
*Anyone one with this particular problem* If you are stuck in gear and without reverse, I have found that if you want to go in reverse for 10-15 feet, turn off the car, pull the key, lock the car, unlock the car, turn on the key, move selector to neutral, then start the car, shift into reverse. I hope it works for you as it has for me.
Drove the car on Monday up to the indy shop with no issues. Overheat codes still stored in memory which I cleared and then drove home no issues.
What a pain...
I've had no luck finding a used/salvage/reman transmission. Any leads would be appreciated. Dealers are telling me there is only one in the states but double digits in Germany.
At 2pm cranked it up and headed out to pit lane, seemed to be shifting fine but as soon as I was waved on I hit the gas and no shift, stuck in 1st again. GMP was track side and were nice enough to put there computer on it and pull the overheat codes etc. and also checked the actual temperature of the clutch fluid. Which was well in the normal operating range. Parked the car and cleared the codes.
The car sat overnight and the next morning 55F, I cranked it up and was heading for the gas and air tanks before heading home and now stuck in 2nd gear and CEL comes on. Codes, dual clutch overheat. Crazy, I know, but it has happened before overheated after a quarter mile driving slow in 2nd gear!
Cleared the CEL code and headed home. Hoping not to be stranded on the side of the road. Drove about 90 minutes car shifting correctly. Then ETR white warning hit, a few seconds later the ETR red warning hit then stuck in 6th gear. Back to ETR white but no CEL yet. I kept driving the car as far as possible in 6th but had to pull into a lot once I hit some stopped traffic, nice only 3 miles from home.
Got back to the car about 7 hours later was unable to clear the trans codes but drove it home with no issues.
*Anyone one with this particular problem* If you are stuck in gear and without reverse, I have found that if you want to go in reverse for 10-15 feet, turn off the car, pull the key, lock the car, unlock the car, turn on the key, move selector to neutral, then start the car, shift into reverse. I hope it works for you as it has for me.
Drove the car on Monday up to the indy shop with no issues. Overheat codes still stored in memory which I cleared and then drove home no issues.
What a pain...
I've had no luck finding a used/salvage/reman transmission. Any leads would be appreciated. Dealers are telling me there is only one in the states but double digits in Germany.
#445
Hello Everyone
I got a Porsche 997 from 2009 with PDK Transmission.
It broke down on the highway, no more movement anymore, not in D or in R.
Scanner gives me the next fault code:
P1706 Sensor Supply voltage 5V Too low
I read the topic, much much good info! I understand and know the location of all sensors. But nothing really about the P1706.
Do i have to search in the TCU, because he is not providing the 5V for the sensors?
When i disconnect the connectors on the gearbox and read the faults, it gives me the faults from all sensors offcourse. So i think the sensors themselves are good? Because i don't get a specific code about distance or pressure sensor?
Or do i get the fault because a sensor has to much resistance and is getting the supply down?
Is there someone who can give me some more info about the fault?
Thanks in advance!
Regards
I got a Porsche 997 from 2009 with PDK Transmission.
It broke down on the highway, no more movement anymore, not in D or in R.
Scanner gives me the next fault code:
P1706 Sensor Supply voltage 5V Too low
I read the topic, much much good info! I understand and know the location of all sensors. But nothing really about the P1706.
Do i have to search in the TCU, because he is not providing the 5V for the sensors?
When i disconnect the connectors on the gearbox and read the faults, it gives me the faults from all sensors offcourse. So i think the sensors themselves are good? Because i don't get a specific code about distance or pressure sensor?
Or do i get the fault because a sensor has to much resistance and is getting the supply down?
Is there someone who can give me some more info about the fault?
Thanks in advance!
Regards
BTW, have you had PDK clutch oil / gear oil replaced recently or at all?
#446
Yes, all services up to date.
Local dealers have told me there is only one "part" available in the states, but several in Germany.
Part (meaning complete pdk transmission) price quotes range from 17 to 20K, USD.
Local dealers have told me there is only one "part" available in the states, but several in Germany.
Part (meaning complete pdk transmission) price quotes range from 17 to 20K, USD.
#447
#450
not naive
if I knew that releasing this info will force ZF/porsche to sell this part, I would have a 10 page pdf up in 2 hours.
Problem for Porsche is if they start selling the part, they have to have trained technicians to replace it as well… and that ain’t going to happen
if I knew that releasing this info will force ZF/porsche to sell this part, I would have a 10 page pdf up in 2 hours.
Problem for Porsche is if they start selling the part, they have to have trained technicians to replace it as well… and that ain’t going to happen
Fraazz