PSE Install - To Button or Not to Button?
#16
Last month, I installed Sharkwerk x-pipe and PSE w/ remote control from Carnewal ( easy install) . Keeping original exhaust parts and plan to return to stock before selling car. X-pipe and PSE to be sold for approx. 50% of original price. I like to sell my Porsches as close to stock as possible.
Drive with PSE loud approx. 90% of the time but nice to have option to run quite when needed. Sound reminds me of my Porsche 993..Great
Drive with PSE loud approx. 90% of the time but nice to have option to run quite when needed. Sound reminds me of my Porsche 993..Great
#17
Three Wheelin'
I have researched this enough to put in my .02.
Cheap = Fister + sharkwerks center delete = sounds how the car probably would've sounded without all the excessive rules limiting sound.
Expensive = Akrapovic = straight pornographic on the 997.2 carreras and GT cars.
I wouldn't spend a bunch on PSE personally. I have thought about it a lot. At this point, I feel if you go expensive, you might as well go for a high end exhaust that sounds amazing and that is lighter + at least claims a HP/TQ gain. I ended up going with the fisters because I had a laundry list of things I felt needed addressing to get a C2S to be where it should be from the dealer.
This is just my opinion and I have no premises to back up this claim that would make my opinion more compelling than anyone else's. My claims are just made based on what my own ears have led me to think.
Cheap = Fister + sharkwerks center delete = sounds how the car probably would've sounded without all the excessive rules limiting sound.
Expensive = Akrapovic = straight pornographic on the 997.2 carreras and GT cars.
I wouldn't spend a bunch on PSE personally. I have thought about it a lot. At this point, I feel if you go expensive, you might as well go for a high end exhaust that sounds amazing and that is lighter + at least claims a HP/TQ gain. I ended up going with the fisters because I had a laundry list of things I felt needed addressing to get a C2S to be where it should be from the dealer.
This is just my opinion and I have no premises to back up this claim that would make my opinion more compelling than anyone else's. My claims are just made based on what my own ears have led me to think.
Last edited by jamesinger; 05-09-2019 at 07:49 PM. Reason: typo
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911Stalker (07-15-2020)
#18
I have an '07 C2. Disconnected the orange plug on the right side of the engine, thus enabling full-time PSE. Sounds glorious all the time. Here's a thread showing how:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...port-mode.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...port-mode.html
#19
Nordschleife Master
That is what I was thinking..until people mentioned the fact it might look bad for next buyer that I cheaped out and dQuoteidn't put the button in LOL..but really its not the main factor, it really is what you said in that I don't think I ever would want it off! And as others also mentioned, maybe you shouldn't do stuff to the car always with the next buyer in mind, as this car I will have for awhile and maybe should just do what I want, not worrying about resale down the road.
#20
Nordschleife Master
I have an '07 C2. Disconnected the orange plug on the right side of the engine, thus enabling full-time PSE. Sounds glorious all the time. Here's a thread showing how:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...port-mode.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...port-mode.html
#21
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Cairns, North Queensland, Australia
Posts: 422
Received 174 Likes
on
103 Posts
My order of cumulative exhaust mods for 997.2 C2S MT.
1. Installed standard PSE side cans from a wreck, not hooked up to any control system, open full time. Mild difference, but good.
2. Installed Top Gear crossover/center muffler delete pipe. Yes, sounding better, much better. Gets a scream going at high rpm and the trailing throttle burble is back!
3. Installed Fabspeed 200 cell cat headers. Fruity and tuneful accelerating from lower rpm, pleasantly noticeable at steady cruise rpm. Holy mother of god it's loud from about 4500 rpm even with the flaps closed.
Discussion.
I have hooked up to the vacuum network, drawing from the airbox flap leg of the system, upstream from the vac solenoid, like in the factory diagram, including the little one way valve.
When the vac hose is connected, the exhaust flaps are closed (quiet mode) at all times. When I disconnect the hose, and plug the vacuum source, the exhaust flaps are in the always open condition.
There is an issue, it only happened after fitment of the Fabspeed headers, up around 5500 rpm sports mode, there is now so much exhaust gas flow, that the exhaust flaps are forced open against the resistance of the vacuum system which is supposed to keep the PSE flaps closed. Obnoxious loud.
Flaps re-close after backing off.
System control power, I sourced a 12v solenoid valve and a 12v latching relay with fob remote to control the exhaust flaps, and I have tested the system as operational in the garage using long fly leads all the way to the main battery as a power source.
I first considered using a switched power source from the engine compartment, but the only guaranteed switched source (not an output from any chassis or engine control module) is for the four Oxygen Lambda sensor element supplies.
The idea seemed straightforward, however, on further deliberation, i didn't like the idea of placing the 12v remote latching relay in the engine bay, or tapping into any vital engine management circuits. The alternative, is to source power from the fuse panel, keep the latching relay inside the cabin and run a cased twin out to the vac control solenoid. I'll use one of those nifty little tapping fuse units. Just haven't gone about finding a viable penetration of the firewall.
The fun goes on.
1. Installed standard PSE side cans from a wreck, not hooked up to any control system, open full time. Mild difference, but good.
2. Installed Top Gear crossover/center muffler delete pipe. Yes, sounding better, much better. Gets a scream going at high rpm and the trailing throttle burble is back!
3. Installed Fabspeed 200 cell cat headers. Fruity and tuneful accelerating from lower rpm, pleasantly noticeable at steady cruise rpm. Holy mother of god it's loud from about 4500 rpm even with the flaps closed.
