Porsche 997.2 GTS Engine Ticking Noise on Idle
#21
Racer
Speculating on the percentage of 997s that might have suffered, or might suffer bore scoring is a frequent topic on Rennlist and a question that there is no real answer. It well may be a very low number. That said, I believe that a disproportionate percentage of 997s *for sale* are likely to have this problem. These cars run great throughout any development of scoring despite with some seemingly minor annoyances. When this problem is discovered, the shock of the financial hit is pretty great -- I know from personal experience. Therefore, I think that many owners, discovering that they might, or do have scoring, simply dump their car on the market, either by trading it in somewhere that does not check the bores, or by selling it direct to a consumer. I know when my car was so diagnosed, several people strongly recommended that I take this sort of action. But God has rules.
I believe there is a *far higher* percentage of bore-scored 997s *for sale* at this point than the percentage of cars that might score or have scored will ever be. Caveat Emptor!
However, there is life after death. My car after its rebuild has a far more reliable engine with many, many added miles to its life, and it is a real joy to drive every day. Like anything else, the longer you keep something, the lower the real amortized cost is. Also, I cannot have IMS failure. I probably won't need a new clutch for another 100,000 miles. My AOS is brand new. My water pump is brand new. My coolant tank is brand new. The car starts easily, even when it is hot. I have more power and more torque than when brand new. My chain tensioner is superior to OEM and my chains and chain guides are brand new. The nikasil bores are nearly bulletproof. Etc., Etc. Most of these other issues are expensive routine maintenance in higher mileage (i.e., used) cars that will have to be done eventually, anyway. A significant percentage of the cost of rebuilding the engine can easily be justified as "prepaid" major maintenance. And at that point, you are essentially starting with a new car.
I believe there is a *far higher* percentage of bore-scored 997s *for sale* at this point than the percentage of cars that might score or have scored will ever be. Caveat Emptor!
However, there is life after death. My car after its rebuild has a far more reliable engine with many, many added miles to its life, and it is a real joy to drive every day. Like anything else, the longer you keep something, the lower the real amortized cost is. Also, I cannot have IMS failure. I probably won't need a new clutch for another 100,000 miles. My AOS is brand new. My water pump is brand new. My coolant tank is brand new. The car starts easily, even when it is hot. I have more power and more torque than when brand new. My chain tensioner is superior to OEM and my chains and chain guides are brand new. The nikasil bores are nearly bulletproof. Etc., Etc. Most of these other issues are expensive routine maintenance in higher mileage (i.e., used) cars that will have to be done eventually, anyway. A significant percentage of the cost of rebuilding the engine can easily be justified as "prepaid" major maintenance. And at that point, you are essentially starting with a new car.
Last edited by JustinCase; 05-03-2019 at 01:34 PM.
#22
Three Wheelin'
When I read the thread title I figured this was just hysteria after Bronz's car and it was likely chain tensioners or something simple. Having two 997.2 with scoring in two months seems highly improbable. (And I thought Jake's bedside manner was a little rough. Sorry Jake :-).
But yuk, that does not sounds good. Tensioners are more of a brief clatter at startup. This is rhythmic. I was next to an old Boxster the other day at a stop light that sounded like that. I didn't have the heart to tell the guy.
Has it also been burning a lot of oil, or have you not had it long enough to notice?
If this does turn out to be bore scoring, you need to have some words with whomever you bought it from. I would get an oil analysis. The prior owner might have tried putting thicker oil in it to reduce the noise before selling it. The pros on here can tell you if that works but I suspect it might. If it does have thicker weight you have proof they tried to hide it from you.
Stay positive and attack the problem. Lets hope for the best.
But yuk, that does not sounds good. Tensioners are more of a brief clatter at startup. This is rhythmic. I was next to an old Boxster the other day at a stop light that sounded like that. I didn't have the heart to tell the guy.
Has it also been burning a lot of oil, or have you not had it long enough to notice?
If this does turn out to be bore scoring, you need to have some words with whomever you bought it from. I would get an oil analysis. The prior owner might have tried putting thicker oil in it to reduce the noise before selling it. The pros on here can tell you if that works but I suspect it might. If it does have thicker weight you have proof they tried to hide it from you.
Stay positive and attack the problem. Lets hope for the best.
#23
Rennlist Member
If the oil in your engine hasn’t been changed yet, perhaps there’s a way to find out if anything had been added? Would an oil sample reveal that?
#24
#27
Instructor
does it make this sound when it's warmed up?
If it helps, my 997.2 makes a ticking noise from the lower passenger side at idle (different than the DI injector pulsing noise), goes away once the engine has a little heat in it. Checked my neighbors 997.2 (same year), also does this. I'll assume its a lifter noise, but not an expert. My 993 3.6 engine did the very same thing, assumed it was the hydraulic lifters.
If it helps, my 997.2 makes a ticking noise from the lower passenger side at idle (different than the DI injector pulsing noise), goes away once the engine has a little heat in it. Checked my neighbors 997.2 (same year), also does this. I'll assume its a lifter noise, but not an expert. My 993 3.6 engine did the very same thing, assumed it was the hydraulic lifters.
#28
Rennlist Member
does it make this sound when it's warmed up?
If it helps, my 997.2 makes a ticking noise from the lower passenger side at idle (different than the DI injector pulsing noise), goes away once the engine has a little heat in it. Checked my neighbors 997.2 (same year), also does this. I'll assume its a lifter noise, but not an expert. My 993 3.6 engine did the very same thing, assumed it was the hydraulic lifters.
If it helps, my 997.2 makes a ticking noise from the lower passenger side at idle (different than the DI injector pulsing noise), goes away once the engine has a little heat in it. Checked my neighbors 997.2 (same year), also does this. I'll assume its a lifter noise, but not an expert. My 993 3.6 engine did the very same thing, assumed it was the hydraulic lifters.
#30
Rennlist Member
So that might be why. I would try driving off immediately, yet slowly and moderately, keeping revs between 2,000-3,000 during warmup and not using more than 10% throttle (drive like a grandma). Then report back if it knocking when you are driving it.
My car knocks if I let it idle. I suspect the knocking is mostly likely the piston hitting the bore and lack of lubrication at very low engine speeds where oil flow is also very low. It could also be catalytic converters or mufflers, but the manual says to drive immediately, and I think there’s good reason for that.
My car knocks if I let it idle. I suspect the knocking is mostly likely the piston hitting the bore and lack of lubrication at very low engine speeds where oil flow is also very low. It could also be catalytic converters or mufflers, but the manual says to drive immediately, and I think there’s good reason for that.