Guide to Repairing a PDK Transmission
#331
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unfortunately no warranty, this region only two year warranty ,my car three year over,
any possibility repair distance sensor, any repair procedure available please let me know...three month car struck
any possibility repair distance sensor, any repair procedure available please let me know...three month car struck
#332
Three Wheelin'
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Ruperto, that is awesome, great work! Million questions of course, but first off, can you tell what material seals the back of the distance sensor? Is it hard potting (epoxy) or something more pliable? Also, are those four tabs on each side of the distance sensor part of the back seal? My biggest concern is getting the distance sensor open without damaging things inside.
#333
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Has anyone tried an oil cooler? I get the error (gear locks) only after driving 20-30 minutes, or longer on cold days.
https://lnengineering.com/products/b...2-991-911.html
https://lnengineering.com/products/b...2-991-911.html
#334
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Did you buy it from Porsche?
If it were me and I needed the car up and running quickly I would just buy a cheaper used transmission and keep my old one and try to repair it. Then if you repair the old one you could sell it or swap it back in.
It looks like you can get good used 991.1 PDKs for $5-7k and you get to keep your old one...no brainer to me. Its not like the new "refurbished" pdk's that porsche is selling are immune to this issue happening again and the warranty they give you isn't anything special.
I have swapped used transmission in a few of my other cars and have honestly always had good luck. There are tons of cars that get wrecked with low miles and that are otherwise well taken care of and it is extremely hard to damage the trans from a wreck.
I bought a Subaru STI 6 speed transmission from a car that was mangled beyond belief and that thing shifted smoother than my previous brand new WRX trans and held tons of power with no issues.
I also upgraded my AP1 S2000 transmission that was grinding in second to a newer used AP2 trans out of a wrecked car for cheap and it has been excellent.
If it were me and I needed the car up and running quickly I would just buy a cheaper used transmission and keep my old one and try to repair it. Then if you repair the old one you could sell it or swap it back in.
It looks like you can get good used 991.1 PDKs for $5-7k and you get to keep your old one...no brainer to me. Its not like the new "refurbished" pdk's that porsche is selling are immune to this issue happening again and the warranty they give you isn't anything special.
I have swapped used transmission in a few of my other cars and have honestly always had good luck. There are tons of cars that get wrecked with low miles and that are otherwise well taken care of and it is extremely hard to damage the trans from a wreck.
I bought a Subaru STI 6 speed transmission from a car that was mangled beyond belief and that thing shifted smoother than my previous brand new WRX trans and held tons of power with no issues.
I also upgraded my AP1 S2000 transmission that was grinding in second to a newer used AP2 trans out of a wrecked car for cheap and it has been excellent.
my commitment and joy with porsche is gone - i bought a used pdk and build it in - the old one with the p1731 is on sale for 3k !
love it change it leave it - one needs to know when the fight is over - all the best Georg
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subaru335i (10-06-2020)
#335
Three Wheelin'
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Had a chance to digest the comment and photos from Ruperto up in comment #330 and it looks like we can add some info to what we already know:
1) You must remove the covers at the end of the case that cover the driveshaft and the mainshaft. The driveshaft has a large bolt the must be removed, the mainshaft has a large nut. The AWD version will have a longer shaft with a coupling flange whereas the RWD version will have a shorter mainshaft that ends just past the end of the case. Both have the large nut but they are at different locations depending on AWD or RWD.
2) As Ruperto noted you need a puller to separate the shafts from the bearings (which are attached to the end case via a bolted flange). Looks like Ruperto pressed on the mainshaft (lower) while pulling on the end case around both the driveshaft and mainshaft.
3) There's a gasket between the cases that does not use a sealer. Using a puller helps save this gasket as prying isn't needed at the seam. Porsche does not offer this gasket so if it gets damaged you'll have to make a new one from scratch.
4) The distance sensor is held in place with three screws with torx heads. The distance sensor has a small connector at the top so the sensor can be removed without removing the harness.
5) Parking lock and pawl is implemented differently in the 997 (in the main case) vs. the 987 (in the end case) transmission. This may alter the removal/assembly procedure some depending on the car.
6) The end case can likely be pressed back on using the driveshaft bolt and mainshaft nut. Tighten both sequentially to gradually press the shafts back into the bearings simultaneously.
7) Porsche sells replacement caps and seals for the driveshaft/mainshaft if needed.
Unanswered questions:
1) What is the end case bolt torques?
2) What are the mainshaft bolt and driveshaft nut torques?
3) The bearings can be removed from the end case by removing the holding flange once separated. What are the part numbers if replacements are needed?
I'll update this comment as we learn more.