Discussion.
I have hooked up to the vacuum network, drawing from the airbox flap leg of the system, upstream from the vac solenoid, like in the factory diagram, including the little one way valve.
When the vac hose is connected, the exhaust flaps are closed (quiet mode) at all times. When I disconnect the hose, and plug the vacuum source, the exhaust flaps are in the always open condition.
There is an issue, it only happened after fitment of the Fabspeed headers, up around 5500 rpm sports mode, there is now so much exhaust gas flow, that the exhaust flaps are forced open against the resistance of the vacuum system which is supposed to keep the PSE flaps closed. Obnoxious loud.
Flaps re-close after backing off.
System control power, I sourced a 12v solenoid valve and a 12v latching relay with fob remote to control the exhaust flaps, and I have tested the system as operational in the garage using long fly leads all the way to the main battery as a power source.
I first considered using a switched power source from the engine compartment, but the only guaranteed switched source (not an output from any chassis or engine control module) is for the four Oxygen Lambda sensor element supplies.
The idea seemed straightforward, however, on further deliberation, i didn't like the idea of placing the 12v remote latching relay in the engine bay, or tapping into any vital engine management circuits. The alternative, is to source power from the fuse panel, keep the latching relay inside the cabin and run a cased twin out to the vac control solenoid. I'll use one of those nifty little tapping fuse units. Just haven't gone about finding a viable penetration of the firewall.
The fun goes on.
The following users liked this post:
911Stalker (07-15-2020)
#22
My order of cumulative exhaust mods for 997.2 C2S MT.
1. Installed standard PSE side cans from a wreck, not hooked up to any control system, open full time. Mild difference, but good.
2. Installed Top Gear crossover/center muffler delete pipe. Yes, sounding better, much better. Gets a scream going at high rpm and the trailing throttle burble is back!
3. Installed Fabspeed 200 cell cat headers. Fruity and tuneful accelerating from lower rpm, pleasantly noticeable at steady cruise rpm. Holy mother of god it's loud from about 4500 rpm even with the flaps closed.
Discussion.
I have hooked up to the vacuum network, drawing from the airbox flap leg of the system, upstream from the vac solenoid, like in the factory diagram, including the little one way valve.
When the vac hose is connected, the exhaust flaps are closed (quiet mode) at all times. When I disconnect the hose, and plug the vacuum source, the exhaust flaps are in the always open condition.
There is an issue, it only happened after fitment of the Fabspeed headers, up around 5500 rpm sports mode, there is now so much exhaust gas flow, that the exhaust flaps are forced open against the resistance of the vacuum system which is supposed to keep the PSE flaps closed. Obnoxious loud.
Flaps re-close after backing off.
System control power, I sourced a 12v solenoid valve and a 12v latching relay with fob remote to control the exhaust flaps, and I have tested the system as operational in the garage using long fly leads all the way to the main battery as a power source.
I first considered using a switched power source from the engine compartment, but the only guaranteed switched source (not an output from any chassis or engine control module) is for the four Oxygen Lambda sensor element supplies.
The idea seemed straightforward, however, on further deliberation, i didn't like the idea of placing the 12v remote latching relay in the engine bay, or tapping into any vital engine management circuits. The alternative, is to source power from the fuse panel, keep the latching relay inside the cabin and run a cased twin out to the vac control solenoid. I'll use one of those nifty little tapping fuse units. Just haven't gone about finding a viable penetration of the firewall.
The fun goes on.
1. Installed standard PSE side cans from a wreck, not hooked up to any control system, open full time. Mild difference, but good.
2. Installed Top Gear crossover/center muffler delete pipe. Yes, sounding better, much better. Gets a scream going at high rpm and the trailing throttle burble is back!
3. Installed Fabspeed 200 cell cat headers. Fruity and tuneful accelerating from lower rpm, pleasantly noticeable at steady cruise rpm. Holy mother of god it's loud from about 4500 rpm even with the flaps closed.
Discussion.
I have hooked up to the vacuum network, drawing from the airbox flap leg of the system, upstream from the vac solenoid, like in the factory diagram, including the little one way valve.
When the vac hose is connected, the exhaust flaps are closed (quiet mode) at all times. When I disconnect the hose, and plug the vacuum source, the exhaust flaps are in the always open condition.
There is an issue, it only happened after fitment of the Fabspeed headers, up around 5500 rpm sports mode, there is now so much exhaust gas flow, that the exhaust flaps are forced open against the resistance of the vacuum system which is supposed to keep the PSE flaps closed. Obnoxious loud.
Flaps re-close after backing off.
System control power, I sourced a 12v solenoid valve and a 12v latching relay with fob remote to control the exhaust flaps, and I have tested the system as operational in the garage using long fly leads all the way to the main battery as a power source.
I first considered using a switched power source from the engine compartment, but the only guaranteed switched source (not an output from any chassis or engine control module) is for the four Oxygen Lambda sensor element supplies.
The idea seemed straightforward, however, on further deliberation, i didn't like the idea of placing the 12v remote latching relay in the engine bay, or tapping into any vital engine management circuits. The alternative, is to source power from the fuse panel, keep the latching relay inside the cabin and run a cased twin out to the vac control solenoid. I'll use one of those nifty little tapping fuse units. Just haven't gone about finding a viable penetration of the firewall.
The fun goes on.