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Oh. So it seems that the only usb port which actually really charges is the 5v non-data port ... Not much point in using android auto then if it will only charge at a stupidly slow rate that discharges faster than charges. A bit frustrating.
On the Android Auto, I read recently that there's a wireless version out. Try to Google it.
Oh. So it seems that the only usb port which actually really charges is the 5v non-data port ... Not much point in using android auto then if it will only charge at a stupidly slow rate that discharges faster than charges. A bit frustrating.
I could see if you were an Iphone guy, and wanted to run IOS apps using Carplay, but I don't really see much point of using Android Auto on an Android HU. You can install all the apps you use directly to the HU. Using Android Auto on an Android HU, is about the same as mirroring Netflix, Youtube, etc., onto my TV, even though I already have a Roku box, as well as a Smart TV. Or if Apple made a HU(that allowed installation of IOS apps), and using Carplay with it. Or mirroring your Iphone onto your Ipad.
I could see if you were an Iphone guy, and wanted to run IOS apps using Carplay, but I don't really see much point of using Android Auto on an Android HU. You can install all the apps you use directly to the HU. Using Android Auto on an Android HU, is about the same as mirroring Netflix, Youtube, etc., onto my TV, even though I already have a Roku box, as well as a Smart TV. Or if Apple made a HU(that allowed installation of IOS apps), and using Carplay with it. Or mirroring your Iphone onto your Ipad.
yeah i guess you have a point. i was just thinking from the perspective of keeping everything "as you expect" no matter if me or the missus gets in the car
ie own spotify accounts etc.
also from past experience with head units/tablets/phones they date and get slow as updates progress. using AA would take away that, give the unit a bit more life given that all it would be doing would be blasting the phones display on the screen.
I had a couple of aluminium pieces made that hold the HU in place. Details are somewhere in the thread.
Others drilled a small hole and fixed with a screw. Again, details in thread.
Making space is a bit tricky as the surplus cables, plugs, connectors, lumps need to sit behind the HU. There's space behind and below, i.e. behind the ventilation controls as well as behind and above. I tied lengths of string to the bits I wanted to position in the various spaces and fed the ends of the strings out through the adjacent openings to the sides of the HU housing. Then, as the HU is slid into position, gently tug the various strings to coax the 'bits' into their final positions. That also applies to things like the USB cables and reverse camera cables where I wanted them to exit high up and to the glovebox side for the USBs installation into the glovebox and camera cables to continue, behind glovebox along the pass side to rear.
thanks for your reply. i saw your alu bits, but wasn't sure how exactly that would 'hold it in' .. doesnt it just mean that the unit can slide in the bracket things at the back?
man this is a faff to fit lol
thanks for your reply. i saw your alu bits, but wasn't sure how exactly that would 'hold it in' .. doesnt it just mean that the unit can slide in the bracket things at the back?
man this is a faff to fit lol
The ali bits support the HU very well and surprisingly tight, better than I expected. If you find my post with pics there's a comparison between the depths of the OE and PX6. The rear folded metal tabs don't go anywhere near the rear support hence, it just flops forwards. The 7mm side screw can also be used for extra security but it's not enough on its own.
The ali bits support the HU very well and surprisingly tight, better than I expected. If you find my post with pics there's a comparison between the depths of the OE and PX6. The rear folded metal tabs don't go anywhere near the rear support hence, it just flops forwards. The 7mm side screw can also be used for extra security but it's not enough on its own.
ok cool. did you note the dimensions of the alu blocks? and what location on the unit.
i think it would be easier if i just 3d print them.
Last edited by thefunkygibbon; 09-09-2020 at 09:34 AM.
also from past experience with head units/tablets/phones they date and get slow as updates progress. using AA would take away that, give the unit a bit more life given that all it would be doing would be blasting the phones display on the screen.
I haven't seen head units get slower as they age. Now if you mess around and buy a head unit with less than 2 gig of RAM, you will see it get slower, but that is going to happen relatively quickly, especially if you do like I do and download almost all of my Spotify playlists. Also, there might be updates for your apps, but the head units don't do OTA Operating System updates. If you want to update the OS, it will have to be through a firmware update, using an SD card, and most times, that isn't even possible unless you root it. Sometimes it isn't even possible to upgrade the OS with a root, because of the chipset and/or firmware version used in the HU. XDA developers website is a good source to find that sort of information though. That same site might also have a solution for your AA not working.
In regards to it being the same if your missus uses your car? Not much different than if you let your wife use your phone. She would have to log in to her accounts when she used it. I am not married, but when married, my wife didn't use my car, or my phone. She had her own car and phone.
What is the wire gauge for the iso harness on the unit? I want to get some of the nice T-taps and I want to make sure they fit the correct gauge for it.
what are people doing with error/fault codes that the cars now throw up? I did a scan of codes yesterday and a bunch of modules now have faults and looking at them they all seem to be "PCM" related, which is understandable given that there isn't a PCM anymore. Any way of repressing them, maybe using durametric etc?
what are people doing with error/fault codes that the cars now throw up? I did a scan of codes yesterday and a bunch of modules now have faults and looking at them they all seem to be "PCM" related, which is understandable given that there isn't a PCM anymore. Any way of repressing them, maybe using durametric etc?
The only fault code I needed to contend with was the airbag light where I'd disconnected the Passenger a/b switch. My local indie cleared it with Durametric.
09-08-2020, 07:17 PM