1) You must remove the covers at the end of the case that cover the driveshaft and the mainshaft. The driveshaft has a large bolt the must be removed, the mainshaft has a large nut. The AWD version will have a longer shaft with a coupling flange whereas the RWD version will have a shorter mainshaft that ends just past the end of the case. Both have the large nut but they are at different locations depending on AWD or RWD.
2) As Ruperto noted you need a puller to separate the shafts from the bearings (which are attached to the end case via a bolted flange). Looks like Ruperto pressed on the mainshaft (lower) while pulling on the end case around both the driveshaft and mainshaft.
3) There's a gasket between the cases that does not use a sealer. Using a puller helps save this gasket as prying isn't needed at the seam. Porsche does not offer this gasket so if it gets damaged you'll have to make a new one from scratch.
4) The distance sensor is held in place with three screws with torx heads. The distance sensor has a small connector at the top so the sensor can be removed without removing the harness.
5) Parking lock and pawl is implemented differently in the 997 (in the main case) vs. the 987 (in the end case) transmission. This may alter the removal/assembly procedure some depending on the car.
6) The end case can likely be pressed back on using the driveshaft bolt and mainshaft nut. Tighten both sequentially to gradually press the shafts back into the bearings simultaneously.
7) Porsche sells replacement caps and seals for the driveshaft/mainshaft if needed.
Unanswered questions:
1) What is the end case bolt torques?
2) What are the mainshaft bolt and driveshaft nut torques?
3) The bearings can be removed from the end case by removing the holding flange once separated. What are the part numbers if replacements are needed?
I'll update this comment as we learn more.
#336
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Another 6 hour plus round trip, highway/back road tour with no codes. Wondering if the gear oil was actually overheating prematurely. And therefore cascaded the series of codes. Presently, the new oil seems to be helping, even if it's a placebo. Possible track test in Nov. Stay tuned.
Thanks for the continued PDK dissection!
Thanks for the continued PDK dissection!
#339
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I can see that you have accepted my req but I am unable to Private Message you for i do not know what reason.. is it because my account is too new? or maybe you can try to PM me instead ..
#340
Three Wheelin'
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Edit: Not sure what's the issue with PMs so I set up a new email account you can use to contact me. It's pv997 at mail dot com (mail.com not gmail). Once you email I'll reply from my regular email account. Didn't want to post that here due to spam.
Last edited by PV997; 10-20-2020 at 10:44 AM.
#341
Three Wheelin'
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Bumping this.
Not sure what's the issue with PMs so I set up a new email account you can use to contact me. It's pv997 at mail dot com (mail.com not gmail). Once you email I'll reply from my regular email account. Didn't want to post that here due to spam.
Not sure what's the issue with PMs so I set up a new email account you can use to contact me. It's pv997 at mail dot com (mail.com not gmail). Once you email I'll reply from my regular email account. Didn't want to post that here due to spam.
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subaru335i (10-22-2020)
#342
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Hey guys the high resolution photo of the open PDK was taken by me at my shop, we successfully were able to replace the sensor and repair the transmission. if anyone needs information on this repair or testing you can direct message me here, or on Instagram at "wstanek".
lates,
Wesley Stanek
lates,
Wesley Stanek
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#343
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Hey guys the high resolution photo of the open PDK was taken by me at my shop, we successfully were able to replace the sensor and repair the transmission. if anyone needs information on this repair or testing you can direct message me here, or on Instagram at "wstanek".
lates,
Wesley Stanek
lates,
Wesley Stanek
#344
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Hi all - been experiencing intermittent PDK emergency run errors that puts the car in neutral for the past 5.5 years (always go away immediately after cycling the car with zero issues in drivability). Over the past month, they seemed to happen more frequently. On Friday, I received 2 errors in a row and then a CEL after cycling car the 3rd time. From the limited drive back to my garage (less than a mile), the car seemed to drive fine with the CEL. Trying to find time this week to get it scanned with a PIWIS to see what the codes are. My race team owner in Atlanta has told me that he doesn't mind cracking open the trans if it comes to it.
Does anyone know if any sensors people are having trouble getting their hands are available through Porsche Motorsports? I know a lot of the club racers use 1st gen PDK, and the GT4 Clubsport has been using PDK. May be worth checking parts number against motorsports available parts?
Does anyone know if any sensors people are having trouble getting their hands are available through Porsche Motorsports? I know a lot of the club racers use 1st gen PDK, and the GT4 Clubsport has been using PDK. May be worth checking parts number against motorsports available parts?
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#345
Three Wheelin'
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Excellent, excellent writeup ! Just shows knowledge is the fundamental basis of everything. Without it, everything becomes a mystery and fraudulent kicks in.